Biamp any 15in 2way with Speakon but not set up for biamp
This was originally set up for Yamaha S115V but the Peavey SP's are similar and so are any number of other cabs with a 15\" woofer and a 1 \" exit horn with a diaphragm diameter of at least 1.75 \" If the Diaphragm is smaller increase the Xover frequency to 2000hz or up, or you'll have premature diaphragm failure...For speakers with 1.4\" to 2\" exit horns they could cross as low a 700 hz depending on MFG recommendation...when in doubt follow the manufacturers minimum frequency of crossover specification ...
First off this is a \"baseline\" setup, final tweaks may be needed...You will have to open up the speaker and run the Wires from one of the speakons to the drivers...If the speaker does not have Speakon connectors I recommend you install them and bypass the passive Xover. !/4 \" jacks will work, but not nearly as well, or be as trouble free...
1. Use the same speakon connectors on the speakers 1+ and 1- are sent to the Woofer, and 2+ and 2- are sent to the Horn.. this would then be a \"standard\" configuration and would eliminate the need to even SEE what you are doing...(dark places... poor sight...it's an age thing I know but hey, it also prevents some one else hooking it up wrong...then keep the parallel configuration as well...you'll probably need to add wires between the 2+ & - terminals...Then of course the 1's go to the low's amp and the 2's to the Hi's amp...This ELIMINATES the passive crossover...in order for the speaker to be \"full range\" again the process would need to be reversed...
2. Use a 2X4 crossover, all custom (do this in the wizard..) use Linked stereo if you don't want to have to do everything twice...Hi outs for the horn, low outs for the woofers... mid outs not active in a 2X4 crossover.
3. Set a BW 18 @ 50 hz HPF (hipass for the woofer
4. Set an LR 24 @ 1.682 khz (lopass for the woofer
5. Set an LR 24 @ 1.731 khz (hipass for the horn...
******NOTE******** you may not be able to hit those exact frequencies especially with the DRPA, just get as close as you can... those are 260 setups...****
The split will help to reduce interaction in the crossover region , but will possibly require some treatment with a PEQ... Start with a bell curve @ 1.682 khz I guess I'd start @ a Q of 5.016 and a 1-4 db boost and just work with it a little to see what works best...This is used to help cover the dip caused by the split in the crossover region
6. Delay... Hmmm well it's a thing that will help the vocal clarity if done right.. fact.. the delay should be equal to the distance from the bottom of the woofer cone to the diaphragm in the horn... usually the horn is deeper than the woofer and so you would delay the woofer with respect to the horn...BUT we also have to consider that there is propagation delay (inherent in all digital processors) And we are pretty certain that that is about 7.5 ms in the LR 24 (would be different for each crossover type and slope but our friend Mikey Kovach measured the LR24 with SMAART) and is the woofer that exhibits this phenomenon... So.. therefore if the .886 ms per foot (1.0 ms per foot is usually specified as default) (you only have 10 ms available in the DRPA... per output) back the woofer up probably .23 ms and add that to the propagation delay... the finest resolution you have is .23 feet or about 3 inches
*** .89 divided (/) by 2 = .45ms or 6 inches / 2 = .23ms...or about 3 inches***
There is a better way to determine this...invert the signal of one of the components, woofer or tweeter and play a tone that falls within the crossover region say 1700 hz (1.7khz), and sweep the delay till the LEAST sound (most cancellation) is achieved...you can be pretty sure you have nailed the delay factor! What we've done is played two signals out of phase,...as one goes positive the other goes negative... so they cancel each other out. Re hook the speaker reversed...
7. Follow the Gain structure procedure
8. Using the gain control of the LOUDEST component (I'd guess the horn due to it's HUGE efficiency 105 DB versus 90 something.. for the woofer) turn it DOWN till the system seems seamless.. or balanced.
9. Use the new indoor Auto EQ method and flatten the speakers response as best you can.
Consider speaker placement in the rooms you play to:
A. Minimize interaction between L/R speakers where their coverage patterns intersect...
B. keep the sound on the audience and off the reflective surfaces...
C. Minimize room interaction, download the room mode calculator and see what MODES set up in common room sizes..particular problems usually occur around 200, 400-500hz region especially in monitors and usually make for a muddy sound.
If subs are added, then a whole series of things covered elsewhere in the FAQ's
Vocal clarity can be achieved with a slight boost @ 3.5KHZ...Guitar at 2K Kick @ 80hz second harmonic...
Let your ears be the judge... they have the final say over ANY theoretical, or mathematic solutions...
Gadget
First off this is a \"baseline\" setup, final tweaks may be needed...You will have to open up the speaker and run the Wires from one of the speakons to the drivers...If the speaker does not have Speakon connectors I recommend you install them and bypass the passive Xover. !/4 \" jacks will work, but not nearly as well, or be as trouble free...
1. Use the same speakon connectors on the speakers 1+ and 1- are sent to the Woofer, and 2+ and 2- are sent to the Horn.. this would then be a \"standard\" configuration and would eliminate the need to even SEE what you are doing...(dark places... poor sight...it's an age thing I know but hey, it also prevents some one else hooking it up wrong...then keep the parallel configuration as well...you'll probably need to add wires between the 2+ & - terminals...Then of course the 1's go to the low's amp and the 2's to the Hi's amp...This ELIMINATES the passive crossover...in order for the speaker to be \"full range\" again the process would need to be reversed...
2. Use a 2X4 crossover, all custom (do this in the wizard..) use Linked stereo if you don't want to have to do everything twice...Hi outs for the horn, low outs for the woofers... mid outs not active in a 2X4 crossover.
3. Set a BW 18 @ 50 hz HPF (hipass for the woofer
4. Set an LR 24 @ 1.682 khz (lopass for the woofer
5. Set an LR 24 @ 1.731 khz (hipass for the horn...
******NOTE******** you may not be able to hit those exact frequencies especially with the DRPA, just get as close as you can... those are 260 setups...****
The split will help to reduce interaction in the crossover region , but will possibly require some treatment with a PEQ... Start with a bell curve @ 1.682 khz I guess I'd start @ a Q of 5.016 and a 1-4 db boost and just work with it a little to see what works best...This is used to help cover the dip caused by the split in the crossover region
6. Delay... Hmmm well it's a thing that will help the vocal clarity if done right.. fact.. the delay should be equal to the distance from the bottom of the woofer cone to the diaphragm in the horn... usually the horn is deeper than the woofer and so you would delay the woofer with respect to the horn...BUT we also have to consider that there is propagation delay (inherent in all digital processors) And we are pretty certain that that is about 7.5 ms in the LR 24 (would be different for each crossover type and slope but our friend Mikey Kovach measured the LR24 with SMAART) and is the woofer that exhibits this phenomenon... So.. therefore if the .886 ms per foot (1.0 ms per foot is usually specified as default) (you only have 10 ms available in the DRPA... per output) back the woofer up probably .23 ms and add that to the propagation delay... the finest resolution you have is .23 feet or about 3 inches
*** .89 divided (/) by 2 = .45ms or 6 inches / 2 = .23ms...or about 3 inches***
There is a better way to determine this...invert the signal of one of the components, woofer or tweeter and play a tone that falls within the crossover region say 1700 hz (1.7khz), and sweep the delay till the LEAST sound (most cancellation) is achieved...you can be pretty sure you have nailed the delay factor! What we've done is played two signals out of phase,...as one goes positive the other goes negative... so they cancel each other out. Re hook the speaker reversed...
7. Follow the Gain structure procedure
8. Using the gain control of the LOUDEST component (I'd guess the horn due to it's HUGE efficiency 105 DB versus 90 something.. for the woofer) turn it DOWN till the system seems seamless.. or balanced.
9. Use the new indoor Auto EQ method and flatten the speakers response as best you can.
Consider speaker placement in the rooms you play to:
A. Minimize interaction between L/R speakers where their coverage patterns intersect...
B. keep the sound on the audience and off the reflective surfaces...
C. Minimize room interaction, download the room mode calculator and see what MODES set up in common room sizes..particular problems usually occur around 200, 400-500hz region especially in monitors and usually make for a muddy sound.
If subs are added, then a whole series of things covered elsewhere in the FAQ's
Vocal clarity can be achieved with a slight boost @ 3.5KHZ...Guitar at 2K Kick @ 80hz second harmonic...
Let your ears be the judge... they have the final say over ANY theoretical, or mathematic solutions...
Gadget
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