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Compression/Volume etc...etc...

premier1premier1 Posts: 119
edited September 2010 in PA General Discussion
Ok I have read everywhere NOT to use compression on the whole mix however when I push my system to its max I have to use the limiter function to stop clipping but when I do that it has to come down so low that it really takes alot of gas out of the system, so I decided to add some compression, I set the threshold at -10 and the gain at minus 5 the ratio is 8:1 that seemed to stop the clipping and I was also able to turn up the limiter enough to gain some power back, Is this tweaking of both parameters acceptable to acheve a safe level as to not harm the speakers? To be honest I really dont know the difference between the limiter and the comp?? they really seem to do about the same thing, I definatly get more out of setting the gain than anything else on both..No as far as gain structure, everytime I do it the way I read it seems to take alot of volume away and I am turning down my amp knobs alot ! So I keep starting over and doing it all again and always end up having to mess around with stuff in the end, what the f$%^%%^& am I doing so wrong? also Should I run this thing in st or mono...I am currently do everything in st..Sorry I am such an idiot but there is alot to absorb and I thought by noiw I would have it right, sometimes its ok other times its lost on me. Of note I do have a seprate comp on inserts for my Kick drum and snare other than that everything else is via the DRPA, My board has a one knob comp ( yamaha mg166cx) But it doesnt seem to do much of anything and I dont know if that hurts the drpa using it of what. Thanks Yet again ! :?: :?: Just seems I at least must have a decent small club system here not the best but it should sound ok and pump out enough volume for the venues I play, I either dont get enough or feedback or to many highs...LoL.....

Comments

  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    I set the threshold at -10 and the gain at minus 5 the ratio is 8:1 that seemed to stop the clipping and I was also able to turn up the limiter enough to gain some power back, Is this tweaking of both parameters acceptable to acheve a safe level as to not harm the speakers? To be honest I really dont know the difference between the limiter and the comp??
    Mark my words... your going to let the smoke out of those speakers... :roll:
  • Thanks
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Not interested in why? Or do you know what will happen already?
    G
  • Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Premier1,
    You said when you push the system to the max -- you have to use a limiter to keep it from clipping. That is what you should do BUT if your system isn't loud enough then you have to ask yourself a few questions:

    1. I am really out of gas? You very well could be so don't push it harder -- that won't fix it. This means you need more speakers and amps........ most likely.

    2. You could have your gain structure wrong. Most people think the amp needs to be wide open on the front otherwise they won't get full power out of it. That isn't the way it works. If you have a driverack manual look at the last two pages of the book where it talks about gain structure. Most amps will clip with about 6dBu of input signal or more whereas a mixing board takes much much more output signal (18dBu to 24dBu) to achieve that.

    So you are sacrificing around 12dB of headroom -- IF you have done the gain structure improperly. At this point, I am not convinced yet that it is set right.

    Go back and check that. Use pink noise into a channel on your mixer with EQ's OFF, compressors, gates, limiters OFF. Start with good clean signal. Follow the procedure on the back of the driverack manual EXACTLY.

    IF you don't have a DR260 and you have one of the other DR's -- setting the limiter may not help you much since they don't have a brickwall limiter. The 260 does. So when you reach the clip point on the amps -- that is all the gas you are gonna get so don't push the system further otherwise like Gadget said -- the smoke will come out of your speakers. The heat has to go somewhere.

    Using limiters are fine if you know how to set them up BUT honestly if your gain structure is correct -- it will tell you when your are at the clip point. Don't go any further.

    Compression should be used on an instrument or musician that can't maintain their volume consistency. For example a crazy loud snare drum, a slap happy bass player, a vocalist who doesn't sing very loud but screams really loud......etc. Use it to TAME those instruments. When placed on the whole mix........ makes it sound sterile. There is a very fine line where you can get away with that but it takes a bit of experience. You shouldn't HEAR the compressor working. If you hear it "Breathing" -- then it is set to hard.

    Compression is different than a limiter but if you compress with high ratios 14:1 to infinity and crank the threshold -- you have turned the compressor into a limiter.

    Hope that helps.
  • Of course I wanted to know why Gadget, I just figured from your responce without explanation that you did want to answer anything more, Dr J, I will do the gain structure again as per the manual, I have the DRPA+ And see whats what, Your right about the mixer needing to go further and thats whats confusing me at times, on the mixer the lights are no where near clipping when the amps are and I thought I could get everything clipping at the same time, but Thats not the case I guess, when the syatem is loud it doesnt break up at all so I will have to keep doing this until I do it right with the gain structure, Thanks for the help and I will keep trying! I certainly dont want smoke coming out of my speakers!

    Speaking of clipping, is it ok to see the red light for a split second on the peaks? or do you NEVER want to see even a hint of red flash? Some owners manual's say "just to the point of clipping" and also state that its ok for the light to come on now and then but not continues?? Just asking, Thanks so I know exacly what I am shooting for here
  • Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    Premier -- it is OK to see peaks lights occasionally on analog gear. Don't let the DR clip though..... there is no need to push it hard.

    I can tell you where you will go wrong with this so be careful. When you use pink noise into a channel on your mixer you will probably raise the channel gain (or Trim knob) up until you see it clip and then back off of it a tad. Make sure you back off just a tad more than a tad. The reason I say this is -- when you have other channels routed to a sub group like all the vocals or all of the drums -- they are going to SUM together and then your sub group will be really hot. Allow yourself just a bit more room.

    Just experiment with this particular part of your gain structure. The rest of it is pretty easy.

    Next, set your channel fader at UNITY, then bring the MASTER up until you find the clip point on it ( I hope your speakers are disconnected first). Hopefully, you get to at least unity before you see clip lights. My board clips right around +5 on the meter BUT if every channel strip knob is gained out till barely clipping -- then I am lucky to get the board to unity on the master fader. Does this make sense so far?

    Mark the clip point on the mixer and back it down until the master isn't clipping anymore. Now look at the DR meters. What does the INPUT say? If there is NO clipping there -- then there shouldn't be any clipping on the output meters either.

    Move onto your poweramps & raise the knobs on the front up slowly. If you get them wide open before they clip -- then leave them there BUT if they clip before wide open -- you have to back them down until the red lights go off.

    Now go back to your mixer and see if you are on track. Does each device reach it's clip point together? If so, you are pretty much done.

    One more thing -- just because you have maximized your gain structure you still have to be careful that your speakers can take the power. They don't have little red lights on them telling you when they are clipping.

    Find the rated RMS value or program value on the speaker and you will have to make sure your amp is powerful enough to deliver what it needs.

    My tops are rated 600watt RMS, 1200watts program, 2400watts peak. DBX says I need 1.5 to 2 times the rated RMS value to be safe so that means a 2400 watt amp in bridge mode to deliver 1200 watts to each speaker at a 4 ohm load.

    We set the gain structure to maximize your signal for the best signal to noise ratio. And you know when your mixer clips -- your amps are at their clip point as well BUT this doesn't necessarily mean your speakers can handle it. It just means you are at least not sending a clipped signal (square wave) to the speaker which is really bad.

    Ok man, give it a shot.

    Dr. J
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Premier:
    I always have a reason for my posts...It may be that I'm trying to get you to think... It might be that I want you to review what we have already covered, or some of the reading I have suggested... it could be that you have missed something that I said earlier....perhaps I didn't have time for a full on explanation at that moment and that I was going to re-visit the topic when I had more time...

    We answer hundreds of questions a month, and it gets a little tedious when we post an answer, and then there isn't a reply for days or even weeks at a time...this goes to the interest of the subject, and the answers to our questions...when a subject gets posted there are lots of lurkers... they are learning form these posts as well even though they don't post, so these things also need to be taken into consideration as well...

    Also we answer some questions A LOT! and that is the reason for the FAQ section and the READ ME FIRST BEFORE POSTING on the top of the opening page...

    Now, the reason I posted that, was that I wanted you to think...and I wanted you to ASK the question...you did not...I wanted you to know that that is a very dangerous thing.. stacking limiting and compression. There is much supposition about limiting and protection but here are the facts...

    1. Expecting the limiters (even brick wall limiters) to protect your speakers is a BAD IDEA!
    2. Limiters are for unforeseen event protection (a dropped mic or that type thing)
    3. Gain structure and KNOWING when your system is near clipping (and avoiding this by turning the system down) is the ONLY real way to insure you are not going to smoke your speakers
    4. if you aren't getting loud enough and the system is near clipping... YOU NEED MORE SYSTEM!!!!

    The thing is, and the reason for the warning, when you depend on a limiter/compressor to get the system louder, the duty cycle of the amplifier goes up... instead of running @ 1/5th power output your amp duty cycle starts to climb...the higher the duty cycle the more exhaustion there is in the amps power supply , and when it's gone... even though the clip lights aren't even ON, the amp is heating the voice coils, and the smoke is ready to reveal itself...

    Do the gain structure... set the limiters up the way you want them, with the threshold set to max, get the system at the volume you want to run, lower the threshold till the gain reduction starts to flicker... when the gain reduction starts to WORK.. TURN THE SYSTEM DOWN!!!!

    A occasional flicker of the clip light is not a death-nil...for the speakers... constant red WILL let the smoke out..

    BTW it was 3 days after I posted the "smoke warning before I asked if you were not interested in WHY...
    G
  • Ok I will and will report back, As a side note, My DRPA Has never cliped once during any of this, in the very begining it did it would just flash the word clip but that hasnet happened in a couple months since buying it I at least have keped that from happening ! The only things that clip are the High power (tops) power amp but not the subs amp, they are both the same amps qsc gx5 and only the amp running the tops clips now and then but mostly on every kick of the kick drum and snare but not much else, thanks for all the information and I will get right on it after band practice tonight! Thanks again for your time! Bill
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Sounds like the hipass is set too low on the tops...make SURE it is @ 100 hz or so, and that you have either an LR 24 or BW 18-24 on the tops and that you have the same crossover point on the tops and subs.

    G
  • To answer your question Gadget, First of all thanks for the reply, The reason I didnt ask sooner (And I saw the post right away) was that I simply did not know the "tone" of your responce, its very hard on the internet to get a human feeling with typing, Combine that with the fact that I am new and dont personally know you guys I was just taking it as meaning " Give it up, you dont listen and your going to blow your speakers" Juswt as yopu wondered why I didnt want to know , which by the way of course I wanted to know! I didnt understand what your post meant, I have tons of respect for you and the other here that are a wealth of information ! I see the way your answer people, your name is well respected on the pro sound board etc...So You have my respect, I am just completely new at this and needed the help, so I am sorry I took your post that way and thank you for the responce..so here goes on the xover
    I have my Lows set at 60 and 100 bw 24 gain +5 I have my tops set at 125 lr 24 gain set at 0.0 are you saying bring the top down to 100 so its on top of the low 100? Thanks!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Yes, here is what I would suggest...
    Lows:
    HPF 55hz BW18
    LPF 100ha LR24

    tops:
    100hz LR24

    Now, if you have the gain structure set up properly, and you know where and when the amps are WILL clip (as in the mixer should clip BEFORE the amps)

    As for limiting... if the gain structure is proprerly set...and you know where the mixer will clip, try and maintain 6-12 dB of headroom... so with that in mind, IF you want to set the limiter use Jerry's setup instructions...

    BTW.. were here to help.. have been (myself) for more years than I can remember...We do expect that the poster learns something here.. were not big on just giving all the answers... it all goes back to that age old proverb... give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, teach him to fish..and he will eat for a lifetime!
    Gary
  • Ok so I am basically all set, I started over and set up a mono system, now the only thing that clips is the top right side speaker? the red light on that side of the amp which powers that speaker flickers in the red while the other main top and both the subs do not clip at all??? The board is not clipping either and neaither is the DRPA, So what could this mean now? I turned that volume on the amp down on that side and it stops it but its not even then with the left, I am all ears, Thanks Guys! By the way as a side note, we are playing a large gig friday night with a professional sound guy and all there equipment, we are the third of three bands for the night, anyway I cant wait to see what they do up close and how they set things up etc...should be fun to have someone else worry and all I have to do is sit behind my kit and play for a change! But again, thanks so much for all the help, I am getting there, I seem to learn something new about the drpa every time It turns on. :mrgreen:

    Oh and this sound guy better give me some click in my kick drum! have to have that click! nice and tight! lol....
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Does your board have a Clip LED? The point that Gadget has been trying to make is that the board SHOULD be clipping if the amp(s) are. You actually want the board to clip just before the amps do and the DRPA NEVER (AND NOT EVEN CLOSE). If you only have output meters on your mixer that are segmented and, say, have 4 green, 4 yellow, and 4 red LED's, then you should set the mixer output (with pink noise) to be (pick a point, but I'd chose a flickering (occasional) top red and a solid next to top red LED and set the amps to that. Then you can get into low red and still be certain that you are not clipping your amp(s). Now, if the DRPA input is clipping or too close to it, then you'll need to set a different max for the mixer. The same if you have audible distortion from the mixer at that output level. That is easily checked by turning the amps back quite a bit and running the mixer to its max and listening for distortion.
    But in all, sounds like you are getting a handle on things.

    DRA
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    The click is 2-3K ...
  • Thanks , I have it now where the board clips slightly before the amps and the drpa never clips at all, all limiteres are off along with the comp, not using those now at all and no distortion and decent volume, Now I a trying to get the bass really tight using the peq which does seem to help alot, I hear you Gadget on the click ! I thought it was more 4k close anyway lol, that balence of click and chest punch is what I am trying to dial in now!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Sorry dude... probably not nearly enough system for chest thump...2 PV118's and 500 watts per speaker...But I find a PEQ @ 50-60 hz and one @ 100hz or so (usual high efficiency points for front loaded speakers) with a Q around 1 or slightly higher (narrower) and a cut that corresponds to the amount of the boosts at those frequencies.
    G
  • I thought it was enough because the speaker was rated at 400 program so I figured 500 would be good, anyway maybe at least more "tight" than "boom" I will try those peq settings, Thanks again!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    To get chest thump you need to get speakers that are capable of a lot more SPL than the PV118's.. I believe they use the scorpion woofers and they just are not capable of that kind of performance.. in fact, the PV 118's are actually more of a low/low mid speaker ..NOT sub frequencies...that would take the Peavey SP118 or better.and usually more than one...and LOTS of power.. like 2 SP118's and 2000-4000 watts of power...

    sorry dude..
    G
  • Dr. JDr. J Posts: 209
    You could build some DIY FANES for about $500 per cab maybe less. I built four of them. My brother-in-law has TWO Dual SRX 728's (JBL) and TWO Dual EAW subs for a total of 8- 18's and I feel like cab for cab my DIY Fanes will do every bit what those cabs will do.

    Now if I had 8 FANES -- I am certain they would do very well against the JBL's & EAW's -- probably take them. I just don't see the sense in spending a minimum of $1,000 for a single 18 store bought box when I can have two custom Fanes.

    Everywhere I go around here people ask about the subs -- like what brand are they? When I tell them I built them -- they are floored!

    The next subs I get will be Labsubs.

    http://www.fane-acoustics.com/resources.aspx
  • Ya Gadget I know lol, I just baught those thinking they were in fact subs and the price was right, they do however sound a hell of alot better than having nothing at all I can say that, I wish money was not an object at all but I have to start somewhere , I plan on keeping my eyes open and upgrading as I go along. One plus in my favor is most of the rooms/bars we play are very small 100 to 150 people max and it works out ok for that I guess.
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