i got a drpa and am confused..

defumed

hello i just bought a drpa and not sure what the hell im doin.. here is what i have..
(2) B-52 mx1515
(1) 15\" kappa pro 15lf in avatar box
crown xls 602
carvin dcm1000

trying to figure out how to set up this rig.. if anyone has any ideas for me that would be great... also should i get that RTA-M Mic.. would it help.. should i spend the cash to get it..

here are the specs for the speakers and powers...
B-52 MX1515

SPECIFICATIONS
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms
Frequency Response: 40-19k hz
High-Freq. Dispersion: 90 x 40
X-Over Points: 1.6k hz
Power Handling: 600 watts
SPL @ 1w1m: 99 db
Peak SPL: 130 db
Dimensions (W�x H� x D�): 19x45x18
Weight (lbs): 98 lbs


Avatar Cab with Eminence Kappa Pro LF 15

SPECIFICATION
Nominal Basket Diameter 15\", 381mm
Nominal Impedance* 8 ohms
Power Rating watts 600W
Music Program 1200W
Resonance 35Hz
Usable Frequency Range 38Hz-1.8kHz
Sensitivity*** 97.8
Magnet Weight 120 oz.
Gap Height 0.375\", 9.53mm
Voice Coil Diameter 3\", 76.2mm

THIELE & SMALL PARAMETERS
Resonant Frequency (fs) 35Hz
DC Resistance (Re) 6.5
Coil Inductance (Le) 1.40mH
Mechanical Q (Qms) 7.3
Electromagnetic Q (Qes) 0.32
Total Q (Qts) .30
Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas) 198.8 liters / 7.0 cu. ft.
Peak Diaphragm Displacement Volume (Vd) 507cc
Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms) 0.20mm/N
BL Product (BL) 21.6 T-M
Diaphram Mass inc. Airload (Mms) 102 grams
Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) 112
Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax) 6.7mm
Surface Area of Cone (Sd) 856.3cm2
Maximum Mechanical Limit (Xlim) 18.0mm


Crown XLS 602


XLS 602 Specifications: 2-ohm Stereo (per channel) 840W
4-ohm Stereo (per channel) 600W
8-ohm Stereo (per channel) 370W
8-ohm Bridge-Mono 1,200W
4-ohm Bridge-Mono 1,680W

Performance Sensitivity (volts RMS) for full rated power at 4 ohms,
XLS-202 0.725
XLS-402 1.025
XLS-602 1.26.
Frequency Response (at 1 watt) 20 Hz to 20 kHz 0.75 dB.
Phase Response (degrees at 1 watt)
at 10 Hz 10.
at 20 kHz +19.
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (20 Hz to 20 kHz)
A-weighted, below rated power > 100 dB.
No weighting, below rated power > 95 dB.
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) at full bandwidth power, from 20 Hz to 1 kHz < 0.5%.
Intermodulation Distortion (IMD) (60 Hz and 7 kHz at 4:1) from full rated output to 40 dB < 0.3%.
Damping Factor (8 ohm) 10 Hz to 400 Hz >200.
Crosstalk (below rated power)
at 1 kHz 82 dB.
at 20 kHz 58 dB.
Voltage Gain (at maximum output) 31 dB.


Carvin DCM1000

HT POWER AMP SPECIFICATIONS:
MODEL DCM1000
Bridged RMS Continuous
4½, (20-20k Hz, <1.0%) 1000w
8½, (20-20k Hz, <1.0%) 700w
Both Channels RMS Continuous
2½ (20-20k Hz, <1.0%) 500/500w
4½ (20-20k Hz, <1.0%) 350/350w
8½ (20-20k Hz, <1.0%) 225/225w
THD (Typical—1/2 power): 0.03%
Damping Factor: >400
Slew Rate: bridged mode >45v/µs
Sensitivity: (4½, Vms) 1.0 V
Signal to Noise Ratio: Above 100dB
Frequency Response: 20 Hz to 20kHz
(10 Hz & 40 kHz)
Input Impedance: >20K ½, balanced

Dra

It appears that you have 4) 15\" in your tops and 1) 15\" for your sub. That is kind of a lose - lose situation. What are you \"wanting\" to do?

DRA

kpippen

Hello defumed,

I used the DR260 DriveWare Wizard to configure a custom starting point... I recommend that you click here and download the DriveWare GUI... Play around with the DriveWare and get yourself familiar with it... These settings should work...but you will need to key them manually with the DRPA... I would read the DRPA manual but it's assumed that the user has prior experience with PA systems... Mr. Dra recommends sitting at the kitchen table, poking around, and getting familiar with the menus and screens… You may also want to look at the \"Training Modules\"... The tab is located at the top right of this screen... I also recommend that you read Gadget's \"Welcome\" post in the FAQs category and setup your gain structure...

It's not going to sound “great� until you setup your gain structure, delay timing, and perform an Auto-EQ (for inside use only) with the RTA mic... When you do the Auto-EQ only enable one side (mute the other) and use the fast mode... Once it has completed set everything (in the GEQ) from 0-100Hz flat (at 0dB) and adjust everything from 7KHz and above to suite your taste...

Most of your questions have probably already been asked so I would lurk around the Forum and do some research... You may also want to read this thread because there is lots of good information scattered through out...

2X3 using Crown and B52s (L/R stereo) for tops, and Carvin (bridge-mode) with avatar for summed mono sub...





If Dra or Gadget chimes-in I highly recommend that you follow their suggestions!...:)

Cheers,

Kevin

defumed

im in a band and i just play guitar.. i started buying my own pa system cause the guy that runs our sound sucks.. so i decided to get my own... i wanna get more lows out of my highs and run my one 15 as my lows, mainly for bass drum.. when i mess with it the speakers moves like crazy and hardly any sound comes out... ive been reading and reading and am slowly figuring out all this stuff. i don't have a mic. Should i GET one... again i mainly play indoors and rarely some outdoor party gigs... i appreciate the help and i hope i don't become a bug but i really wanna figure this out with busting another speaker.. fg4

Dra

Well, unless those top cabs are absolute crap, the single 15 could never produce the air mass that the 4) 15's could. So, if you cross them over basically anywhere you will have no real lo end that can keep up with the tops. You could try to run the top cabs full range (with a filter to protect the speakers from extreme low end damage, say 50 hz). Then set up the sub cab to go say, 40 - 90 hz. This system is going to take a lot of play time, trying different set-ups and cofigurations. Patience is the key here. In the end go with what sounds best. Just make sure that you are protecting your gear.

DRA

defumed

so the best thing is to get another sub to keep up with the 4 - 15's..
the b-52's are pretty good... sound great to me.. just not enough bass from sub.. and its a damn good sub but two would better? im all worried of fryin something.. but thanks. any other ideas would be great..

p.s. what do you thing of the bbe 482i sonic maximizer... ya or na..

Dra

BBE - Gadget hates them. If you need it, you need it. However, the DRPA has the bottom end enhancement (but no \"presense\" control) in the Sub Synth. So, if you choose to enhace the bottom only, use the DRPA (since it is in the digital world). Now on the other hand in you want to insert it to fatten vocals or a guitar, etc , have at it. I do that all the time.

2 subs better than 1. 4 subs better than 2.

If you add sub(s), then you can jump into the true realm of the x-over. Your tops will clean up dramatically. Then I would say a x-over point in the range of 100hz.
Once you get to the point of finalizing your system, post pack and we'll go from there.

DRA

kpippen

defumed wrote:

what do you thing of the bbe 482i sonic maximizer... ya or na..

Absolutely not!... That "thing" will create lots more problems than it will solve... You'd be better off getting the Funk Logic 3P-III Palindrometer... Use your money wisely and go for that other sub...

Sorry Dra,...I couldn't help myself... I've been waiting to recommend this "gadget" for a long time...

Cheers,

Kevin

Gadget

GOSH :shock:

Hate is such a strong word :? Perhaps I could mitigate that a bit with this statement.. \"On an individual channel/instrument... and used as an effect they can be kinda fun \"but as a whole system processor they only take something that sounds like crap and \"psycho-acoustically\" tricks your ears into believing something that isn't there ..is. You set up the Driverack right and you won't need or want smoke and mirrors...it will sound MUCH better without that \"stuff\"
Gadget

defumed

i really appriciate the info... i was just curious about that bbe... as soon as i get that sub ill let you all know so i can get some more info.. till then ima keep reading these forums for more advice... thanks again... -franko