Settings for SP2 and SP218's on Driverack PA+

gbayless

Hello

I have the newer style SP2's and SP218's from Peavey and the setting are not in the Driverack PA+

Does anyone have an idea for the settings for these? We are running in Stereo mode

Thanks
George

Gadget

There really aren't any settings for fullrange speakers and sub... other than a crossover point and HPF.... and you haven't provided enough info for us to give you those. I mean, I could arbitrarily set a crossover frequency like most manufacturers do (but they assume that you have the optimum amps for those speakers for those specs) ... but to be more accurate if you give us the amp configuration we can better tailor a setup for you.

Gadget

gbayless

We are using Behringer EP4000's http://www.behringer.com/EN/downloads/p ... 8_M_EN.pdf


SP2 - http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature ... 0_9080.pdf

SP218 - http://www.peavey.com/assets/literature ... 6570_5.pdf

Thanks George

Gadget

Ummmm... :roll: one...two? one for each cab? sorry... but my mind reading skills are pathetic at this point...

gbayless

or my skills at communicating are lacking............

We are using an EP4000 to run the tops and an EP4000 to run the Subs all in Stereo

Thanks
George

Gadget

Just so you know... it has been postulated on the Pro Sound Web that the EP4000 is actually a re-branded EP2500 that they just added a peak power specification to.

The reason I bring this up is...you are pretty underpowered. Those speakers are pretty power hungry.
Power handling: 2400 watts program, 4800 watts peak

The amps will give:
4000 watts (PEAK) power into 4 ohms or (by the manual) 950 watts @ 4 ohms stereo (SP218)...and 550 watts @ 8 ohms (SP2)

For the SP218's that's only about 500 watts per driver...

Set the HPF @ 45hz BW18
set the LPF @ 100hz LR24

For the tops set the HPF @ 100 hz LR24

These points takes into consideration the power available.. you should probably have one amp in bridged mode per sub and top... but you could run mono on the tops to get more power for them...then you could lower the HPF.

Gadget

gbayless

I have 4 of the EP4000's so I could use 1 per amp

Is that what you would recommend?

Thanks
George

Gadget

As long as you have a really strong back yes...

Then you could lower the HPF/LPF to 90hz, have better low end, and actually have some headroom in your system... much less likely to hurt the speakers...

G

gbayless

Thanks I really Appreciate the help!

George

gbayless

Can anyone help? I am really frustrated because I know I am not getting the most out of my PA due to my inexperience with the Driverack PA+

I cant seem to get the settings right my subs have no oomph and my tops arent as clear as I know they can be.

Here is what I have for Gear

Driverack PA+
DBX266XL
TC Electronics M-ONE
Behringer Ultragraph Pro FBQ3102
4 Behringer EP4000 Amps
4 Peavey SP2's
4 Peavey SP218 Subs

Havent hooked all 4 tops and subs up yet as I know I dont have enough power to do so at this time.

I know I should have bitten the bullet and splurged on better amps but is there a way to use this system to it fullest potential the way it is for a few months until I can upgrade the power?

Any help would be appreciated as far as settings etc I am technologically challenged when it comes to the Driverack terminology etc

Thanks
George

Dennis

gbayless wrote:

my tops arent as clear as I know they can be.

It seems to me the first logical step to correct this would be to biamp the SP2s, giving you independent control over your mids and highs. Currently you are running only single stacks per side due to available amplification...in order to biamp this current configuration you would need one more amp rated at 100W or so per channel into 8 Ohms to power your horns. Is that someplace you would want to go?

Dennis

gbayless

Its possible I can pick up the Ep4000 pretty cheap so I could add a few mor if needed for now

Thanks

Gadget

Ok,
I have a couple modified SP2's and 2, with a dedicated BEH EP2500/QSC RMX 2450/Nady SPA2400 (all made in the same factory and essentially the same amp) and bridged mono ( 2 cabs paralleled ) they simply kick ASS! they Get extremely loud and dynamic...

As for the subs, you will need to put one amp on a single bridged 4000 (which... unfortunately is the exact same amp as one listed above but they decided to use the PEAK output instead of the more reasonable average output with the rated distortion figures) This will give you decent power... but those subs need a LOT to get going.. and as you know they are rated @ 2400 watts program and 4800 watts peak...so a single EP4000 will actually give you 400 watts PEAK power and about 2500 watts average...watch for the clip lights a see the below for setup.

so thats an EP4000 for EACH speaker in bridged mode...and yes, as Dennis pointed out the bi-amping the tops will make a big difference, but then you are already handcuffed by the power to the subs so I'd address that first...

So Set the HPF for the subs @ 45hz BW18
Set the LPF for the subs @ 100hz LR24
Set the HPF for the tops @ 100hz LR24
G

Dra

Assuming that you have done the Auto-EQ process...... What does the curve look like? Which curve did you select?
List all freqs with ...

Cut:
More than 9db -
5-8db -

Boost:
More than 9db -
5-8db -

Using compression or limiting?

DRA

gbayless

I will try this tonight with the auto Q processand advise

Thanks
George