PA SYSTEM JBL PRX600+DRIVERACK PA+ HELP ME

maniak1981

hello all
I have 4x JBL PRX 625 and 4x JBL PRX 618 S XLF, how to connect the speakers to DRIVERACK PA +, how to set up the PA system, where you set the subs? on stage or in front of the stage?
ask experts for help for me, if my PA system suitable for medium outdoor events
Thank you for your help
Lukas

Gadget

Unfortunately, those boxes @ 90 degrees horizontal...would provide 360 degrees of coverage (without overlapping coverages in the HF region that would cause all manor of sonic chaos) Also your going to be somewhat short on bass for livesound purposes especially...

With that in mind you'll want to keep the subs together, and on the ground...I'd cross somewhere around 90hz LR24 and center cluster the subs making sure that the fronts of the subs and the tops are parallel, you don't have enough delay for other locations.

I don't know that that's anywhere near enough system for outdoor events, maybe acoustic type but full on rock....probably not.

Gadget

Gadget

I deleted your duplicate post...one is sufficient.

Gadget (moderator)

maniak1981

I was referring to events of 1000-1500 people, sorry for the duplicate of my post, I did not know where to put my question, I think prx600 will be a lot better playing with driverack pa +, up to now I used prx600 without driverack

Gadget

Agreed, but I still think your system is a bit small for 1000-1500...

maniak1981

before I used the top 2xMACKIE 1232 and 1801 SWA 2xMACKIE as subs, a total of about 3.5 kW, and now my PA system to 10kW; much better it sounds, this also bought digital mixer SOUNDCRAFT SICOMPACT, previously did not use any devices DRIVERACK, as is now connected to the DR +: subs to LOW, top to HI and the HI and MID, as will be the best, how to set the Crossover in the DR PA + etc

Gadget

I answered you in my first post...

With that in mind you'll want to keep the subs together, and on the ground...I'd cross somewhere around 90hz LR24 and center cluster the subs making sure that the fronts of the subs and the tops are parallel, you don't have enough delay for other locations.

Let the subs be their own HPF...
gadget

Mctwins

maniak1981 wrote:

before I used the top 2xMACKIE 1232 and 1801 SWA 2xMACKIE as subs, a total of about 3.5 kW, and now my PA system to 10kW; much better it sounds, this also bought digital mixer SOUNDCRAFT SICOMPACT, previously did not use any devices DRIVERACK, as is now connected to the DR +: subs to LOW, top to HI and the HI and MID, as will be the best, how to set the Crossover in the DR PA + etc

Hi
Really don't understand why and how you are using the MID here.

Just use LOWOUT and HIGHOUT from your PA+ and daisychain then the cables to the next speakers, like this..

LOWOUT(left) to sub(PRX618) and daisychain it to the next sub(PRX618).

HIGHOUT(left) to main(PRX625) and daisychain it to the next main(PRX625).

and set it as two way config in the PA+ and you are ready to go...

Thanks

Gadget

He wants to use 2 of the 4 tops for delay towers... WITHOUT the delay...

maniak1981

how to set levels of the speakers and subs on the back of the amplifier? if I set the max? How the levels set in DRIVERACK PA +?

Gadget

12 o'clock position on the tops and most likely cranked on the subs... (just a guess I have never seen those speakers) Perhaps McTwins will give us his input, he has them...
G

Mctwins

Hi
Yes, it's true that I have them. PRX635 and 618S-XLF

First, turn down the level knobs on each PRX.

Maximize the signal from your mixer to PA+ input with a test CD pink noise and make sure that it is not clipping on the input of the PA+. Then, turn up the knobs of each PRX so the clipping light start to flicker. DON'T TURN IT UP AT MAX LEVEL. Use earplugs when doing this.

Use the setting list for the PRX600 series in PA+. Use 2x4 config and daisychain to the next set of speakers or use 1x2 if you are gonna use mono for the subs.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Gadget

Yo Mc,
Where do the subs end up with respect to the tops.. like tops 1 o'clock , and subs 3 o'clock? This would be the answer I would be looking for. I would assume the tops can run away from the subs pretty easily?

He has the 625, but essentially fairly similar I assume, save a better midrange I would assume?

Thanks
G

Mctwins

Hi
I have on my 618 around 11 o'clock and on my 635 around 10 o'clock.

On my pre amp I have fullvolume(100%) when running my pink noise and it goes into the yellow input barlevel but never red . Because my preamp is unbalanced unit I also have the switch on PA+ at -10dBV.

I am using the setting for 635 and subs in PA+. X-over setting is as follow..

2x4 config.

Low; OUT
High; 118Hz, BW18

x-over gain both low and high; zero

On my subs(backpanel) I have the button "x-over in/out" in out position because I am running my sub in fullrange. This button is mainly used if one use a sub and main in the same signal chain. When daisy chain from sub to main the button has to be in IN position.

I have the same SPL level at my listening position between sub and main. One can always adjust the level at the back of the speakers knob instead of PA+ x-over gain.

That's it.

Thanks

Gadget

So then your subs are about 6dB lower output than the tops? 3dB + the 3dB bump for floor loading?

Mctwins

Gadget wrote:

So then your subs are about 6dB lower output than the tops? 3dB + the 3dB bump for floor loading?

Hmmm...

In my case I had the opposite. A couple of dB higher on the subs compared to the mains.
I measured with a SPL(C) at listening pos with pink noise CD. I chose to lower the knobs on the subs backpanel, and in turn gain more headroom
for the subs.

Thanks

Gadget

Ah I got it backwards, so, your telling me that the subs actually have MORE output on a 1 to 1 basis than the 535 tops? THAT would be unusual!Especially since the typical horn efficiency is in the area of 105dB and the typical sub speaker is 95dB efficient.. a 10dB differential.

I see the 635 is rated @ 135dB max and the 618ELF @ 133 and we can assume that the efficiency is rated in the speakers most efficient band, and not across the board. But I assume that they tried to make these more plug and play and attempted to make them work together without too many issues.