New equipment

itlbtu2

First of all hello, my name is Dusty, ive been a silent lurker for a couple weeks now. Trying to pick up on all I can.
Our band has recently upgraded some equipment and I wanted to make a list of what we have and how it is proposed to be setup and ask if anyone sees any problems.

We currently have
Mackie 12 ch mixer
Rack rider
PA+
Samson SX-1200
QSC PLX 1602
QSC PLX 2402

Samson monitors (soon to be jrx112m)
JBL JRX115 x 2
JBL JRX118 x 2 (havent arrived yet)

The plx1600 running jrx125's needs to be set with clip limit off, LF filter off, Parallel on 4,5,6, bridge off ??
Patching channel 2 to the channel 1 input on the 2402 running the exact same settings only running the jrx118's

Does all that sound correct?

Do the 125's go high side of the drive rack with the samson monitors in the mid and 118's in the low side?

Sorry for being such a newbie

Thanks for any help.

Gadget

hmmmm

So, is it JRX125 or JRX115 tops? are you using a preset?

Are you running mono FOH and only 1 monitor send?

Have you seen this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=2228

The plx1600 running jrx125's needs to be set with clip limit off, LF filter off, Parallel on 4,5,6, bridge off ??
Patching channel 2 to the channel 1 input on the 2402 running the exact same settings only running the jrx118's

That is so confusing I have no idea what you are asking...
Gadget

itlbtu2

They are JRX 125 (two fifteen's and a horn) im not sure what preset we used off the top of my head.

I have amps set for stereo, parallel @ 4ohm.

Basically i was going over the dip switches on the back of the amps making sure it was correct ohm and power wise for my speakers.

Should I disable the Clip limit and lf filter on the amp and just use the drpa+?

Thanks for the help.

Gadget

Well, your at about 700watts for the subs...ok for DJ work, but short of power for live music... You cannot bridge, and engaging the limiter will lower the power output by about 30%

You'll have about 500 watts for the tops, again you are short of power... (more than the above.. like at the minimum recommended power for the tops) and again you cannot bridge...

The minimum impedance for bridged operation is 4 ohms on those amps.

You would NOT have a preset to use the DR as a tops/subs and one monitor send... (you didn't answer all the questions)

Please take the time to fully form questions and answer the questions we pose...

Did you read the material provided?

sorry, but your being too vague
gadget

Dra

IF you can swing a little extra cash, you could add another 1602 (used $350 now on Ebay). Put one each (bridged @1600w) on your subs and move the 2402 to the tops (for 200w extra, yeah not much, but.....). Later get another 2402 (used now on Ebay for $450-500) and make the swap to put the 2402s (bridged @ 2400w) on each sub and the 1602's on the tops. ....or go straight to the 2402's now on the subs, yada yada yada.
Don't you hate answers that tell you to spend more money?

A trick that many sound dudes will use for their sub amps if they don't have enough power... (DON'T do this for the tops. You'll pop a horn.)... when setting the gain structure, allow a healthy clip on the amp on the kick hits. A pulsing clip light on subs will roughly double your wattage (not volume) to your subs on those peaks. It also increases distortion. A lot of people like a little distortion on their subs. It makes them SOUND louder. This technique should be used wisely and prudently. If used, turn the amps limiter off like you said, and set the PRPA's limiter to prevent the "allowed clipping" from getting out of hand.

There is more than one way to skin a cat. But remember, they have claws.

DRA

Gadget

:shock: :shock: :shock:

A trick that many sound dudes will use for their sub amps if they don't have enough power... (DON'T do this for the tops. You'll pop a horn.)... when setting the gain structure, allow a healthy clip on the amp on the kick hits. A pulsing clip light on subs will roughly double your wattage (not volume) to your subs on those peaks. It also increases distortion. A lot of people like a little distortion on their subs. It makes them SOUND louder.

:shock: :shock: :shock:

The 2043-G driver is notoriously easy to melt(rated 350w), the cabinet is made of MDF :roll:

MAYBE... with a more robust speaker you MIGHT want to risk that.... maybe not so much

Sorry I call em like I see em...

In that light... NO to the bridged 2400 for sub duty, and NO to a bridged 1602 for anything less than live sound (like NOT for CD/DJ playback) too much power for those pitiful drivers...and they are $150 to recone!

If you can call off the purchase... get Peavey SP118 for about the same money and get a REAL sub...

Gadget

itlbtu2

Thanks for the replys.

I have read, and re-read the linked information and it is sinking in.

None of our band members were aware of the jbl shortfalls. I am really new to this game and wish that i would have started this thread and ask some different questions before the purchase. With that being said, we own the 125's and one 118 bottom. (thought we ordered two......i was misinformed.) so we will half to make due with what we have got.

You were 100% correct...no preset.

We will be installing everything in the gig rig Monday evening (hopefully) and setting up.

We were using the PA+ temporarily with our old setup just to get a feel for it. I think we can set it up adequetly. (save that for another thread)

Please glance over the amp settings and advise.

1. Qsc plx1602 stereo parallel mode with clip & lf filters disabled powering the 125's
2. Plx 2402 mono with clip & lf filters disabled powering the single 118.
Would it be beneficial to run the tops with the 2402 and the sub with the 1602?
Should we run our monitors through the PA+?

Thank you all for the help.

Gadget

Yes run the 2402 for the tops and bridge the 1602 on the single sub...

You could run a single monitor mix with the PA+ the thread describing this is here:
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=2228

Gadget