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Px right for me

ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
edited February 2011 in DriveRack PX
Hello everyone!!
Well I would like to ask a question.
I am a 2-3 times a month muscian and sound guy, and would like to know if the PX model is what I need?
I am using Yorkville NX55p's for my tops and LS720p's for my subs. These are all Yorkville powered speakers. I looked it up on line and I see that my speakers are listed in the PX Wizzard setup. . I also have an A&H Mixwiz board.
I mix all the bands sound from stage because I am one of the players. We play mostly 50's'60's-70's-80's music with room sizes diffrent from week to week. We are a small setup with Bass, Drum Machine, Keys, Guitar. I also am using aux controled subs, but if the PX works like im hoping it will I will go back to the L/R. I am running everthing in Stereo. 1.I would like some suggestions on this if for one do I need a Driverack?
2.If so,which one? PX,PA+,260?
I hope I have given enough info here to set me in the right direction.
Thanks!!

Comments

  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    The driverack will make a significant improvement in most any system...that said, just because the PX says it's made for "powered" speakers.. any driverack will work with passive OR active speakers.

    The DRPA+ has a significant upgrade in the tool set, and sounds better, is faster, and it offers access to the RTA in realtime...

    You would need the measurement mic though to get the full benefit of the Driverack...

    Gadget
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    Well with that said, should I just step up to the 260?
    Thanks Gadget!!
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    There are basically 4 tiers in the Driverack series.

    PX- stripped down tier and marketed to the least experienced (and gullable) users.

    PA (+) - 1st tier (2nd overall) for those wanting easy operation but still be able to get their hands dirty and money still plays a pretty big role in choice.

    260 - Lowest level DR for someone that doesn't mind spending money for a real tool. At only $200 or so more than a PA+, the 260 is 10 times the tool. First level that is designed to be 2 independent mixes and capable of multiple delays and/or zones. Also add GUI computer control. That is worth the price jump alone.

    4800 - highest level. Gadget has one. Still making payments :wink: I bet. Out of my range. PX and 4800 should never be mentioned in the same sentance.

    I bought a PA (not +) back in 2006. Although I was happy, I was not content and immediately started putting money back for a 260 and about a year later I bought the 260. Moved the PA to monitor duty.
    2 years ago I went mono and moved monitors (I only use one mix) to the other side of the 260. So on my 260 I have FOH, Monitors, a sepate monitor cue for mix position that I can just hit the mute on or off, and delay fills. Still have an output unused.


    The cost difference between the PA+ and the 260 is small considering what you get in return. The learning curve on the 260 (in my opinion is less on the 260) because you (if you use the GUI) can see the effect you have in real time.

    DRA
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    I don't mind getting the 260, I justed wanted to make sure that it was not more then I needed. I run a very simple setup and have the mind set of "KISS" "Keep It Simple Stupid". You try to do to much and you run into to many headaches, plus the added expense. I will order a 260 and go from there. Thanks!!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Good choice, now for the mic, Go to rational acoustics site and get the RTA 420 measurement mic. It's less than the DBX mic, and has somewhat better consistency from mic to mic.

    Make sure you avail yourself of the GUI, The FAQ section and the Start here thread:
    http://www.dbxpro.com/Software.php
    viewforum.php?f=60
    viewtopic.php?f=61&t=959

    The GUI will allow you to program the 260 far easier and quicker, and see visually what your doing, and you can set up a program and then import it into the driverack. You can also export all your modified presets to your computer for safekeeping, and or sending and receiving with others... like if I had a file on the speakers you use I could send you it (.dwp file) and you could import it to your 260....very cool!

    The Start here thread takes you through a setup procedure from start to finish, and the FAQ section has lots of tips and techniques for sound reinforcement, and general driverack techniques...

    Gadget
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Go ahead and do (watch) the tutorial on the DBX site. It is VERY informative.

    DRA
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    Gadget
    I don't have my 260 yet, but what would the numbers be on the Driverack for my Speakers?
    NX55P Tops and LS720P (NX720P) same Subs.
    Im studing this out and trying to make heads or tails out of of this. This is a whole new world of running sound.
    I also see the DRPA+ has my speakers listed, is this something that would save me a lot of time by getting the DRPA+?
    Thanks!!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Nope :mrgreen:

    The setup is relatively easy until you start getting into bi-amped speakers...I would suggest getting the GUI, setting up a custom system and you will gain knowledge in the process the GUI can be found here:
    http://www.dbxpro.com/Software.php

    For your system, for us to give you a better setup, you would have to provide amp info...but a good starting point is...

    Set the HPF for the sub @ the 3dB down point using a BW18 filter type

    Set the LPF for the sub @ 100 hz LR24

    Set the HPF for the tops @ the same as the LPF for the subs (100hz LR24)

    Then read and do the things in the "start here" thread:
    viewtopic.php?f=61&t=959

    and then peruse the FAQ section for more specific information on a wide variety of subjects:
    viewforum.php?f=60

    Gadget
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    Thanks Gadget.
    Those speakers are all self powered.
    As soon as my 260 gets here I will try thoses settings.
    I have downloaded the GUI allready, will order the cables also.
    I take it that using the USB adapter will not allow me to use the snake?
    I have to use the port?
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    You'll need to build an adapter (DB15 to XLR). I can't remember if the diagram was brought over from the old forum.

    Gadget, you got a quick reference location?

    DRA
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    I have the diagram for the XLR to the Port. I was wondering if this can be applied to the USB to adapter to XLR. I read some where that this won't work. That you cant send a USB signal through a Snake.
    Just asking.
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Computer USB --> USB to serial converter --> serial to XLR adapter (make) --> snake --> XLR to serial adapter (make) --> 260

    DRA
  • ScumbagScumbag Posts: 8
    Ok I pulled the trigger and found a used 260. Will be here next week. Is there any thing I need to know as far as model improvements in seral numbers. I can send it back if it is an older model per say. Has no cables. I want to pre order all the GUI stuff to hook to my computer. USB or PCMICA? Where are you buying your adapetrs and cables? Im also going to make the XLR to Serial port cable, the instrustions look easy enough, to use with my snake. Thanks Again!!
  • DennisDennis Posts: 801
    Scumbag wrote:
    Ok I pulled the trigger and found a used 260. Will be here next week. Is there any thing I need to know as far as model improvements in seral numbers. I can send it back if it is an older model per say. Has no cables. I want to pre order all the GUI stuff to hook to my computer. USB or PCMICA? Where are you buying your adapetrs and cables? Im also going to make the XLR to Serial port cable, the instrustions look easy enough, to use with my snake. Thanks Again!!
    PCMCIA. make sure your serial cable is "null modem"
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