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Output problem DR260

xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
Hello All,

I have a Driverack 260 sending LFs to a Crown CDi1000. I noticed a slight imbalance in the output from left to right and measured it with an SPL meter. At 50Hz (the frequency I chose to measure) there was an output imbalance of about 7dB. Is there some way I can measure theoutput of the DR 260 to determine if the problem lies between the processor and the amplifier? Then, is there a way I can measure the actual output of the amp to determine if the problem is possibly either the amp or the subs?

The signal chain is Emu 1616M into the DR260, out to the Crown. Everything uses TRS to XLRs thoughout, though I cannot stand the horrible Phoenix/Euroblock connectors on the Crown.

Thanks!

Comments

  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Ok, so you have a stereo signal going into and out of the 260 right?

    First thing...unplug the right input...listening to the sub swap the left input to the right... does the level change? (of course on the 260 they are actually labeled 1 &2)

    Next do the same with the other input....does the level change...if not...

    Unplug the Right output ...note the level of the left channel...now plug that cable into the right output...
    GUI and change the low outs to mono, you can select The left input, right input or left + right!

    Another way would be to simply unplug the input and output cables and plug them directly together... of course there would be no hipass filter and the subs would produce whatever they could frequency wise...

    First though... check your input mixer and see if it is balanced (should be at -0- dB) etting the same

    Next check that your stereo linked (both channels getting the GEQ)

    Check that the limiters and the compressors are all off or exactly the same..

    be sure that the sub synth isn't on.. on one channel and not the other.

    Try those things and report back, that should eliminate cables, modules, and tell you if it's the amp...

    I have the 3000 and I just made up a jack pannel... euroblock out to an XLR like a normal amp

    Gadget
  • xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
    Umm, so apparently my troubleshooting skills are nil. Here I was with an SPL meter in one hand and a VOM in the other preparing to measure stuff when the obvious completely escaped me. :oops:

    Anway, thanks Gadget. I swapped the output of the DR260 and the problem still existed on the original side. So, now we're down to the amp's output or the sub itself. Everything else has the balance set correctly, and I'm using the DSP Off preset on the amp. I'll follow a few more steps and keep you posted.

    Thanks!
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    No worries mate...when you have as much crap as I do, trouble shooting is a hourly activity. The old axioms still apply though. Divide and conquer...eliminate all possibilities, and what your left with must be the truth...

    Resistance on the subs might be a good place to start, but the best is probably the speaker wires (the whole divide thing :mrgreen: ) swap them and if the problem follows...

    Have you verified the cables from the DR to the amp... :? of course you have... sorry...

    Gadget
  • xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
    Popped the lid on the CDi and noticed the following on the linked photo (come on DBX, increase the file size capability and timeout of this forum) . I measured 2V on the heatsink that I've circled in yellow, and I noticed there seems to be an area that was overheated as well, also circled.

    http://img15.imageshack.us/i/img1818bj.jpg/
  • xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
    Thanks! Yep, when I swapped the cables between the DR and the CDi, I checked for continuity. All appear good. They're wired the same as well. Yep, next in the chain is the connections to the subs. Fingers crossed, because the subs were DIY, and though they are quite good, each driver would be much cheaper to replace than the CDi...


    Gadget wrote:
    No worries mate...when you have as much crap as I do, trouble shooting is a hourly activity. The old axioms still apply though. Divide and conquer...eliminate all possibilities, and what your left with must be the truth...

    Resistance on the subs might be a good place to start, but the best is probably the speaker wires (the whole divide thing :mrgreen: ) swap them and if the problem follows...

    Have you verified the cables from the DR to the amp... :? of course you have... sorry...

    Gadget
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Which DIY sub did you do?
    G
  • xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
    They're made in China from Parts Express. I use the Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 in a 2 cu ft sealed enclosure stuffed with fiberglass (OC403). Overall, I'm happy with their sound definition, but there's always room for improvement. It would have been a nightmare without the PEQs on the DR.

    Edit: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=295-464
  • GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    I built a bunch of these...
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=300-640
    and they sound extremely good for the money..ike em WAY better than my JBL studio monitors...
    G
  • xyriumxyrium Posts: 30
    Nice. PE puts out some good kits. However, if you want to check out the Madisound kits, I think you'll be very happy. John Krutke designed a Scanspeak-based kit that I assembled (the ZRT). I assembled the modified xover though because I use them nearfield, a little less baffle step comp.
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