How much difference will a DRPA+ make?
NatJag
Posts: 8
Hi Guys,
I'd like some input from users.
Obviously the DR can be used as a X over GEQ PEQ etc. Apart from saving rack space, how much would do you think the DR has improved your sound over having these separate units perhaps. Considering the added advantage of speaker tunings. (assuming you have them).
In consider getting a unit mainly as speaker protection, since a recent amp (QSC PLX1802) purchased is slightly higher rated than the speakers (4xRAMSA WA-200 ran at 2 a side usually with a RAMSA 9220 amp). I don't have bass bins (sold them), as the bloke that runs the band doesn't like the look of them (he'd have 60's vox columns if he could) so a X-over wouldn't be of use. Until I can pursued the guy how much better the sound would be. Long story that. We Rarely use out own PA to be honest as mostly it's supplied with a sound engineer of various qualities. But when we do use it, I need our sound to be as good as it can be.
I would use the HPF and slight limiter settings when using the QSC amp. Plus GEQ or PEQ.
I look forward to your input and replies.
I'd like some input from users.
Obviously the DR can be used as a X over GEQ PEQ etc. Apart from saving rack space, how much would do you think the DR has improved your sound over having these separate units perhaps. Considering the added advantage of speaker tunings. (assuming you have them).
In consider getting a unit mainly as speaker protection, since a recent amp (QSC PLX1802) purchased is slightly higher rated than the speakers (4xRAMSA WA-200 ran at 2 a side usually with a RAMSA 9220 amp). I don't have bass bins (sold them), as the bloke that runs the band doesn't like the look of them (he'd have 60's vox columns if he could) so a X-over wouldn't be of use. Until I can pursued the guy how much better the sound would be. Long story that. We Rarely use out own PA to be honest as mostly it's supplied with a sound engineer of various qualities. But when we do use it, I need our sound to be as good as it can be.
I would use the HPF and slight limiter settings when using the QSC amp. Plus GEQ or PEQ.
I look forward to your input and replies.
0
Comments
Gadget
Note that also we have provided a well stocked FAQ section, and a whole lot of info on system setup and tuning...
As for the speaker tunings... who cares! It's simpler to set up a custom one and set your own parameters...besides there are no tunings for passive speakers, fullrange speakers, powered speakers.... See, if the manufacturers admitted that their speakers were somehow flawed and required tuning... how many do you think they would sell? Even speaker systems with subwoofers don't require \"tunings\" but simple HPF for the subs, and crossover from subs to tops and THAT we deal with at great length here...
Speakers that require TUNINGS are PASSIVE design 2 way, 3 way, 4 way...etc that HAVE no passive crossovers, and require some kind of electronic filtering for it's components...
Hope that helps...but think about it this way... all those outboard components... if they are like most users systems.. a hodgepodge of different brands that all have different technologies ... that when patched together with a bunch of questionable cables of various lengths that provide impedance problems...interactions...added noise and humm factors... It's everything you need between your mixer and amps/speakers...
G
I'll probably post requests for help if I get into difficulties with the unit. Seems simple enough to set up.
So far it all looks quite simple. Can't wait to get it into action. First use will be monitors, so shall be good to see how the AFS does.
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=959
viewforum.php?f=60
These things will help your setups and help you to be able to run monitor, and mains, and mains and monitors together...
Good luck and have fun!
Gadget
I'm in the same boat....just got mine and won't be able to put it to the full test until Saturday evening. I strongly suggest you give it a dry run with whatever PA gear you have prior to a live engagement. Here's what I did...
I set up our full PA rig (mixer, BBE SM, DRPA+, two power amps, two passive 3-way mains w/ internal x-over, two 18" subs) in my living room and positioned the RTA mic approx. 15' away....far from ideal but practical in developing a "hands-on" feel for things. I then ran through the Quick-Start auto set-up from start to finish (don't deviate!) and pumped some CD's through the system. I don't know what impressed me more....the DRPA+ or the fact I was able to get it up and running.
I still wasn't fully confident so I dragged the full rack (sans speakers) to a local sound guy for and addt'l tutorial. Four hours for $20; you can't beat that! Turns out I wasn't that far off-track but I still learned a handful of FOH tricks. Example: even if you established a DRPA+ tuned flat response, you can still tweak your tonal balance not by monkeying with the EQ but by manipulating something as simple as the crossover points of your mains and subs.
Once you have the basics down, its just a matter of returning to the dbx website on a regular basis....consider it continuing education. My next assignment: figure how to engineer the PEQ's!
Riis
I had already read the threads mentioned, thanks for reposting the links though. I can either use my rack as FOH stereo or monitors (I have 2 mon mixes), so I can't do both. If I get on with it, I may get a 260 for the mons as the AFS on each input/output will be a huge benefit.
I also recommend getting your DR set up prior to hooking it up to the system.. here's what I do
1. Set up the system in the wizard... use "custom" if your particular models are not in the menu
2. load the new setup
3. press the [ program] button and you can get out of where ever your at, and will take you to the preset you just set up
4. next press the [xover] button and set up your speakers... if fullrange set the HPF at about the 3db down point with a steep slope like BW18. If your using subs and fullrange tops set the HPF as above, and then determine where you want to set the xover point, A good rule of thumb is if your under powered set a higher xover point, but more than about 100 hz and your going to end up with vocal info in the subs, and the subs start sounding honky above 120 hz...unless you have a pretty compelling reason (like recommendation from the manufactturer of that speaker) don't overlap xover points and stick with the same xover type on adjacent points.. like LPF on the subs...LR24 @100hz, and LR 24 @ 100hz on the tops.
5. look at the sensitivity of the different speakers, for instance if I'm bi-amping a top and the horn is 107db efficient @ 1 meter @ 1 watt and the woofer is 95 db efficient I will lower the horn crossover gain by 7-10 db unless I have a huge amp on the woofer and a small amp on the horn...then I still lower the horn gain but not as much.. and some experimenting is warranted...
**NOTE** moving the xover gain also moves the acoustic xover point, but so does moving the amps attenuator.
Now your pretty much ready to hook up, and set up your gain structure.
Gadget
G