Flattening Session Outdoor Method
georgesguitars
Posts: 38
Hi there,
I've owned my DRPA+ about a month and have enjoyed all the obsessive reading I've done with this forum. Most of my sound guy experience has been incorrect witchcraft-mythology. Gain Structure has come into my life now. I want to know how to do the outdoor method that I have seen discussed here. I have made several presets for my system using custom settings for all components in some presets, those that the DRPA+ has in others. I have an Allen & Heath 16:2 W3 console, 2 QSC 153i speakers on top of 2 Peavey PV118 subs that are driven by a QSC GX5 each. I have only been able to "pink" one venue and my results were good despite tables, walls, boundarys etc. I can use the setup wizard and make a new preset in a matter of minutes if I have to and am not afraid to do it. I just want to know step by step how to try the outdoor method for the "pink." Do I create a new preset for it? The one time I tried it the cycle would not finish. I have read about the DRPA+ stopping if 4 bands are maxed. Also about the stereo-mono thing, it trying to listen to the other stack. I'm thinking that I started with imperfect understanding of how to do it from the beginning. Otherwise, my sound guy (I'm really a 12 string player) experience has vastly improved from the purchase and learning curve associated with the DRPA+. I'm just a nit picker seeking perfection--if it takes forever.
George
I've owned my DRPA+ about a month and have enjoyed all the obsessive reading I've done with this forum. Most of my sound guy experience has been incorrect witchcraft-mythology. Gain Structure has come into my life now. I want to know how to do the outdoor method that I have seen discussed here. I have made several presets for my system using custom settings for all components in some presets, those that the DRPA+ has in others. I have an Allen & Heath 16:2 W3 console, 2 QSC 153i speakers on top of 2 Peavey PV118 subs that are driven by a QSC GX5 each. I have only been able to "pink" one venue and my results were good despite tables, walls, boundarys etc. I can use the setup wizard and make a new preset in a matter of minutes if I have to and am not afraid to do it. I just want to know step by step how to try the outdoor method for the "pink." Do I create a new preset for it? The one time I tried it the cycle would not finish. I have read about the DRPA+ stopping if 4 bands are maxed. Also about the stereo-mono thing, it trying to listen to the other stack. I'm thinking that I started with imperfect understanding of how to do it from the beginning. Otherwise, my sound guy (I'm really a 12 string player) experience has vastly improved from the purchase and learning curve associated with the DRPA+. I'm just a nit picker seeking perfection--if it takes forever.
George
0
Comments
After the "auto" features are complete, transfer the data from the GEQ to the PEQ's. Some playing and guessing is usually required and may take several "re-do" to get it right. Seeing how different Q's react, and how adjacent filters react to each other. The goal after tranferring the data is a finished Auto-EQ that has very little varience from -0-.
Humps or dips at the x-over point may require some "serparation" or "over-lap" of the filters, or maybe a raising or lowering of the filter gain without the change of the frequency.
That is odd about it not completing outdoors. Maybe mic placement. Typically, you place the mic directly in front of the speakers 8-20 ft away. The height of the mic should be pointed between the horn and the woofer of the QSC.
Grass is better that asphault, asphault better than cement. No structures on the sides closer than 25 ft. No structures behind the mic closer than 50 ft. No structure behind the speakers closer than 20 ft. The more open the better. The key is no reflections and no standing waves, etc.
DRA
viewforum.php?f=60
And these threads within it?
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=949
and the start here thread where e go through a whole setup?
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=959
With the DRPA+ the sequence is a little different...but esentially the same..
In the wizard if you set up stereo it will do the Auto EQ in one pass... if you select dual mono it will want to do each stack separately... or in the case of mains and monitors on one unit the mains, then the monitors....
The first thing after the wizard setup is the auto balance... and depending on the setup it could take 6 separate moves to get through that alone(dual mono 2X6 ) Here whats happening is the RTA mic is looking to balance the different elements... if you found the amps in the menu and speakers it will have you set the input sensitivity for the amps and then it will play a tone in the given band and adjust from there... if you entered custom amps it works the same way, simply follow the prompts...
The Auto EQ on the DRPA+ is super fast... my speakers took only about 5 seconds...and the DRPA+ never said not done... no matter where I put the mic...
Make sure if your going to do the outdoor method that you find a place away from all reflective surfaces... trees are a reflective surface...BTW
I'd start out about 8 feet out and one stack only... and use -0- flat response, this will create a flat preset for multiple purposes as stated in the FAQ and start here posts...
Gadget
Remember that the speakers frequency response CHANGES with volume... that is to say that if you auto eq @ 97db and play @ 105... the speaker will no longer have the same response you set up @97db...
What procedure are you using during the auto level portion of the wizard setup?
g
Thanks for the info about mic placement for the performance venue and my band curves. I honestly don't know what db I run. I pink as loud as it will go before it says turn down level, hoping it's enough.
Sorry I'm so wordy. Somewhere in this may be the facts. Mostly though, it's excitement and direction you're reading. Joy even. I wish I could study and work on this stuff all day long. I'm seeking perfection under imperfect circumstances which requires constant work and thought.
Thanks for your efforts dealing with us posters, different from each other as we may be, to keep us on the path of truth.
You could go as low as 90hz with you setup...
Gadget
That's why we normally say, "Forget the wizard.". Rarely is it good to have the subs over 120hz. 180 would put some vocals in the subs. :?
DRA
Your words give me hope. I have a cadre of underplayed musicians who attend our weekly open mic and those that have been hired to play our venue are a lot of them depending on me. Yes, I am seeking world domination...no, no, not really, but this gear and this knowledge will benefit others, not just me--our fledgling little music scene. Just purchasing the speakers and driverack was not enough. I rehearsed with it all before setting it up properly--I was in a hurry, it was late, the stuff was new. We've played out with it already after tuning it. What a difference. "If it sounds good it is good," someone said once. Even a novice can do it. I'm serious, cause that's me.
I started in this business when a crossover was unheard of...the Line array was the Shure column speakers and the mixer and amp had 50 watts of tube power and 4 channels.. a mere 10 years ago I too was in the dark till the digital age brought me into the light.. I am still somewhat an analog "purist" sort of guy, but it's REALLY hard to argue with the resu;ts you can get with the Driverack!
You will enjoy! I can tell...
G
You are pinking the cabinet (actually the system), not the components. Many times a problem area is the x-over point. Your method could never fix that.
DRA
Sounds like you didn't turn the PEQ's on... :?: That is exactly what would happen....
After you have done your PEQ work (making sure they are on ) simply zero (flatten) the GEQ and try again you can do this by toggling to the GEQ opening screen...
no, the mic is omni-directional... so it's hearing the other components unless your millimeters away form one or the other of the components...like inside the horn for instance...
Yes, The PEQ transfer is not simple, but effective if you take the major cuts or boosts and work them first, let the final auto eq take care of the small adjustments. Some experimenting on the amount of cut or boost and the "Q" of it are necessary till you get a feel for PEQ work.
NO NO NO...the auto balance is supposed to go directly after the system setup... xover setup/component selection, BEFORE the auto eq... the reason they added the auto level was many novices didn't have the system roughed in (level wise... as in the subs balanced with tops... or mids loud with respect to the subs and highs in a three way system... etc...) before they auto eq'ed and so the product would be massive cuts and boosts of entire groups of frequencies. Lows indoors is ALWAYS a crap shoot because of standing waves, so anything below 170hz is suspect, and should be eq'd by ear.
you don't clip the speakers... you clip the amps and THAT can cause problems for the speakers because when you see the clip light go on the amp is DOUBLING its output to answer the call for MORE POWER! This is the speaker killing kind of smoke letting out event we all would like to avoid at all cost...right :shock:
A mistake is definite proof that there was an attempt to do something... can't make a mistake without trying... do you think Edison got it right first try.. or even the hundredth? No, it took perseverance and fortitude. This new digital loudspeaker management system is complex at the least, and there is SOOOO much you can do but there is a steep learning curve first... perhaps allowing the auto eq to set the speaker system then use the PEQ bands available for system tailoring would be better for you...set a PEQ band on 60hz, 350hz and 3.5khz and set a broad q like 1.5 @ 60 hz and 1.0 Q @ 350, and 3.5k...the one @ 350 is a particularly troublesome frequency indoors, and can rob intelligibility from the system. so typically that would be used in a cut... the 60 hz is also a typical front loaded sub high efficiency point, but moving it around will help identify the offending frequency and then using the "Q" and cut and boost to define the problem frequencies and fix them.
Your getting.. probably not as fast as you'd like... but you have to walk to learn to run... the FAQ section has a lot of these topics covered and tips and tricks... much of them were written pre- DRPA+ but then it was built on the DRPA platform and isn't THAT different... press on and keep learning...were here for all the questions you have...
Gadget
DRA