Here's another one from this brain of mine.

Dra

Is this correct?
A 100hz tone is amplified to 80db @ X input level. Total output is 80db.
A 400hz tone is amplified to 80db @ Y input level. Total output is 80db.
A 1000hz tone is amplified to 80db @ Z input level. Total output is 80db.

If these 3 tones are all input at their same (X, Y, Z) levels, the output remains 80db, but the amp output power has increase. Correct? Incorrect?

Pink noise in a driverack should show equal levels at input and outputs (assuming x-over gains are equal), regardless of cross-over hz settings. Correct?
Dr. J's post got me thinking.

DRA

Dr. J

Dra -- on my Driverack the the input shows it to be the same as the mid outputs and the high outputs BUT my sub amp does not -- it shows at least 5-10dB lower. That's why I wondered if I should raise my crossover gains to match that or just leave it alone. The only reason I can think of why my sub amp shows that is because #1. It is a BEH and #2. One week after I got it -- it suddenly quit working and I had to send it back in (complete pain...etc). When I got it back I noticed that the left input knob could be turned wide open and the right one couldn't because it was incredibly louder. It made me think the service tech didn't calibrate this thing right even though I know there can be some differences volume wise left to right. How do I tell if the outputs are consistent left to right? Put an Oscilloscope on it? I say all of this because your question

Pink noise in a driverack should show equal levels at input and outputs (assuming x-over gains are equal), regardless of cross-over hz settings. Correct?

It got me thinking why my DR shows differences. Maybe Gadget will jump in at some point. He has been pretty busy lately he tells me.

Mikey

Just a couple of observations...

First, pink noise is equal energy per octave. That means the power density decays at 10 dB/decade.

If you have any sort of crossovers going on, you will definitely notice a difference in meters between bands. This can be verified by setting all the output gains at the same level and run pink noise through as you change the crossover frequencies.

Is your sub amp under load? Your speaker may be the culprit. Efficiencies in speakers should be compensated through output gain in the crossover.

Mikey

Dr. J

Hey Mikey! My crossover is set up as follows (per Gadget instructions)
Subs: 50hz - 100hz BW18
Mids: 106hz - 2k LR24
Highs: 2.2k - Out LR24

With that said & with the gains on the DR PA ALL set a Zero. The output meters on the Driverack are not even. The sub output levels are down by at least 10dB from the Mids & the highs. The Mids and the highs are even together sitting at +15 dBu. I know that maybe this doesn't make sense to you guys BUT I did have the Sub amp worked on and that is why I brought that up. Maybe the amp is Crap! If I had a scope put on it -- shouldn't the ouputs be even for BOTH channels? I feel that the LESS volume side holds my system back. The other side seems MUCH more powerful and FULLER BUT I have to pull it back to balance out the sound. I don't know............

Dra

What is the output comparison between Side Crap and Side OK? What load is on each side of the amp?

I forgot, I have 2 amps that I need to sell. 475w@8 (2 ohm min) & 750w@8 (4 ohm min) Yorkville AP3000 & AP3400. Interested?

DRA

Mikey

If I'm understanding this correctly, you don't see the output meter on the subs hitting as hard as the other output meters??

If so, and your acoustic output levels match, the sub is more efficient and does not require the output gain to match your other speakers.

Am I missing something?

BTW, change the crossover on the high end to a BW 6. Eventhough it is technically not engaged, I see the effects of phase on those output crossovers. The BW 6 will produce the least amount of phase distortion.

Mikey

Dra

Mikey, If I am following correctly, all this is pre-speaker output. All developed from max gain structure settings (just below amp clipping on all bands) then comparing DRPA output meters to each other. I think. :?

DRA

Dra

So really, the amps have NOTHING to do with what he is seeing at the meters.

DRA

Dennis

\"Hey Mikey! My crossover is set up as follows (per Gadget instructions)
Subs: 50hz - 100hz BW18
Mids: 106hz - 2k LR24
Highs: 2.2k - Out LR24\"

I have seen Gadget advise on xover filters a million times and he usually suggests BW18 for the sub band high-pass and L-R 24 for the sub band low-pass (which is quite standard). Also, 50Hz seems a little high but I am not familiar with your subs.

Dennis

Dennis

DRA

It's hard to troubleshoot one problem without troubleshooting the other at least when it comes down to a listening test.

Dennis

Dra

Dennis, Almost as hard as trouble shooting on a forum.

Kind of like trying to figure out why some speakers are working while others are not. Then you realize, after tracing cables and scratching your head for what seems like forever, strolling to mix position and remembering that you muted that set to check the other. That is an easy fix when you can see the LED. DOH! :roll:

DRA

Dr. J

Ok Dennis you are right -- that is the way I have it set up -- I just wrote it down wrong. BW 18 on the subs everything else is at LR24. Mikey I can change that high out to a BW6 no problem. As far as 50hz goes.... yeah seems high but they are running through Harbinger 18's which is a \"Guitar Center\" offshoot...... you get the picture. This is really how I arrived at that and maybe this is incorrect BUT it worked for these subs. I just had the Drummer start kicking through the system with the crossover set at 40hz and kept raising it until it sounded the lowest & cleanest which was right at 47.5-50hz. when I get my Fanes done & bigger sub amp -- then I will go lower for sure. Thanks guys!!

Dennis

Amen Dra

Gadget

Wow.. Ya'll have been busy! I'm trying to get my new Bike so I've been doing that pretty much exclusively.. Sounds like you have things pretty well in hand..

Hi Mikey.. really good to have you and all the guys here..
Thanks

There she is...
G

Mikey

Hey Gary, is it XLR or 1/4\"?

Dra

Is that 2400 watts with a 2 wheel load? What is the throttle sensitivity? 98db @ 1w/1m?

nice,
blat blat blat blat blat blaaaaa blat blat


DRA

Dra

Not to be confused with varoom. 8)

DRA

Dra

Hum 8)
The rear foot pegs are down. Wonder what that could mean. :roll:
Nuttin' gets past me.

DRA

Gadget

Its SPDIF all the way baby! Her name is Zelda and she is WAY more awesome in person! :shock: :shock: :shock:

This thing is MASSIVE! the front tire is almost 6\" wide and the back one... bigger than most CARS! The seat is 18 inches wide :!: Man is it comfy...PLUS it was a BIRTHDAY present! Now I gotta get the hotrod out.. it's time for some cruising :twisted:

Mikey my phone went KABLOOEY. and all my numbers got lost..or I would have called you.. I've left some banter on your myspace page.. Geez kinda the \"who's who\" of Nashville... email your number and I'll call ya...

Be well my friend.
G

Gadget

Dra...
I tell ya the load was in my pants when I pulled up to pick it up tonight...this thing looks like new... in EVERY way! Made the Electra Glide sitting next to it look small

1500 per channel, semi-quad fore barrel, gold plated madwan bar, with a digital hixton wire! Chrome flugel valves and dual blinker fluid reservoirs.

!8\"er's in the front and 17's in the basement...fake tank (it's under the seat!)

Well.. I'm in love and I ain't gonna get much sleep.. but right now it's 32 degrees out and the cops are buzzin around like it's the inquisition.. :roll:

G
tomorrows another day!