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Cant get it to sound right?
M0rph3us
Posts: 4
Hi Folks, I'm a new driverack PX owner, My Current rig is as follows
2 X LD Audio Systems Passive 15" Subs
8Ohm
500W RMS
1000W peak
40Hz - 200Hz
2 X LD Systems Active 15"/1" tops
8Ohm
500W RMS
1000W Peak
50Hz - 19Khz
The tops are active cabs and have a speakon output to power the subs, however this was bringing the clipping light on all the time and we think that it may be due to the amps not really having enough grun to power the subs, sooo we got a separate amp.
EUROPOWER EPX2000
Professional 2,000-Watt Light Weight Stereo Power Amplifier
2 x 1,000 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 650 Watts into 4 Ohms; 2,000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)
We have the sub outs going to the Amp and the mid/tops going to the line in on the tops, after going through the auto setup proccess (no need for feedback filtering as it's just having CD's played through it) and it sounds terrible! there's no bottom end at all and the auto eq keeps taking all the bass out? As the subs can only go to 200Hz I've manually set the crossover too 160Hz but to be honest I'm not sure what the other settings should be, as this set up isnt in the factory presets it's a bit hit and miss.
The bass is missing that bad that at first we thought it must have been out of phase as 1K RMS of bass should be pretty hefty, the mid and top is lovely and crisp....cant fault it at all but the lack of bottom end grunt is driving me mad. Can anybody give me any advice on setting it up for these speakers?
regards
Jason (pod)
2 X LD Audio Systems Passive 15" Subs
8Ohm
500W RMS
1000W peak
40Hz - 200Hz
2 X LD Systems Active 15"/1" tops
8Ohm
500W RMS
1000W Peak
50Hz - 19Khz
The tops are active cabs and have a speakon output to power the subs, however this was bringing the clipping light on all the time and we think that it may be due to the amps not really having enough grun to power the subs, sooo we got a separate amp.
EUROPOWER EPX2000
Professional 2,000-Watt Light Weight Stereo Power Amplifier
2 x 1,000 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 650 Watts into 4 Ohms; 2,000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)
We have the sub outs going to the Amp and the mid/tops going to the line in on the tops, after going through the auto setup proccess (no need for feedback filtering as it's just having CD's played through it) and it sounds terrible! there's no bottom end at all and the auto eq keeps taking all the bass out? As the subs can only go to 200Hz I've manually set the crossover too 160Hz but to be honest I'm not sure what the other settings should be, as this set up isnt in the factory presets it's a bit hit and miss.
The bass is missing that bad that at first we thought it must have been out of phase as 1K RMS of bass should be pretty hefty, the mid and top is lovely and crisp....cant fault it at all but the lack of bottom end grunt is driving me mad. Can anybody give me any advice on setting it up for these speakers?
regards
Jason (pod)
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Gadget
It's got me really baffled, we tried to eq the system with the mic in various positions and each time it just cuts the bass at around 50Hz and it's quite a wide cut too so it takes nearly all the bass out
Heres the links to the speakers I haveThis is a link to the Mid/tops
http://www.ld-systems.com/223-1-15-stinger-download-pool.html?file=bGRfZWIxNTJfc3BlY3NfZW4ucGRm
These are the subs
http://www.ld-systems.com/228-1-15-stinger-passive-subwoofer-download-pool.html?file=bGRfc3Rpbmdlcl9lc3ViX3Bhc3Npdl8xNV9lbi5wZGY=
And this is the amp that I'm using for the passive subs
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/EPX2000.aspx
regards
Jason
The manual is DEAD WRONG on this and believe me we have tried to get them to address this issue. You need to understand that the only real way to auto EQ indoors is to set up one stack only, set the mic on a towel or other soft surface ON THE FLOOR about 20-25 feet out, aimed at the speakers.
You also have to understand the BECAUSE of standing waves, everything below 170 hz has to be looked at as suspect (that the Auto EQ does) in other words your better to eq these frequencies using your ears...
I just HATE speaker manufacturers that put out systems and don't provide all the information... like a simple 3dB down point! A 10 dB down point is USELESS! and no frequency plot or impedance chart... but then I expect this sort of thing form Adam hall...but I digress..
Further, YOU did not provide the setup info I asked for.. so here is what you want to do
Set up (in the wizard) or use any preset with stereo tops and stereo subs,
set the HPF of the subs @ 47.5hz BW18
set the LPF for the subs @ 100hz LR24
Set the LPF for the tops @ 100hz LR24
Use the setup above and the mic position suggested and see what happens, then, view the product EQ curve and view ANY major cut or boost with suspicion! Use your EARS to adjust those frequencies
READ this:
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=959
And check out these:
viewforum.php?f=60
The FAQ's are your friend.. and have a LOT of info on setup and optimization... especially check the posts about Auto EQ
Gadget
Thanks for taking the time to reply, I used to install competition systems in cars and PA is a new direction for me, however standing waves and so on are a familiar thing to me, the one thing I didnt count on was poor equipment at the venue, I've taken my own mixer today and plugged it in to the DBX and the sound was phenominal, after no changes at all! plugged the venues mixer back in and it was shocking, we then fed the output from the in house mixer in to smaart and it was showing absoloutely NO bottom end coming through with pink noise, so from this I believe the rig had eq'd spot on but the signal source was the issue, I've even fed my ipod in via a couple XLR adapters and the bottom end is exceptional now with pin sharp clarity further up the range. I can say hand on heart that the rig has never sounded soooo good
Once again thaanks for your time