NI-3101-SIG Serial Ports Failing
TurnipTruck
Posts: 1,485
in AMX Hardware
The serial ports on my 3101 are failing. Does the 3101 have the same capacitor issue as the other NIs? If so, do you know which cap?
Thanks.
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Thanks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
0
Comments
Double check your PSU.
I moved the serial devices to an NI-4100 on the same power supply and they are working normally.
There is one master power supply that powers many devices. I will try isolating the 3101 on its own supply and see what happens.
Thanks.
I know one of the pins (RX or TX) should idle at the negative voltage; I’m pretty sure it’s RX.
If you're not getting that then I think it's a sign that the port is dead.
The rs232 spec requires from -5 to -15 vdc. That voltage should appear between the transmit pin (#3 on an AMX DB9) and ground (pin 5). AMX ports that I have measured seem to come out quite well: -9.5 vdc or so.
Interesting fact: masters with bad caps can still be used either RS422 or RS485. The first of these we encountered had us going for a while because everything but the Sony EVID70 cameras (RS422) quit.
Cool. Will test for this today. Thanks.
In my case I am showing a positive 13 volts between 3 and 5. (Negative test lead on 5)
Picture attached.
At least it looks like an easy one to replace ... though I admit I'm troubled by the trend with AMX masters having caps that dry out.
It does seem to be too much of a trend for a manufacture of "Mission Critical Components" not to nip in the bud and put an end to.
I am sick and tired of selling high dollar "best in class" reliable equipment from manufacturers (not just AMX) that fail, have known firmware issues which exist for years, and simply don't live up to the manufacturers stated features. How many times do I have to say, "Sorry sir. We engineered, planned, installed, and programmed everything the best way possible. But equipment fails and needs to be fixed." or "The manufacturer just discovered a couple problems and they are issuing new firmware to fix it" or "sorry. The product was released with a fully functional firmware, but they will enable those features in a future firmware update".
It's pathetic. Nothing works, and the installing companies are on the hook for it with zero help from the manufacturers and their under performing QA departments.
-- rant off, but I don't feel better yet
For many people (and companies) solving a problem means admitting that there is a problem. Not always so easy to do.
To remove the surface mount one without the proper tooling, gently rock it back and forth perpendicular to its two solder pads. The solder will eventually break and free up the cap. Bend the legs of the new cap into a T-configuration and resolder over the pads. I used a cap rated at 105 degrees Celsius as as added protection against future failure.
This was my 3rd time replacing a cap in masters and this time wasn't the charm, the first two were fairly easy but this one really sucked and looks like crap. Fortunately this is now my shop 3100 since I used our 3100 to replace this one to avoid replacing the cap in the field.
Man, I can't agree with this more especially as far as reliability and QC. AMX doesn't have my confidence these days, that's for sure.
Paul
Replacing the cap with another electrolytic will see the same problem occur again in the future.
The more permanent fix involves soldering a surface mount resistor and capacitor in series to replace the failed capacitor.
The faulty cap is C155 in the NI-x000 and early series NI-x100 masters or C206 in later series NI-x100 masters.
The parts required are;
• 6.8 Ohm resistor, 1206 package, 0.25W, 5% or less
• 10uF 50V capacitor. 1210 package, 20% or less
The resistor is soldered on the positive (+) terminal and the capacitor on the negative (-) terminal.
The capacitor and resistor are soldered together in a v to allow them to fit between the pads.
Where did you get this fix? I am skeptical. Unless we are dealing with high levels of current, I don't see how 6.8 ohms of resistance would affect the operation of the circuit in question.
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No worries.
I got this from the horses mouth, so to speak.
I've been using it for some months now and had no issues, too early to tell for long term reliability.
I think the fact that the electrolytic is replaced with a ceramic is the key. A ceramic can't dry up of course.
Maybe the resistor is there to change the impedance to suit the remaining circuitry?