Speaker / amp matching (technicality)
Dra
Posts: 3,777
As we all know, amps manufacturers throw a lot of numbers at us. When matching amp power properly to speakers, should the 1K numbers or the 20-20K numbers be used?
Here is an example.
PLX3102 @ 1K = 600w / 8 ohms stereo
@ 20-20K = 550w / 8 ohms stereo
A 20% difference.
@ 1K = 2100w / 8 ohms bridged
@ 20-20K = 1900w / 8 ohms bridged
A 10 - 11% difference.
Is the 20-20K a sweep with the output averaged or the actual output with \"pink noise\" produced in that bandwidth?
It seems as though the 20-20K (if measured with Pink noise) would more closely match to the continuous (insert rms technicality argument here) rating of the speaker (or rather the means by which it was rated).
So... An 8 ohm cab rated 200/400/800 matched to the PLX3102 stereo. Using the 2-4X rule, then @ 1K the driver gets 3X, and @ 20-20K the driver gets 2.75X.
If you bump up to the Bridged ratings and throw as 400/800/1600w sub, well then the difference is 200w in this case, and that is nothing to sneeze at. Yeah yeah, headroom, but consider putting some heavily compressed music through right at the peak limit (constant), even with headroom, can't be good. Then there's the, \"the system is barely into the yellows on the board. Push it on up. It'll be OK if I barely kiss the red, because it is still clean.\" But you're pushing 5 times (or more) rated power.
Consider a ferrari with factory Escort tires. The car will go real fast until the tires fly apart.
Somehow this turned into 2 different topics. All are welcomed to chimed in on either or both.
DRA
Here is an example.
PLX3102 @ 1K = 600w / 8 ohms stereo
@ 20-20K = 550w / 8 ohms stereo
A 20% difference.
@ 1K = 2100w / 8 ohms bridged
@ 20-20K = 1900w / 8 ohms bridged
A 10 - 11% difference.
Is the 20-20K a sweep with the output averaged or the actual output with \"pink noise\" produced in that bandwidth?
It seems as though the 20-20K (if measured with Pink noise) would more closely match to the continuous (insert rms technicality argument here) rating of the speaker (or rather the means by which it was rated).
So... An 8 ohm cab rated 200/400/800 matched to the PLX3102 stereo. Using the 2-4X rule, then @ 1K the driver gets 3X, and @ 20-20K the driver gets 2.75X.
If you bump up to the Bridged ratings and throw as 400/800/1600w sub, well then the difference is 200w in this case, and that is nothing to sneeze at. Yeah yeah, headroom, but consider putting some heavily compressed music through right at the peak limit (constant), even with headroom, can't be good. Then there's the, \"the system is barely into the yellows on the board. Push it on up. It'll be OK if I barely kiss the red, because it is still clean.\" But you're pushing 5 times (or more) rated power.
Consider a ferrari with factory Escort tires. The car will go real fast until the tires fly apart.
Somehow this turned into 2 different topics. All are welcomed to chimed in on either or both.
DRA
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