Easy One- EQ and the DRPA

Rick

I just swiutched to a Mackie 1604 which doenst have an onboard EQ so I'll be looking at getting something like the dbx 215. Would you run this before or after the DRPA?

PS The tips on the Auto EQ are great. I need to try the outdoor process for the JRX115 and 118SP (I know not the best speakers but working band poor ya know.,... also since these are in the DRPA presents, shouldnt they be adjusted flat automatically? IN any case, I've found bar owner and patrons alike really HATE the long auto EQ process so anything to shorten that I'm all over it.

Dra

There are only a couple of passive speakers (Mpro line) that have any PEQ adjustment in the wizard and those are only for the low end area, not for flattening the speaker response. The Wizard's PEQ settings are only for Bi-amped tops. Don't get caught up in the list for passive tops. They are next to useless.

Putting an inline EQ with the DRPA, is only useful for complete novices until you get used to the EQ in the DRPA. IF you add it, you HAVE to put it before.
The READ ME FIRST section has all the info on the Auto-EQ (how to, why to, when to, and all the pitfalls).

There are other posts asking about using an EQ with the driverack. Search them out.

DRA

Gadget

That and a 15 band EQ is like a carpet bomber when a sniper rifle would suffice... less than useless...
Gadget

Rick

Ok, so 15 band EQ bad; 31 band such as the dbx 231 better?

I can understand that ideally one would use the GEQ in the DRPA, however, novice as I am, I'm unable to discern and say, \"That kick needs more punch, I'll boost th 80hz..\" or whatever. I'm a rube, but generally I have to slide a fader and hear it.

Historically, I've just used the Auto EQ at each venue (often to the dismay of patrons). Now I plan to do the outdoor flattening method on the tops (though I'm still not clear on which shape curve to use when and how to know which Q to set) which should reduce the time it takes getting the Auto EQ to flat. In the cases where the Auto EQ isn't feasible, it seems having some kind of EQ on the overall mix would be prudent, but perhaps not?

Gadget

You want to use the -0- or FLAT eq curve (equal energy to all frequencies0 then if you want also set up a \"c\" curve which is kinda like the fletcher munson equal loudness curve which takes into account that people don't hear all frequencies the same.. I have always found that the -0- (flat response curve works very well, I might tweek them a little though...

Gadget

uhdinator

HARMON (DBX) recommends using an EQ before the Drive Rack and after
RTA has flattened the room use a conventional EQ to adjust to taste.

I use an Ashly 31 band just because its quicker than scrolling through
all the screens on the DRPA to make quick minor adjustments.

Gadget

FYI, you CAN NOT EQ a room!

I have Klark Teknik dual 31 band Eq's and wouldn't THINK of inserting them into the signal chain unless some visiting BE insists on it...(it DEFEATS the purpose of the Driverack!) AND, I have NEVER had a visiting BE question my setup once they have played on the systems...IF the system is properly set up, and tuned for flat response (as per the RMFBP section)( reasonable personal preference \"sweetening is easily accomplished using the onboard PEQ'S and is just as easily -0-ed, for the next performance...) IF, the system setup and tuning sections of the RMFBP sections are followed (and most importantly) a system gain structure has been done...(PROPERLY) you will reap the benefits of the Driverack system...Ignorance of the technology isn't an excuse here...the learning curve is steep, but the benefits to your system will be obvious...We stress flat frequency response here and DO NOT delve into personal preference since this is decidedly a predominantly NEWBIE level site...

Gadget
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