Advice on configuration?
Maxxarcade
Posts: 12
I've read though the "Start Here" thread, which was a great deal of help. I've been using the PA+ for a few weeks now.
I was just looking for general advice on some settings, since most of my stuff does not have presets.
Here is what I'm working with:
Driverack PA+ w/ RTA mic
QSC MX1500 (Tops, and I use the RMX1850HD Preset)
2x bridged Crown K2 (1 per side for each pair of subs)
Right now a single K2 is running one pair of subs, in normal stereo mode. The second amp and subs are still being rebuilt.
4x EAW SB180 (Subs, 2 per side)
These use RCF L18P200-N drivers.
http://www.eaw.com/info/EAW/Loudspeaker ... asheet.pdf
1 pair Cerwin Vega 300 SE (Tops)
25Hz-20Khz, 255 Watts, 12" Woofer, 6" midrange, horn tweeter
These are great speakers by themselves, and I like the smooth highs they have compared to a lot of cheap horn tweeters in the lower end pro stuff. Nonetheless I'm considering trading them towards a pair of EAW tops some day.
Until I read the Start Here info, I had been using the automatic setup on the PA+ instead of stopping and doing gain structure. The highs were always coming out way too loud. I'm looking forward to setting it up properly this time.
I like lots and lots of bass. Some of the club music I play goes down to 28Hz or so, and I use the subharmonic synth as well. The room is 20x15 feet, but has a lot of cancellations that drive me crazy. In some spots, the bass goes away almost completely, and in the next room stuff is falling off the shelves.
I've been debating bi-amping the CV's, but I'm not sure how I would do that since they are a 3 way speaker.
I was just looking for general advice on some settings, since most of my stuff does not have presets.
Here is what I'm working with:
Driverack PA+ w/ RTA mic
QSC MX1500 (Tops, and I use the RMX1850HD Preset)
2x bridged Crown K2 (1 per side for each pair of subs)
Right now a single K2 is running one pair of subs, in normal stereo mode. The second amp and subs are still being rebuilt.
4x EAW SB180 (Subs, 2 per side)
These use RCF L18P200-N drivers.
http://www.eaw.com/info/EAW/Loudspeaker ... asheet.pdf
1 pair Cerwin Vega 300 SE (Tops)
25Hz-20Khz, 255 Watts, 12" Woofer, 6" midrange, horn tweeter
These are great speakers by themselves, and I like the smooth highs they have compared to a lot of cheap horn tweeters in the lower end pro stuff. Nonetheless I'm considering trading them towards a pair of EAW tops some day.
Until I read the Start Here info, I had been using the automatic setup on the PA+ instead of stopping and doing gain structure. The highs were always coming out way too loud. I'm looking forward to setting it up properly this time.
I like lots and lots of bass. Some of the club music I play goes down to 28Hz or so, and I use the subharmonic synth as well. The room is 20x15 feet, but has a lot of cancellations that drive me crazy. In some spots, the bass goes away almost completely, and in the next room stuff is falling off the shelves.
I've been debating bi-amping the CV's, but I'm not sure how I would do that since they are a 3 way speaker.
0
Comments
"Presets? We done need no stinkin presets!"
Hi, I guess there is a question in there somewhere? I know your looking for advice, and that you have read the Start here thread, but how about some of the specific threads dealing with this stuff in the FAQ section, or the links I provided in the FAQ section? You say you have rooms you have good bass and ones that you can't get bass to save your soul... The answer to these questions and more are in the reading, but lets look at the LF for a second...In the FAQ section we discuss missing Kick drum frequencies:
http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes ... lation.cfm
These same principles can be applied to other problems you are experiencing... and it's all about placement. In the rooms where you have problems you need to try moving the subs around ...
Look at this site:
http://webphysics.davidson.edu/Applets/ ... fault.html
The subs (2) are in the center of the room...move one to the very corner of the room... lets as right lower as if it were behind us (as DJ's) in the corner. Note that the white lines are bass waves and the black is silence (lack of bass). Now move the other sub (red dot) and place it right on top of the other dot next, move the dot slightly (touching) the other dot...note how the waves went from clear and concise to slight shading, now move the dot slowly to the left and see the bass DISAPPEAR form the whole left side of the room!
Playing with the dots you can start see how placement can allow you to "steer" the bass, direct bass away form some areas, focus bass on some areas...
Place one dot at X=5.5 and y=7.5 place the other x=5.1 and y=6.7 note that the whole room is bass less, only the stage has bass...
Here is another tool that may help explain what is happening in some rooms.
http://www.mcsquared.com/metricmodes.htm
When I return we'll talk actual settings, but for now I must go..
Gadget
Awesome info in those links. I will try moving some stuff this weekend. I wish the room wasn't so constraining. The ceiling is only 6.5 feet high as well. Maybe I need to install some absorbent material on the walls.
Current version http://www.eaw.com/products/SB180z.html
Ya, but I think the ones I have are from the 90's. The ports probably aren't tuned optimally for the drivers either. I have 3 different style boxes that I am working on. My original pair has rectangular ports. I recently picked up another pair of cabinets that have round ports. One has 7" long ports, and the other has 12" long. They must have changed drivers a couple times, but as far as i know they have always been RCF L18P200 series.
These boxes need some TLC, but I got them far cheaper than buying new. Sometimes the cost of pro audio stuff really shocks me, but I've been addicted to it after messing with consumer stuff all my life. And I think there is still more watts for the dollar with pro stuff.