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Retrofit lighting control solution

I'm looking for a low cost retrofit solution to implement a lighting control for my demo system (I have a NI4000).

Obviously, installing cables in existing walls is the issue.

Anybody ever used Leviton Vizia-RF? Other systems?
Comments and recommendation are welcome.

Comments

  • DHawthorneDHawthorne Posts: 4,584
    The only thing "low cost" I'm aware of is something like an X-10 based system. The computer interface is RS-232 controlled, and there is a thread buried in here someplace with a rudimentary module ... but, at best, X-10 is a bit flaky. You can get X-10 stuff at www.smarthome.com . AMX used to have an Axlink box for it, but it has long been discontinued. Any other retrofit lighting control I have seen has been rather on the pricey side.
  • viningvining Posts: 4,368
    UPB which is another power line carrier device like X10 (uses existing 120v power distribution lines) is an easy retrofit and also controlable with a RS232 interface which is reasonably priced. UPBs are much morereliable than X10 and around the same cost give or take. Somebody on the forum was working with it several month ago so you might do a search for that thread and find out our they made out. I'd actually like to get into these on smaller jobs where I can't sell HomeWorks or on jobs where HomeWorks just doesn't make sense for the small scale of control needed. They say they are 99.9% reliable.
  • Pep_SDPep_SD Posts: 106
    Dave and Vining, thank you for the info - after I found a few post about X10 (which seems pretty touchy if you want it right), I'm going to have a look at UPB.
  • GSLogicGSLogic Posts: 562
    UPB is VERY reliable. I've had it in my home for over two years and has worked 100% of the time... unless the power goes out. :)
  • TurnipTruckTurnipTruck Posts: 1,485
    UPB is an excellent product. It is a two-way system using the powerline for communications. The serial protocol is quite complicated, but very robust once you understand the larger scope of how the system works. Both GS Logic and myself have commercially-available modules for use with UPB.

    With UPB, you must have a neutral available at each switch.

    The only things that I have found to interfere with UPB communications are electronic fluorescent ballsts and variable speed motor drives. Filter networks can help in these situations.

    I would strongy advise that you use the PCS brand dimmers with their newly-released "G2" firmware. It is MUCH more noise immune than previous PCS devices and UPB devices made by other manufacturers. Further I have had some very big problems with non-PCS brand devices being very sensitive to powerline spikes.
  • viningvining Posts: 4,368
    TurnipTruck wrote:
    Both GS Logic and myself have commercially-available modules for use with UPB.
    So which module is better yours or Gary's? Does this come open or sealed (.axs or .tko). What's the $$? If .tko, is it single use or multiple usage? I would be interested the the .axs variety so I can play if the $$ is right.
  • TurnipTruckTurnipTruck Posts: 1,485
    vining wrote:
    TurnipTruck wrote:

    So which module is better yours or Gary's?

    I can't speak for Gary's. He did send me a demo of it that I took a quick look at. It seemed quite polished and I have no reason to beleive that it would not live up to its promises. He had a UI with it as well.

    Mine is a very elaborate comm module with no UI. Without getting into the whole inner working of UPB, the dimmers can be controlled by a direct-type command or broadcast (UPB link) commands. In the case of broadcast commands, no feedback would be available. Much of the work I put into my system is creating accurate feedback regardless of the mode of control. My module allows you to configure the UPB system at will with the manufacturer-provided UPB Upstart software. One you're done, you reboot the AMX, it polls all the dimmers for config info and bases feedbacks on what it finds.

    I have not sold it as a module to other programmers to this point. I have sold it into my own systems and those I write for other dealers. I've sold it for resale for $400 ($399.99 if you watched 60 minutes last night) and MSRP'ed it for $700. I put it out sealed, basing its operation on the serial number of the master.
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