DRPA+ Bose 802 / 502 and Yamaha SW118 config question
Darryl97420
Posts: 6
Hey Guys,
New to the DRPA+ thing and am attempting to modify my existing setup which is a Mackie 3204 to a dbx166 out to my Bose 802C controller out to a PLX3002 to the highs, 2x 802 per side, and a PLX3402 for the lows, 1x 502BP, per side. To date the sound has been pretty good for our band but I really am missing the sub bass that my 502's can't reproduce as they roll off at 55hz. So I have purchased a pair pf Yamaha SW118's and a DRPA+. So my question mainly is should I attempt to run the SW118 in addition to the BOSE setup and cross them at 90hz or replace the Bose subs completely. My concern with removing the Bose subs would be the punchy mid-bass that comes from the 12in.
Thoughts?
Questions?
New to the DRPA+ thing and am attempting to modify my existing setup which is a Mackie 3204 to a dbx166 out to my Bose 802C controller out to a PLX3002 to the highs, 2x 802 per side, and a PLX3402 for the lows, 1x 502BP, per side. To date the sound has been pretty good for our band but I really am missing the sub bass that my 502's can't reproduce as they roll off at 55hz. So I have purchased a pair pf Yamaha SW118's and a DRPA+. So my question mainly is should I attempt to run the SW118 in addition to the BOSE setup and cross them at 90hz or replace the Bose subs completely. My concern with removing the Bose subs would be the punchy mid-bass that comes from the 12in.
Thoughts?
Questions?
0
Comments
I would make all connections Highs, Mids, Lows and set up a preset for each one. Tweek each one to make it sounds best, then go from preset to preset so that you have the best auditory recall. Don't compare all of them together. Compare 1 to 2. Select a winner. Compare 3 to 4. Select a winner. And so on until the \"playoff\" is done. The music source should be similar to music you play. If you are all over the place, well.... more work.
DRA
Not sure why, but (well I am but it kinda ticks me off) but Yamaha doesn't publish continuous power ratings, and with a 10 db down spec of 30hz your probably going to end up with a 35hz (minimum) HPF.. (and 40 would probably sound better) I find that with my 4 way systems I end up @ 55-65 hz LPF for the subs...and then 120 hz to my 12\" 2 way tops...
As Dra indicated some experimentation will be necessary.. but UNLIKE Dra 8) I think it's pretty easy and fun...
Enjoy, and let us know how it goes...Just make sure all the cones are moving in the same direction at the same time...with all those drivers... one out of phase can raise total hell with the system...
Gadget
Yes, I was definately saying try both a 3-way and a 2-way. The only ranges I listed were for the Bose as a low-mid.
The only Pro-Bose I have experience with are discontinued. Nice of Bose to support only the most recent discontinued model and not the ones from 10+ yrs. It was similar in appearence to the 502B, but not as square and, I think, had 2) 12's and had a larger exit opening. They did sound really nice, though. Really tight.
thanks for help. I will let you know how everything comes out.
Darryl
Bose 802c 125-16K
Bose 502B 55-125
Yamaha SW118 31.5-100
Thanks guys for your taking the time to answer my questions.
Darryl
DRA
The true test will be Saturday when the band I run sound for is playing outdoors. I have always just used the 802/502 configuration for the band with no complaints until we did a show on the 4th using a massive Carvin TRx system with a DRPA. Everyone loved the sound which put me in a pickle. I know that my system is much too small to duplicate that massive sound, but this is a good starting place.
There is a gentleman who has a set of Yamaha S215 tops for sale that I am considering but don't know if they will be as smooth on the top end as the Bose.
Sorry to be so long winded.
Darryl
Set up the Bose system, as is, out of the DRPA high output. Set the HPF on the x-over to 60hz LR24. Set the Low output from the DRPA > Yammies on the x-over to HPF 35hz BW18 and LPF 60hz LR24.
DRA