SP2 Bi_amp Question

WitchsMark

How do I use the Bi-Amp on the SP2's?? I am guessing I would run a cable from my MIDS AMP to the bottom Speakon connector and a cable from my HIGHs AMP to the upper Speakon on the back of the speaker?? Is there any special wiring or anything like that?? My MIDS AMP is in Bridged Mode and my HIGHS Amp is in Parallel Mode so I can stereo the HIGHs, going off suggestion of my local Guitar Center guy.
Thanks.

Dra

NOOOOOO!
Look at your input panel.
the lower speakon is full range only. The the top is byu-amp only.
You have to make a bi-amp cable. Either a single 4-conductor cable (better because you'll have 4 colors) or 2) 2-conductor cables. Wire as shown on the back of the cab. For your application, you'll need to get (or make) an output panel with 4 speakon (4 pole) I'll try to send to a diagram for the connections.

DRA

Gadget

On the speaker end...
1+and 1- are to the 15\" speaker
2+ and 2- are for the Horn...

At the other end same thing, you can buy these cables...

Get 2 panel jacks Speakon NL4's and a couple short hunks of wire... @ least 16 gage...12-14 would be better for the woofer...and run the 1+1- to the woofer amp, and 2+2- to the horn amp... If you have identical amps for both that have Speakons they are wireable for a biamp operation...
Gary

WitchsMark

Ok, I am understanding now how this SP2 speaker works. So basically it comes with a Bi-Amp input already setup, the top Neutrik, so a person doesn't have to go in and re-wire the speaker to accomplish Bi-Amp like others might have to do. Now my question is this?? In order to Bridge from my EP2500 Amp, I was told by Behringer to rewire my Speakon cable from +1/-1 to +1/+2. So, say I go ahead and just buy a Bi-Amp cable, will I be able to use my EP2500 in Bridge mode still with the new Bi-Amp Cable or will I need to re-wire the Bi-Amp cable to accomodate the Bridged EP2500??

Gadget

Ok, yes you could but you would need a custom \"Jack\" pannel @ the amp rack...

EP 2500 ..easiest way would be to use the binding posts and two sets of wire going from the two red binding posts... those would be attached to 2 NL4 speakon connectors red + on the amp to 1+ on BOTH NL4's on the jack pannel, red minus on the Ep2500 to 1- on the Jack pannel 2 NL4's.

Then on the other amp, one wire pair from the binding posts for the left, or \"A\" output to 2+,2- on one of the NL4's on the jack panel, and the other amp channel outputs to the other NL4 pins 2+, and 2-

So we have a 'Y' out of the EP2500, feeding both Jack panel NL4's pins 1+ and 1- The EP2500 is ste up for \"bridged\" mono

We have the other amps outputs going to the 2 NL4 jacks on pins 2+ and 2-...
Then standard 4 conductor cables redily available can be used...

Gadget

WitchsMark

Ok... I'm not getting the Bi-amping in Bridged mode method. How about this instead... seeing that the EP2500 that is running the SP2's is not going to be running the Lows[I have seperate EP2500 running to PV118's for that] and I have a QSC850 running the Highs in the SP2, what if I put the EP2500 running the Mids back in Parallel mode providing 450W per channel to feed just the Mids of the SP2's?? Do you think just the Mids for the SP2's will eat up more than the 450W per channel the EP2500 puts out??
I guess in a sense I am ultimately Tri-Amping using 3 Amps[2-EP2500's and a QSC850], the PV118's for Lows and the SP2's for Mids/Highs.

WitchsMark

Ok...let me go a step easier. What do I have to do to just use my SP2s built in Bi-Amp function?? Forget about the PV118 Subs. How do I setup just the SP2's to Bi-Amp?? What cords would I need and how many Amps??

Gadget

Give me your email address and I'll send you a setup

WitchsMark

magcmoon@bellsouth.net
Thank You

Gadget

The Mono biamp setup I sent would offer about 1000-1200 watts per speaker(15's) which is still short of the power you could drive those with by about 1/2...or more...450 watts isn't nearly enough for rock music...unless you cross those REALLY high...like 150 hz...even then... not enough... Make sure you do a proper gain structure and that will set the limits of the system...

gadget

Fanman20

Hi all
I struggle with bi-amping especially in the armature / \"novice operators\" field.

I err on the side of caution with bi-amping combo speakers unless you are working in a professional outfit for 3 reasons

1. If you get the cross-over point wrong and it is too low you can blow your tweeters / horn
2. If the tweeter / horn amp is too powerful it can blow your tweeters / horn.
3. It is too easy for one of your well meaning mates to connect your 1000w amp to the tweeters and your 200w amp to your woofers.

For me, the must have protection if you go down this path is:-

1. The larger speakon connectors for bi-amping on back of speaker
2. 4 conductor cables
3. Pre wire back of amp rack with “Y� lead and large speakon socket onto 2ru panel.
4. Clearly label speakon “Y� cable Tweeters / woofers.
5. Eliminate well meaning mate. (Chop their hands off or get them to make the coffee)
6. Don’t hire your expencive gear to novice operators

Gadget wrote in another post.-
Bi-amp is the ONLY way in my opinion... it's so much better you wouldn't BELIEVE it! The efficiency factor is far better, the control of the sound is way better.. it's ... well.. BETTER! all around...Well worth the effort, but a lot of work to set up properly, a process not to be taken lightly...

Yes, greater control of sound can be achieved,
Yes the efficiency factor is far better
Yes smaller amp required for tweeters / horn

But for me the risks out way the benefits, especially in the armature field.

One design / industry standard that helps is that when using the normal NL4 speakon connector (bi-amp input)
1+and 1- are to the 15\" speaker
2+ and 2- are for the Horn
Therefore if you connect large amp into a bi-amp connector, the horn simply don’t work.
You cannot connect to the horn unless you have a “Y� lead.

“It is hard to push the cones back into the speaker once they pop out�

Mark

Gadget

As Mark says, and it's a bitch sometimes to get it all set up and tuned properly.. but when you do.. its so much better than using those built in crossovers it's like night and day...Much has been written here and other places about the tuning process, determining Xover points, Delaying components, determining crossover point component delay accurately..,The learning curve is steep, but once mastered it's well worth the effort!
G

Fanman20

Yep I agree

Please, I encourage all to give it a go

But be carefull

Money for new drivers might be hard to come by

WitchsMark

Ok... I finally got 2 Panel jacks [they actually came as a set that was built into a receptacle type unit for convenience of mounting], I got some 4wire cabled from my local GC and a few Banana clips and got everything wired correctly +++I hope. Now my question is in the DRPA, I know I setup the QSC850 to run the highs, but do I use the EP2500 to run out of the MIDS or LOWS connections?? Again I am just Biamping here +++Not Triamping+++, so I can either use the MIDS or the LOWS, but not both. Which is it??

Gadget

Didn't you get the setup I sent you? I thought we were all through this already?

Go to page 38 of the manual...there you will find the input output block diagrams. They will show you all the available configurations for the DRPA. 2X3 has the 2 inputs, and the 3 outputs. This would be usable as a bi-amp setup that uses the lo outs to power a bridged mono 2500 for low end without subs. To add subs, use the 2X5/2X6 which ever suits the application...
G