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Subs, tops and a monitor feed, all on the DRPA/DRPA+
For this exercise were going to look at using the DRPA/DRPA+ for a mono tops / subs FOH, + a single monitor feed… all with the benefits of the DRPA+. This means you will be able to Auto eq the mains AND monitors seperately (including a 28 band GEQ for each), have 3 peq’s for the fullrange tops, 2 peq’s for the subs, and 2 peq’s for the monitors….they will share FBX and sub synth, and will have full use of the crossovers, peq’s and delays (limited though it is to about 10 feet per output…)( remember though that the Crown Xti amps HAVE a whole host of DSP features themselves including PLENTY of delay for most purposes…but for the most part were dealing with the DRPA+ DSP ONLY here… .
We will predicate this on a recent post asking for help with a system consisting of
2 JBL SRX715 fullrange speakers
2 JBL SRX 718 subs (both are rated as 8 ohms nominal)
2 CrownXti 6000 power amps for the FOH a
2 JBL MRX 512m monitors (both will only have the one DRPA channel and thus 1 mix)
1 QSC RMX 2450 monitor amp
1 RTA M measurement mic…but could be any of a number of mics including the ECM8000 behringer (not a particularly accurate mic in the very low or high frequencies) the Rational Acoustics RTA420 (arguably the best bang for the buck…) http://www.rationalacoustics.com/store/ ... a-420.html
or the Audix TR 240
http://www.rationalacoustics.com/store/ ... -tr40.html
There was a dbx 2231 geq for the monitors but it’s redundant at this point so we will eliminate it…or it could be used in conjunction with either system as a grab and go quick solution for when the muso’s decide to add MORE ME IN THE MONIOTRS PLEASE…
The DRPA+ has the ability to do a 2 way mains (using the left input, and the left high and low outs ) and a single monitor feed (using the right input and right mid out… it could also be argued that the tops could use the hi and mid outs, and the monitors the lo out since the left mono sum is not used… but since the main focus of this post is for mewbie, to novice, we will act as if this is a “tops/subs� setup… and this would normally use the high and low outs only, and the mids would be disabled…) A three way FOH and monitors is NOT possible with the DRPA platform… but IS possible with the Driverack 260.
First lets set up the system in the wizard:
1. Select the setup wizard … press the [setup] button
2. Select “STEREO�, as we need separate inputs and outputs.
3. Select “DUAL MONO� because we want to auto eq each input separately.
4. The prompts now will want you to select the speakers and amps you have, remember that we are NOT doing either stereo OR 3 way… You MUST select either 2x5 or 2x6 configurations.. in the DRPA PA+ this is Biamp tops and mono subs, or Biamp tops and stereo subs. ( Note...because of the way the DRPA is it is best to simply select Biamp tops and stereo subs '2x6' config) The protocol of the DRPA/ PA+ will ALWAYS do the left channels first, and the right channels second, so this allows for separate passes of the auto eq, so remember this when you see 'NOT DONE' after the mains auto eq it is telling you it wants to do the right channel. At this point simply select “ custom� since we will mostly be using manually entered specifications… the suggested amp settings are pretty much meaningless and will be set in the gain structure, but if your more comfortable using the setup wizard clock position, by all means do so…but know this… you will need to use the individual channel crossover gain controls, OR the amps input sensitivity controls to balance the FOH speakers to the subs…
5. Press the center of the encoder (large wheel) to load the new preset… ***NOTE*** it is best to select a preset that you don’t think you’ll ever use prior to this setup because you will OVERWRITE the one in this position when you go to [store] the new setup…
6. Now that the preset is loaded know this, whenever you find yourself in a position where you want to get out of where you are, press the [preset] button and you will return to this same position..(loaded preset) and can move on from there…
7. Press the [xover] button. This will take you to the crossover section… NOTE the H M L in the upper left corner of the screen… this corresponds to the HIGH MID and LOW crossovers and encompasses the left and right inputs and all 6 outputs…(Note...if you DON"T see all 3 'H M L' you need to redo #4 again) one of the letters will be highlighted and so will it’s corresponding H or M or L passband ( a passband is simply a filter that allows whatever frequencies you choose to be let through ) in the crossover, this allows you to edit this section of the crossover. You will need to become familiar with the use of the [<previous], and [next>] buttons and the rotary encoder to navigate the crossover section. It is best if you place the unit on the table when you get it and play with all the knobs and encoder till you can navigate the driverack and know which controls do what and can change any parameter and navigate any module… KNOW THIS, you CANNOT hurt ANYTHING during this exercise as long as you haven’t modified any of the presets, and you can always do a factory reset to get back to square one…
8.With one of the H M L in the upper left corner of the display highlighted, use the [<previous] or [Next>] buttons to select “L� or LOW crossover… the corresponding graphic of the whole crossover is displayed in the center off the display…but the LOW passband is highlighted when the upper left diplay highlights “L�…The first parameter we need to adjust is the HPF (lowest frequency we want the subs to produce) (note that even though we select a given frequency and slope, some of the frequencies below … and in the case of an LPF those above that point will be reproduced… but the steeper the slope, less of those frequencies will be audible, and the less interaction within the crossover will happen) In this instance we are using the specs provided by JBL… why? Because they have a FAR bigger R&D department and much more manpower than we do (not to mention expertise with their products or the infrastructure to do the testing…) So they provide an HPF of 30.4 hz @ BW (Butterwoth crossover type) 18. This is a very steep point but is also dependent on having the power to drive the speaker at this VERY low frequency…( the lower the frequency, the MORE POWER is required!) Since we are using the Xti6000 in bridged mode we have 3000 watts per driver… the less power the higher the crossover point needs to be…
9. Ok, we have set the HPF to 30.4hz (amp dependent) and now we press the [next>] button and highlight the LPF for the LOW (sub) output… JBL specs an 88.4hz xover using a BW 48 (VERY steep) xover slope. We have the subs now producing 30.4 hz to 88.4 hz…with very steep filters on either side of that point.
10. Lets set the JBL SRX715’s up now…The HPF suggested here is 91 hz BW48… (note, these are DR260 settings, the DRPA might NOT have this resolution so get as close as you can) , you will note that we have a few hz spread in the crossover region…(88.4 hz-91hz… but it’s only a few hz…) this is most likely to limit interaction in the crossover region…
11. The DRPA+ has NO LPF on the High outs so were going to let the speakers reproduce whatever they can in the high frequency area… … this is represented by… OUT>
12. Now lets select the MID outs… yes the RIGHT input is routed to the Right MID output, so we need to highlight the M in the upper left hand of the CROSSOVER display…In this case this is going to be the MONITOR output… you can run any # of monitors on that output but ALL better be paralleled and ALL will have the SAME send…( like aux send 1… make sure it’s a PRE fader send) here we are going to set the HPF for the monitor @60hz BW18, and the LPF for the monitor as 12.5khz BW6 ( a VERY gentle falloff that will have minimal interaction with the sound but help control the HF spray on stage…)
13. At this point it would be a good idea to save this configuration (heretofore known as config.) to a location you can find it easily, and not overwrite a preset you might want to us in a pinch ( they’re all junk in my opinion…only takes me a few minutes to set up most ANY system…PROPERLY) It takes three presses of the [store] button in order to store a new preset… this will encompass … “Name the preset�, “Where do you want to store the preset�, and “ARE YOU SURE YOU want to overwrite the preset at this location?� ( if not select a different location here)
Ok, let’s review…
We have set up a 2X6 xover to allow use of all outputs
We have set up the left input to provide a “tops and subs� config using the left high and low outs
We have set up a bandpass filter for use in driving a monitor speaker using the right input and the right mid out
We have an HPF and LPF for the sub()…(30.4 hz BW18 through 88.4 hz BW48)
We have an HPF and LPF for the tops(0 ..( 91 hz BW48 through …out allowing the tops to do whatever they can frequency wise…
We have an HPF and LPF for the monitors…(60hz BW18 to 12.5khz BW6 )(no need to reproduce below 60hz …stage low end howl…and above 12.5khz the stuff of high end feedback…(read that ..why produce frequencies that don’t help you hear the mix onstage?)
We can now do auto eq passes on the mains, and then immediately after the monitor feed.
You will need to put your values in place of those provided, you could even do a bi’amp top and aux fed sub using this method, simply adjust the values of the xover points.
Enjoy
Gadget
We will predicate this on a recent post asking for help with a system consisting of
2 JBL SRX715 fullrange speakers
2 JBL SRX 718 subs (both are rated as 8 ohms nominal)
2 CrownXti 6000 power amps for the FOH a
2 JBL MRX 512m monitors (both will only have the one DRPA channel and thus 1 mix)
1 QSC RMX 2450 monitor amp
1 RTA M measurement mic…but could be any of a number of mics including the ECM8000 behringer (not a particularly accurate mic in the very low or high frequencies) the Rational Acoustics RTA420 (arguably the best bang for the buck…) http://www.rationalacoustics.com/store/ ... a-420.html
or the Audix TR 240
http://www.rationalacoustics.com/store/ ... -tr40.html
There was a dbx 2231 geq for the monitors but it’s redundant at this point so we will eliminate it…or it could be used in conjunction with either system as a grab and go quick solution for when the muso’s decide to add MORE ME IN THE MONIOTRS PLEASE…
The DRPA+ has the ability to do a 2 way mains (using the left input, and the left high and low outs ) and a single monitor feed (using the right input and right mid out… it could also be argued that the tops could use the hi and mid outs, and the monitors the lo out since the left mono sum is not used… but since the main focus of this post is for mewbie, to novice, we will act as if this is a “tops/subs� setup… and this would normally use the high and low outs only, and the mids would be disabled…) A three way FOH and monitors is NOT possible with the DRPA platform… but IS possible with the Driverack 260.
First lets set up the system in the wizard:
1. Select the setup wizard … press the [setup] button
2. Select “STEREO�, as we need separate inputs and outputs.
3. Select “DUAL MONO� because we want to auto eq each input separately.
4. The prompts now will want you to select the speakers and amps you have, remember that we are NOT doing either stereo OR 3 way… You MUST select either 2x5 or 2x6 configurations.. in the DRPA PA+ this is Biamp tops and mono subs, or Biamp tops and stereo subs. ( Note...because of the way the DRPA is it is best to simply select Biamp tops and stereo subs '2x6' config) The protocol of the DRPA/ PA+ will ALWAYS do the left channels first, and the right channels second, so this allows for separate passes of the auto eq, so remember this when you see 'NOT DONE' after the mains auto eq it is telling you it wants to do the right channel. At this point simply select “ custom� since we will mostly be using manually entered specifications… the suggested amp settings are pretty much meaningless and will be set in the gain structure, but if your more comfortable using the setup wizard clock position, by all means do so…but know this… you will need to use the individual channel crossover gain controls, OR the amps input sensitivity controls to balance the FOH speakers to the subs…
5. Press the center of the encoder (large wheel) to load the new preset… ***NOTE*** it is best to select a preset that you don’t think you’ll ever use prior to this setup because you will OVERWRITE the one in this position when you go to [store] the new setup…
6. Now that the preset is loaded know this, whenever you find yourself in a position where you want to get out of where you are, press the [preset] button and you will return to this same position..(loaded preset) and can move on from there…
7. Press the [xover] button. This will take you to the crossover section… NOTE the H M L in the upper left corner of the screen… this corresponds to the HIGH MID and LOW crossovers and encompasses the left and right inputs and all 6 outputs…(Note...if you DON"T see all 3 'H M L' you need to redo #4 again) one of the letters will be highlighted and so will it’s corresponding H or M or L passband ( a passband is simply a filter that allows whatever frequencies you choose to be let through ) in the crossover, this allows you to edit this section of the crossover. You will need to become familiar with the use of the [<previous], and [next>] buttons and the rotary encoder to navigate the crossover section. It is best if you place the unit on the table when you get it and play with all the knobs and encoder till you can navigate the driverack and know which controls do what and can change any parameter and navigate any module… KNOW THIS, you CANNOT hurt ANYTHING during this exercise as long as you haven’t modified any of the presets, and you can always do a factory reset to get back to square one…
8.With one of the H M L in the upper left corner of the display highlighted, use the [<previous] or [Next>] buttons to select “L� or LOW crossover… the corresponding graphic of the whole crossover is displayed in the center off the display…but the LOW passband is highlighted when the upper left diplay highlights “L�…The first parameter we need to adjust is the HPF (lowest frequency we want the subs to produce) (note that even though we select a given frequency and slope, some of the frequencies below … and in the case of an LPF those above that point will be reproduced… but the steeper the slope, less of those frequencies will be audible, and the less interaction within the crossover will happen) In this instance we are using the specs provided by JBL… why? Because they have a FAR bigger R&D department and much more manpower than we do (not to mention expertise with their products or the infrastructure to do the testing…) So they provide an HPF of 30.4 hz @ BW (Butterwoth crossover type) 18. This is a very steep point but is also dependent on having the power to drive the speaker at this VERY low frequency…( the lower the frequency, the MORE POWER is required!) Since we are using the Xti6000 in bridged mode we have 3000 watts per driver… the less power the higher the crossover point needs to be…
9. Ok, we have set the HPF to 30.4hz (amp dependent) and now we press the [next>] button and highlight the LPF for the LOW (sub) output… JBL specs an 88.4hz xover using a BW 48 (VERY steep) xover slope. We have the subs now producing 30.4 hz to 88.4 hz…with very steep filters on either side of that point.
10. Lets set the JBL SRX715’s up now…The HPF suggested here is 91 hz BW48… (note, these are DR260 settings, the DRPA might NOT have this resolution so get as close as you can) , you will note that we have a few hz spread in the crossover region…(88.4 hz-91hz… but it’s only a few hz…) this is most likely to limit interaction in the crossover region…
11. The DRPA+ has NO LPF on the High outs so were going to let the speakers reproduce whatever they can in the high frequency area… … this is represented by… OUT>
12. Now lets select the MID outs… yes the RIGHT input is routed to the Right MID output, so we need to highlight the M in the upper left hand of the CROSSOVER display…In this case this is going to be the MONITOR output… you can run any # of monitors on that output but ALL better be paralleled and ALL will have the SAME send…( like aux send 1… make sure it’s a PRE fader send) here we are going to set the HPF for the monitor @60hz BW18, and the LPF for the monitor as 12.5khz BW6 ( a VERY gentle falloff that will have minimal interaction with the sound but help control the HF spray on stage…)
13. At this point it would be a good idea to save this configuration (heretofore known as config.) to a location you can find it easily, and not overwrite a preset you might want to us in a pinch ( they’re all junk in my opinion…only takes me a few minutes to set up most ANY system…PROPERLY) It takes three presses of the [store] button in order to store a new preset… this will encompass … “Name the preset�, “Where do you want to store the preset�, and “ARE YOU SURE YOU want to overwrite the preset at this location?� ( if not select a different location here)
Ok, let’s review…
We have set up a 2X6 xover to allow use of all outputs
We have set up the left input to provide a “tops and subs� config using the left high and low outs
We have set up a bandpass filter for use in driving a monitor speaker using the right input and the right mid out
We have an HPF and LPF for the sub()…(30.4 hz BW18 through 88.4 hz BW48)
We have an HPF and LPF for the tops(0 ..( 91 hz BW48 through …out allowing the tops to do whatever they can frequency wise…
We have an HPF and LPF for the monitors…(60hz BW18 to 12.5khz BW6 )(no need to reproduce below 60hz …stage low end howl…and above 12.5khz the stuff of high end feedback…(read that ..why produce frequencies that don’t help you hear the mix onstage?)
We can now do auto eq passes on the mains, and then immediately after the monitor feed.
You will need to put your values in place of those provided, you could even do a bi’amp top and aux fed sub using this method, simply adjust the values of the xover points.
Enjoy
Gadget
0