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Crossover Gain

Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
G, Dra or Dennis -- When I raise the Crossover gains on Subs (BW18, 12db @50hz) It looks like the crossover point has some crazy overlap to the mids. What do you do in this situation? 1. Drop the gain down (lose power) 2. Put more separation between crossover points? 3. Buy a bigger amp for the subs so you don't have to adjust the gains?

I used the 260 GUI & entered in my settings and from the looks of the graph where the Subs cross to the mid -- just looks like it isn't a very smooth transition.

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    MikeyMikey Posts: 82
    What you are seeing is the \"acoustic crossover\" and not the electrical crossover. Because there are slopes to the crossovers, they will have overlap between bands.

    There are a couple of ways to handle this. You can reduce your gain and create a nice flat response. You can adjust your crossover frequencies to get rid of the overlap or you can put an EQ in the overlapping range. My first choice would be to flatten the response. Second would be to change the frequencies and third to use EQ.

    I hope you are not referring to the \"drawings\" in the driverack. Please remember that the speakers have different efficiencies and that needs to be taken into account.

    Just my opinion.

    Mikey
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    DennisDennis Posts: 801
    I'm uncertain what you are looking at. Are you \"seeing\" this response in a screen in Driveware or did you score a SMAART program and you're looking at a Magnitude trace?

    Dennis
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    DraDra Posts: 3,777
    If you cross at say 100hz with a 6db slope and boost the sub band +12db, then that band is still +9db @ 150hz, +6db @ 200hz, and +3db @ 300hz. Pretty sure you don't want that, for lots of reasons.
    The ideal way (with a 260) to fix the problem, is once again, 1 stack outdoors and measure the response. Ideally, a balanced system with x-overs at unity (-0-) will give the least interference. This, by your admission, would require a bigger amp on subs or smaller amps on mains (or dial the amps back).
    My example is extreme, but applies in principle, so the steeper the slopes the less interaction between bands, but gaining some delay issues.
    Ain't this fun? As Mikey says, there are several ways to fix the problem, so go at it. Report back your solution.

    DRA
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Ok will do. The GUI I was referring to is the one that you download so you can practice with the parameters. I don't have a 260 (yet) but It seems to be easier to see and understand what you are doing when it is in that format. All I was saying was -- when there is a 12db boost (ie Subs) the crossover points don't look real good. The Sub slope comes down and intersects straight into the LP. The gain appears to throw off where they intersect. There looks like there is a \"wider\" interaction going on. Just doesn't look smooth.... That's all. I will go back and see IF I can get the sub amp to clip first along with the DR & my board before I raise any gains. If I can't -- then I guess I will have to raise the gains in the DriveRack.
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    This what I got Dra: Using pink noise in one of the stereo channels I PFL'd it & set the trim to where the lights just bounce in the yellow on the mixer (Mixer is a Mackie VLZ 24). I could have just stayed at 0dBu but I need all I can get here so I cranked it until the lights just barely start jumping into the yellow (10dBu). The fader on the input channel is set at UNITY. I then disengaged the PLF and went to the AFL. The lights here sit right at 0dBu while the Master Fader is at Unity. I got 10db left before Master fader is maxed. Next, I went to the Driverack and the INPUT here is bouncing around 15 dBu. This looks good to me because if it goes any higher it would be clipping. The output meters for the subs show 5 dBu and a bit higher for the mids and highs. From here -- if I push the Master fader on up to its MAX (10dB) the meter lights are bouncing in the yellow & the Driverack input lights are in the yellow..... So far no signs of clipping. I set the Master fader back at unity and moved onto the AMPS. I started with the Sub amp First (all eq's,peq's, comp, limiter...etc have all been shut off in DR). When I turn up the amps my LEFT input goes wide open with NO clipping. The RIGHT input starts to clip at about the 2:30 position......can't go any higher without it going solid RED. This kind of throws me off because of the difference from LEFT to RIGHT but what can I say -- it's a BEH EP2400. :lol: The Driverack gains are all at 0dB. I am trying to NOT fool with these if I can. I proceed thru and find the clip points of ALL the amps....subs, mids & highs. This was easy to do BUT the LEFT input channel on the sub amp didn't clip....so I went to the crossover gain for the subs (which is what I didn't want to do) and I raised it 2dB and the left channel clipped. Since I am told you find the clip point of ALL the amps then back it down by 3-4dB. I just put the gain back to zero so I could keep the Crossover gains all at 0dB. The only thing I noticed by doing it this way is that the output meters on the DR for subs are sitting at +5dBu while the mids and highs are more at the 10-15dBu mark. So I could EITHER go with where I have it set now OR if it is that important to get the output meters on the DriveRack all sitting together would mean I would have to raise the gain on the crossover up a bit. Did I do this properly or am I way off? Thanks! Oh BTW -- if you re-engage the eq's, peq's, etc. after your done -- it does boost everything so I had to make some small adjustments.
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    DraDra Posts: 3,777
    1) Beware, pink noise and music are different animals. Music can be much more dymanic, so PFL to -0-. You can always push the fader up.
    2) You want the mixer meters to show clip (not yellow) and the DR at 15-17db (max).
    3) An amp should (at least) be within 1 or 2 detents of being the same. How are you set up mono sub, stereo? How are you connecting to the amp?
    4) Any altering of the signal (EQ, compression, etc) alters the output.

    DRA
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    I'm set up three way stereo. Mixer to DriveRack PA to poweramps. So you say go ahead and make the mixer show clip & make the driverack stay around +15-17dB. Then the poweramps within 1-2 detents. Yeah I used pink noise to do this (Binkster CD) without any eq's, peq's BUT when you re-engage them it makes some changes (boosts everything into clipping)which makes me think they should be left on to begin with. Yes you are right -- when I removed the pink noise CD and put some music on - I could tell it was much more dynamic as far as my readings were. Still nothing clipped though.
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    DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Dr. J wrote:
    Then the poweramps within 1-2 detents.

    I was saying when the amps have equal output, the knobs should be within 1-2 detents of each other. In other words, if the detents are the same, then the outputs of one side should be within 1-2db. Anything more than that, the amp has problems. You didn't answer my question of how the amp is connected. Stereo out of the DR to the amp or mono out and using a patch jumper, or mono using internal amp connection? I'm trying to see if you might have a cable problem.

    DRA
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    DennisDennis Posts: 801
    Dr.J

    I pulled out the Driveware program and tried to recreate what you were looking at. You have to keep in mind that what you are seeing is a crude representation of what is really going on. What you can see is, by raising the gain on the subs, you are also raising the acoustic crossover point that Mikey spoke of and creating overlap. While you could lower the crossover point on the Sub band’s low-pass filter, you could also leave the crossover point as is and use a steeper slope such as L-R 48. I’m not saying this is the correct answer to your issue but it is worth checking out. The steeper the slope, the more separation you will get between bands and the more phase alignment issues you will run into at the crossover point so it is possible that what “looks� good sounds bad. Other than the sub band high-pass, Gadget usually recommends L-R 24 and the reason for that choice is, it offers the best compromise between separation and phase response. Since you are in heavy learning mode right now, experiment with all of the filters available in your DRPA so you will have a better idea of what tools are available to you. I will use a BUT 24 as often as a L-R 24 but my starting point is always a L-R 24.

    Getting back to your current problem, the Behringer amp’s behavior don’t sound right. I don’t think it is a calibration issue. I think it’s broken. I am assuming you had no speakers or speaker cables hooked up while doing your tests and setting gain structure. I don’t find it unusual to have to boost the level of the subs a little bit on a small system in order to get even response. Keep in mind, it will change your crossover point and your time alignment at that point.

    Dennis
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Thanks Dennis -- will check it out. Dra -- I thought I did answer your question.
    I'm set up three way stereo. Mixer to DriveRack PA to poweramps
    Ok -- Mixer to driverack input (L&R) Out of DR out puts L&R for the highs, L&R for the Mids, L&R for the subs to The Sub power amp (EP2400 L&R), to the mid poweramp (EP2400), to the High poweramp (Crown XLS 202). It's in Stereo. From the poweramps it goes out to a stack of subs, mids, highs (L&R).

    My Gain structure was set with the speakers unplugged from the poweramp using pink noise otherwise wouldn't it be pretty loud? :lol::lol: After I was done doing that I hooked the speakers back up and played music through. Everything sounded good.

    Now getting back to my initial question or observation: IF I keep the gains all at 0dB (on DR) then the output level on the DR is slightly lower than the mid & high levels. If I RAISE the gain on the SUB crossover (9dB) I can get the output levels on the DR to be even for the subs, mids & highs. That's it! So -- what would be the better option? One or the other? Somwhere in the middle? Chuck the Sub amp and get a new one and try again? I don't doubt that the Sub amp may have a few issues BUT it does work and we get sound out of it.
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    DennisDennis Posts: 801
    With all of the gains set at 0dB, does it sound correct or is it weak in the low end ? Your ears are the final test.

    Dennis
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    DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Put the sub amp on mids, since you say their (mid amp) clip point is the same. If the problem remains (different clip points), then it IS the amp. If no problem, then put back on LO output and switch cables (L&R) from DRPA. If problem flips, then replace the cable. If problem does not flip then it is the DRPA output.


    DRA

    PS - You have probably done this already, but, hey.
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Actually I haven't DRA because I have been told that the Output is the Output is the Output no matter where you place the Input knobs on the front. So my buddy tells me that switching the amps won't change anything. This is probably true ONLY for a TRUE functioning amp. BUT I will go check this shortly. I bet you are right! That SUB amp is Crap! Thanks Dra! I will post later. Man -- it is beautiful out today and I want to do a flattening session out on my buddies Farm. No boundaries in sight!!!
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Well..... This is what I found out. I didn't switch the amps around (Sub & Mid) instead I unplugged the Sub amp from the DriveRack altogether. With Pink noise still running through the mixer and the DR --- The sub outputs on the DR are still showing their levels down 10dB from the mid & high output levels. This is without the amp connected whatsoever. So -- Is there something wrong with the DR Sub outputs? Or is this normal? Now if I raise the Crossover gains on the Sub crossover from Zero to 7dB it all balances out. At that point I basically have the same levels for the inputs and the outputs. There still may be an issue with the Sub amp BUT I am still back to my original question: Raise the gains to level out the outputs on the DR? OR keep the gains at Zero (just so the crossover doesn't have phase issues, overlaps ....etc) and just live with the fact that the output levels on the DR aren't the same with the others?

    Right now I am heading out to do a Flattening session. I will do one with the gains at ZERO and one with the gain set at 7dB since I can't just go out and do this anytime I want.
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    DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Just to check. Are the channel (mixer) EQ's flat. Is there a HPF on the channel that is on?
    Set the low band to 20-out, mid band 20-out, hi band 20-out. How does that look?

    DRA
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    DennisDennis Posts: 801
    Dra

    50Hz to 100Hz is a fairly narrow band. A lot of speaker manufacturer's sub tunings will set the high-pass at 35Hz or lower and do a noticeable EQ bump around 40-50Hz. I don't think there is any real issue here.

    The Behringer amp is another story.

    Dennis
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    Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    The Channel strip EQ was all set to unity -0- I run a CD player in the 23-24 stereo channel.
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