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Am I really a DA

2525 Posts: 7
I have spent several hours here trying to figure out how to optimize the use of my DriveRack PA. That being said, I spend more time trying to figure out what all the abbreviations everybody uses are than anything else. I know the more I read, the easier it will be to understand, but I am begining to believe this might be to complicated for a 50 year old rookie. My question is this--- can somebody PLEASE make a list of what some of the abbreviations are for some of the terminology used frequently with these systems. Or let me know if it's over my head and I will take it back and return to the technology of the 1970's.


  • 2525 Posts: 7
    I guess I must be, I can't even get this in the right category!!!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Calm yourself my young padawan...The path you travel is steep... the benefits however are many...perhaps if you had viewed the \"start here\" thread you would have found the training modules....
    Scroll down to the PA interactive guide....

    In the \"start here\" section you will also find this link:
    Which is an \" encyclopedia of audio terms and concepts\"

    Once you have a basic idea what we are trying to do here you need to understand what the different modules do, here:
    We dissect the different modules the Driverack possesses, and offer various tips and solutions for the different modules within the Driverack...

    If this isn't enough, we offer (IF you follow the rules laid down in the \"Read me first before posting section\" ) to give you starting points ... again IF you follow the edicts.. (provide ALL pertinent system information...I.E. what speakers, amps, mixer, outboard processors, audience size, purpose of system, room size... ETC...) ...

    I don't think it could be much simpler...actually...

    so, detail what you wish to know, read the proscribed information, and enjoy the benefits of the technology... that 70's crap isn't worth the disposal fee's... :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

    Sorry, I have some wonderful old Infinity RSII's and Dual and Thorens turntables.. BLAH BLAH...but the Driverack will take you places theat old crap cannot!

    Be well
  • 2525 Posts: 7
    The Rane site can be a great help, and I have spent hours reading\"start here\" threads. I just don't know if I am up to learning a foreign language this late in my life?? Guess I'll start over again, and I believe the ability to translate abreviations should make it clearer and easier to understand. Anybody ever seen a book or publication that might help in translating, rather than having to use a web site(this really reveals my technical inabilities). Thanks for your time!!!
  • 2525 Posts: 7
    The Rane site can be a great help, and I have spent hours reading\"start here\" threads. I just don't know if I am up to learning a foreign language this late in my life?? Guess I'll start over again, and I believe the ability to translate abreviations should make it clearer and easier to understand. Anybody ever seen a book or publication that might help in translating, rather than having to use a web site(this really reveals my technical inabilities). Thanks for your time!!!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    What abbreviations are you wondering about?

    GUI...Graphic user interface...allows you to control the 200 series, 1200 series and zone pro, and 480 series with a computer. You can modify and run the different modules and set up the unit. Auto Eq is not available.

    PEQ... Parametric equalizer, a Equalizer that has a low shelf, a high shelf or a bell curve. Bell filters offer center frequency selection, 'Q' (amount of the entire frequency spectrum you want to affect, be it octaves wide or very very narrow) Shelf filters have frequency, slope and gain...parameters

    GEQ...Graphic Equalizer.. I assume an old sound man like you knows what that is?

    AFS...Automatic feedback suppressor. 12 bands of filters that can be either fixed or roaming...

    Sub Synth.. Sub harmonic synthesizer ... as it's name indicates it synthesizes sub bass frequencies that aren't there...

    Auto Eq...with a dedicated measurement mic and a lot of knowledge, you can set your speakers up.. and if your good, or lucky, you can help your sound in certain rooms..but beware!

    db... Decibel.. a measure of sound pressure in bells

    PFL... Pre fader listen. A feature on mixing consoles that lets you \"preview\" the signal BEFORE it reaches the fader...

    AFL... after fader listen.. as above but --after the fader

    Hi, Mid, Low refers to the high frequencies, midrange frequencies, and Low frequencies...

    Aux fed subs... read the FAQ blurb on it...

    DIY...Do it yourself

    SPL... sound pressure level...usually measured in db's

    USB.. and other computer language...see computers..or google search

    HPF...high pass filter... the LOWEST frequency you want the speakers to produce. On the subs we usually suggest a VERY steep falloff to protect the drivers from over excrusion

    LPF...Low pass filter...the HIGHEST frequency we want the speaker to produce...When placing xovers next to each other (as in the HPF for the tops and the LPF for the subwoofer ... use LIKE xover types, Example we often suggest an LPF for the sub of 100 hz LR24.. we would therefore look at a 100 hz LR24 HPF for the tops)

    NOTE the DRPA does NOT have an LPF on the HI outs...

    BW 18, LR24, Bs6... these are crossover types:
    LR= Linkwitz Reily
    BW+ Butterworth
    BS= Bessel
    Each exhibit different characteristics, generally the lower the NUMBER the LESS steep the slope of the crossover and the MORE interaction you can expect in the crossover region...We prefer BW 18 or 24 for the sub HPF, to protect the speaker from over excrusion... the HIGHER the number...the greater the complexity of the filter, and the MORE anomalies will be affecting the sound in the xover region.. like phase induced errors, frequency combing, alignment issues...We prefer LR24 for the predictable nature of the adjacent slopes and frequencies. Other manufacturers also seem to gravitate to this slope...regardless it is simple to change and evaluate for yourself.. each and every one of the different types and slopes with the Driverack...

    Google or (insert favorite search engine here) will be able to help you with any word or abbreviation you would like to find out about...

    Anything else you can't find or figure out?

  • 2525 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info, it will be a great help on my journey. Let me ask you a question I am struggling with---I know this is adressed in the \"start here\" threads but---I would apreciate your opinion on the DriveRack PA vs 260. I don't understand all the differences and also if the extra money is worth it in my case. I have a pair of Carvin 1588A Powered speakers FOH? that have 2-15's, 2-8;s, and a horn. They are tri-amped with an electronic built in crossover. 700w to 15's--120w to 8's--80w to horns. I have one Carvin 1802SW sub(dual 18's) powered with a QSC 2450 amp. Monitors I have 2-JBL 112 powered with a Crown 1.1 (200w per channel) amp.I currently have equipment set up in my 40'X50' shop at my home. I plan on in the future to go play a venue of 100 to 200 indoors and a venue of 200 to 400 outdoors. My questions (1) I am concerned with protecting my speakers from damage and believe the 260 would offer more capabilities?? (2) Is the 260 more user friendly( can you program it from a laptop)? (3) For $280 difference I can upgrade to the 260 and also receive a DBX RTA mic in this price. At this point I would appreciate any views or input on this subject. Down the road I would appreciate any further direction as I know with either unit I will need some advise. Thanks again for your time and patience.
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Well, the DRPA offers really NO protection, you need brick wall limiters for that whole protection thing.. and the DRPA does not have it..

    The GUI you can down load and play with .. it's available in the 'Driverack Training Modules' in the upper right hand corner above. It is an invaluable tool for setting up and controlling the Driverack. You can set up the screen like this:


    and see at a glance whats going on with the system.. you can even watch the RTA in real time, which lets you see visually any spikes, or deficient areas, and even see what feedback filters are hitting.

    With the 260 you can delay the mains back to the stage monitors/drums so they all come out together. there is also plenty of alignment delay, which the DRPA only has 10 ms (or about 10 feet)

    4 PEQ's per band instead of 2.. or 3...

    It sounds better...it doesn't have the turn off thump, and it has phase, input and output mixers, and on and on...

    There really isn't any comparison... if the DRPA is $500 the 260 should be more than $1500.. there''s that much of a difference..in my opinion...


    P.S. FOH is Front of House...
  • DennisDennis Posts: 801
    To add to what Gadget said, a few years ago I was in the same position as you and thought I could make do with a DRPA. The difference in our situations was that I was already familiar with several different processors and their software interfaces, so I knew what I was looking for. I did a few gigs on the side and thought the DRPA would get me by. Until I owned one and tried to configured it for several different systems, I didn't realize what a short leash it put me on. In the end, I up graded to a 260. I kept the DRPA and sometimes use both of them for larger events.

    Gadget said \"if the DRPA is $500 the 260 should be more than $1500\" and he is pretty darn close. Back in the day, before everybody and his dog had a processor on the market, BSS had a mid priced unit called the \"Omnidrive\" (which is still available). It sold for $2500-$3000 and was a \"must have\" at the time. As time went on, BSS realized they needed to compete with the lower end processor market that DBX pretty much owned. They marketed the \"Minidrive\" which compares to the DR260 and the 2 in, 6 out version currently is available for $1300.

  • 2525 Posts: 7
    I returned the PA and am awaiting shipment on the 260. Prepare yourselves for a few basic questions as I discover the programs/terminology of a whole new world. Thanks!!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Download the GUI and start working with it to build your presets...It's way more intuitive than the front panel...it's \"the bomb\"!
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