New amp (s) and sub (s)

StephanC

Thanks to everyone for the helpful posts. Especially Cram Gadget and DRA.

I have a mackie mixer- DRPA-Crown 402 (for the tops) Crown CE2000 for the bottoms of TR1503 Carvin 3 way (biampable) speakers and want to get some subs and amps to match. I am looking at the Crown xls or maybe the QSC (plx) versions and either EV, Carvin TRX 18\" sub or maybe the Tapco 6918. The rear plate of the Carvin 1503

http://www.carvin.com/manuals.html has a hidden switch that I need to access but then I think I can get subs and triamp. I have binks cd and RTA mic just need advice on consumer subs and amps.

Just looking for feedback (pun intended) on a good choice in cheap (not behringer thanks) amps and subs :oops:

Dra

Define cheap and what power ratings.
Give a budget.

DRA

StephanC

I would like to spend no more than $300 -$460 for subs and no more than $700 for one large amp or two to bridge. I would like to find a Crown K2 but they have been discontinued, and I also would like to consider the Mackie passive subs (18\") too. My system is actually rarely used an occasional gig with small band , fundraiser dance for work or a once in a while a backyard BBQ party. The two crown amps I have should put 650 watts into the top and mid of the (tr 1503) although I don't want to underpower a sub I definitely want to keep the amp budget to power subs under $700 (unless I could find a new K2) What I am trying to do.. is be sure to have components that are already programmed in the first revisions of DRPA if not I am sure I could set the amp sensitivity correctlly , it's the speaker setting in custom that leave me unsure that the system will function at peak performance. Thanks 8) I could get by with one sub too , but would prefer two. I guess I would define the Tapco 6918 s as cheap they probably have 3\" inch voice coils and not 4\" but were designed by EAW and probably would do the job.

Dra

I hope you meant $300 - 460 per sub. If so, then your total budget is about $1500 for subs and an amp(s). Is that correct?
Is it your intention to stack each top on a sub? Because one option is a single, better, more powerful sub vs two \"cheapies\", but then the stack option is out
Is Ebay an option for you, given the right situation?

DRA

StephanC

:oops: Yes I did mean $300 -$460 per each sub. Sorry. I did intend to stack them and try to figure out how to sync the tops and subs with the delay. Ebay is most likely not an option as I like to buy new. I will most likely purchase new from a vendor like American Musical , Sweetwater , Musician Friend or Carvin, etc. I could use one sub really and that would probably be fine and save a little $ too. I am just not sure where to put it (physically) I know in the middle works well but sometimes the owner managers of clubs want everything out of the way. Not that I do alot with this PA like I said it's mostly backyard BBQ party and fundraiser dance for the school dept I work for. When I get the system complete I may do more with small bands in small clubs or a show with some local djs who spin electronic music , but still just once in a while that is why I am not looking to spend too much. If not , I would look at those Powersoft amps (I think G recommends them highly) and maybe go with the EV subs as they have a good rep for live sound.

Dra

The only subs I have found under $500 each, I would not want. $600 get you into the Peavy SP, some of the EV, and the some of the Yorkville Elite class of sub. If you weren't going to stack, then you could look at a single powered cab like a Yorkville LS800P (1500w) for $1300 or so. I have heard that they really put out. Find subs in your price range in a local store and audition them, or rent some and see if they work for you.

DRA

Gadget

If I may step in.. What are the chances of having the schools carpenter shop/class build a couple cabs? If not that can you cut, glue and screw wood? If so the Bill Fitzmaurice designs are inexpensive to build and sound excellent...you could build 2 or more (depending on the design and driver) for under $500... I built 2 of the Table tuba's and used the HL10a driver by Eminence they rock.. and at under $2oo per cab.. they ROCK.. the 24's might be a better choice though http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/T24.html. and @ $150 with the Eminence driver (depending on finish) would fit the bill nicely and are pretty easy to build... could even be done with a skill saw, and a sabre saw...As for the amp.. GO to NSL (northern sound and light) and check on the Crown XTI 4000.. a@ around 750... super light and powerful, and energy efficient for those long power cord runs...

gadget

Dra

Leave it to Gadget to get right to heart of the matter. Way to go Gadget. Keep up the good work.

DRA

StephanC

I may end up with the Crown XTI but was avoiding it as I didn't think I needed the processing that seems to come packaged with the newer model Crown amps. simpler is better. I did click on the links some time ago and searched for plans for Table top tuba . I also followed the testing that Gadget (thanks again) had done with the 260 and my observations were that the DRPA and the 260 etc would get pretty much the same result with RTA (pink noise) and that the highs and lows might need adjusting by ear. I am looking forward to setting it all up outside and scaring the &**&% out of the neighbors and tuning it up. I have some woodworking knowledge and probably could build nice cabs if I wanted to take the time. It sounds like it may be worth it. The Carvin TRX series seem heavy duty. I also thought that if some of the \"lower end\" subs by Mackie (and sister co Tapco) were designed by EAW that they might not be that bad. Do you guys know something I don't know ?

Dra

You used could say, \"OAP, EAW, JBL, EV, etc\" and know that is was good gear. Then marketing goobs convinced management that they could make money selling low end crap. Crap with an JBL sticker on it is still crap. Have a listen to the Tapco's. If they work, they work, but forget that EAW had anything yo do with them.

The key to homemade cabs is how the lighting is when they will be seen.

DRA

Gadget

Mackie is JUNK... JBL is junk... they have gone offshore and the quality is GONE...

Those Tuba 24's will outperform subs 10 times their cost... Go lower get louder and be cleaner...

Lets face it. the cheap stuff you can buy today isn't worth your time or money...A front loaded sub needs to have a 4\" voice coil and a very good design in order to be worth a damn...I have some of the Carvin stuff and they rate it's power handling about double what it can actually handle...Their pro stuff is ok but their semi pro stuff is only fair.

Yorkville makes a decent under $1000 sub, The QW stuff by Peavey is good...I avoid BW subs they just can't get down with it...

My $.02

Gadget

quaizywabbit

Ive been perusing BF's site for a couple months now.......a very informatve site indeed......

Looking hard at the t24's--If i build one, i might as well build 4, since theyre small.

First i have to decide on which tops to build. Mainly looking for small, light, and LOUD!!!!

DR's are the hardest to build, but seem to be the best. I was thinking DR200's. That way my ol lady can still do her own setups/teardowns.....

Shes a KJ/DJ

StephanC

Are these speakers heavy duty (quality) enough. They have \"cast frames\" as opposed to stamped??

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm ... oup_ID=583

I was looking at the sigma or omega. Which do you recommend for the BillFitzmaurice design cabs ??

http://www.carvin.com/products/single.p ... 8&CID=RSPK :oops: What plywood are you using ? 13 birch ply or would it work with less. and would it hurt to double the thickness of the front of the cab that holds the driver ?

Gadget

The build quality of the Bill Fitz's speakers is sufficient if you use the 13 ply birch double thickness is unnecessary. you need to use the drivers that are suggested for the design, and if the Selenium drivers are spec'ed they are fine... you can't just put any driver in a box and expect it to be awesome...

That Carvin driver is an Eminence omega 18...
gadget

DJ Scotty G

The build quality of the Bill Fitz's speakers is sufficient if you use the 13 ply birch double thickness is unnecessary. you need to use the drivers that are suggested for the design, and if the Selenium drivers are spec'ed they are fine... you can't just put any driver in a box and expect it to be awesome...

Hello, I have eight of Bill's DR200's w/ Beta 8 drivers and these speakers rock. I am also building four Titan 48 right now and I know that they will sound like a wall of bass coming at you!!! Bill's speakers will put any pro speakers to shame, so build some of them if you can. You also only need 1/2\" B.B. plywood for his speakers. save your back and use the 1/2\".


Cheers,

DJ Scotty G