Home dbx User Forum dbx Archive Threads DriverRack PA & DriveRack PA+ PA General Discussion
Options

Archive :: DriveRack PA [PA+] help/schematic

TeeroyTeeroy Posts: 13
edited August 2014 in PA General Discussion
The below is a very, very old thread I found in the "archive" section I wanted to resuscitate. Perhaps the original posters are still lurking about. There is some incomplete data and mis-information I'd like to correct...

============================

CalPoly

(unregistered)
 

Subject:

DriveRack PA help/schematic

05/08/2003

looking for a schematic, want to convert the piece for 12v operation. a professor of mine said to search for a photofact manual. anyone have info? thank you


Robert Boatright (dbx)

(unregistered)
 

Subject:

DriveRack PA help/schematic

05/09/2003

I think your best bet would be to run an inverter off of 12VDC and then power the PA from the inverter. The PA would take unkindly to being powered from +12V for several reasons. One of the most significant, however, is the fact that the audio path is powered by +/-15VDC rails... There's just not enough headroom/dynamic range available from 12V.


lee patzius

(unregistered)
 

Subject:

DriveRack PA help/schematic

05/10/2003

Great Idea! I was extremely surprized to find inverters for sale "off the shelf" at Walgreens here in St. Louis. Walmart has them too, and the QT truck stop centers also have them, including the high powered ones that require the use of battery clamps. But walgreens sells 12vdc to 120vac 400 watt/800 watt peak inverters with cigarette lighter plug connectors for something like $40 to $60 or so. I can't remember the exact price, but it seemed very reasonable.

Lee

Comments

  • Options
    TeeroyTeeroy Posts: 13
    Firstly, an inverter isn't the "best" avenue for powering you DriveRacks in a 12VDC environment. It is however the "easiest" method though... With that said, not all inverters are created equally, and especially so with the garden variety inverters one can find on shelf at their local Walgreens !! Should one want to explore this route, your search should start with the so-called, "Pure" or "True" Sine Wave inverters, (not available at Walgreens). What one would find there will probably be a Modified Sine Wave . Where a true sine wave has a smooth transition between the poisitive an negative swings, the modified sines are more like stair steps. Think, a pixelated photo or weak digital TV signal, making the interpretation of the sine... Generally speaking the more (smaller) steps up and down the better, and thusly, more expensive. The better the sine output of the inverter, the more efficient and cleaner the power supply within the DriveRack will run.

    Now, if you connect a DriveRack to your inverter in a vehicle how are you going to power up and power down the processor and/or the inverter gracefully with the ignition? Do you really want to turn off your car and then remember to make a trip to the trunk to switch off the DRPA and inverter? Even without a load on the inverter, it is sitting there idling making AC and as such slowly draining you battery. There are of course mechanisms to account for this but adds cost and complexity. One option is to add an automotive 12VDC DPST relay to chassis ground side of the inverters DC input--only supplying ground when the ignition is on and the relay's coil is energized. Now here again, you get what you pay for. Everytime you hit the ignition switch, the relay engages and your cheap, bargin basement, poorly filtered inverter is gonna send a nasty AC voltage spike straight into your expensive processor, that your DriveRack's P/S is gonna have to compensate for. So, now you wanna look for an inverter that has a "soft-start" feature. Still, just more cost. Meatloaf said it best, "...there ain't no Coupe de Ville at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box."

    If you are still convinced to go the inverter route, look at something like the, MorningStar SureSine: http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/sure-sine. What I like about this one is it has remote terminals that when shorted turn on the unit. You can then tie these to a relay, energized by the ignition, to turn the inverter on an off. The specs say nothing of a soft-start feature though.

    Now, the *best* solution is to convert your rig for true 12VDC operation. This however is not for the faint of heart. I don't know what, "Robert Boatright (dbx)" is talking about above? Not enough voltage, really? Now if your car's 12 volts can create 115 volts of AC with an inverter, it sure as heck can make another ~5 or so volts of DC! Going back to the inverters for a moment, over simplifying, the power supply in these inverters have two main sections. A DC to DC Converter section and a Switching section. The DC to DC Converter section takes the car's 12 volts of DC and boosts it to ~130VDC !! Then the Switching section turns this voltage on and off at periodic rate that makes it look like an AC Sine Wave. Getting back to converting you processor. While it is true, the DRPA's Analog Signal voltage rails works on +15 AND -15 VDC, it also uses +5VDC for Digital Signal, AND again, a rock solid, steady, +3.3VDC (no more, no less) for the DSPs...

    Taking a page from the inverter's play-book, you just need a couple of DC to DC Converters. But instead of a DC voltage that is north of 100+ volts, you just need converters with an output of 18VDC or so. You may be able to find *isolated* Converters outputting ~18V but most, with the kinda voltage you need, are spec'd for 24. At 24V out you'll need to regulate or "trim" it down to 18 before entering the DR's power supply. There are even dual output DC to DC converters that will give you both the plus (+) and minus (-) rails on one converter module.

    I have used (2) single output 24 volt modules before to convert a Rane AC23B Crossover and a Yamaha YDG-2030 EQ for use in my Sound Quality competition vehicle. The DC converters I used were the single output, Vicor VI-J00 Series: http://www.vicorpower.com/cms/home/prod ... converters. In this arrangement we, (EE friend and me), tied the (+) output of module "A" to the (-) output of module "B". These being tied together provides the Common Reference of the DR's +/-15 voltage rails. Then, the (-) output of module "A" is -15 volts to Reference. The (+) output of module "B" is +15 volts to Reference. Vicor provides a great Applications Manual to get you started. You can also purchase the Vicor prototype/modeling board and ape their design. Also, have a look at the, muRata UQQ Series of DC to DC Converter: http://www.murata-ps.com/en/products/dc ... s/uqq.html.

    These are all overkill in the application of powering the DriveRack alone and are also as expensive as the high quality inverters. There is a fella, Douglas/Doug Winker, that lurks about on the DIYMobileAudio forum that has designed a 12VDC power supply for the DR 260. He too may be able to help ya (if you can get ahold of him)...

    Cheers!
  • Options
    GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    Lee Patzius is a friend and is still around, but not here... He is an electrical engineer and can most likely be found @ the PSW...Not exactly sure why you brought this back but ok...
  • Options
    TeeroyTeeroy Posts: 13
    I too was searching around on Google for schematics and info on converting the DriveRack and the post I copied in, bubbled to the top. There is a community (albeit small) that want to run pro-audio in their cars. It used to be the Rane gear now more the dbx stuff. Just as a "PSA", I wanted to provide a little insight into the matter. All apologies if I came off as condescending. I have a tendance to do that, but not intentionally. Just wanting to get those started in the "right" direction.
  • Options
    GadgetGadget Posts: 4,915
    No, not a problem, I was just interested to know why you brought up a really old thread...that's all...
  • Options
    Teeroy wrote:
    The below is a very, very old thread I found in the "archive" section I wanted to resuscitate. Perhaps the original posters are still lurking about. There is some incomplete data and mis-information I'd like to correct...

    ============================

    CalPoly

    (unregistered)
     

    Subject:

    DriveRack PA help/schematic

    05/08/2003

    looking for a schematic, want to convert the piece for 12v operation. a professor of mine said to search for a photofact manual. anyone have info? thank you


    Robert Boatright (dbx)

    (unregistered)
     

    Subject:

    DriveRack PA help/schematic

    05/09/2003

    I think your best bet would be to run an inverter off of 12VDC and then power the PA from the inverter. The PA would take unkindly to being powered from +12V for several reasons. One of the most significant, however, is the fact that the audio path is powered by +/-15VDC rails... There's just not enough headroom/dynamic range available from 12V.


    lee patzius

    (unregistered)
     

    Subject:

    DriveRack PA help/schematic

    05/10/2003

    Great Idea! I was extremely surprized to find inverters for sale "off the shelf" at Walgreens here in St. Louis. Walmart has them too, and the QT truck stop centers also have them, including the high powered ones that require the use of battery clamps. But walgreens sells 12vdc to 120vac 400 watt/800 watt peak inverters with cigarette lighter plug connectors for something like $40 to $60 or so. I can't remember the exact price, but it seemed very reasonable.

    Lee
    I may order one tomorrow they look pretty cool. Waiting to see if Sweet - Vapes has a one day Easter sale like they do on most holidays.
  • Options
    FornaxFornax Posts: 4
    I, too have an interest in using a driverack PA+ powered from a DC source (or sources, if necessary). I have indeed run it off an inverter from a 12V source, which is a viable solution, and doesn't require a large inverter, as the load is small. However, I'm interested in eliminating unnecessary components, and would also like to see a schematic of the PA+.
    Although it's obvious that this circuit doesn't have a place to provide a single DC source (like a 12V battery), it should still be possible, if DC sources of varying voltages are available, to bypass the AC circuit.
    Here's what I do know: the toroidal xformer puts out one secondary voltage at 10V (pair of red wires) and one secondary voltage at +/-17V (blue/white/blue). These are connected to the circuit board by a 5-pin connector at P7.
    Presumably these are then run through bridge rectifiers to convert to DC voltages.
    So question one would be: where are the connections "downstream" of these rectifiers, so that the appropriate DC voltage could be connected at that point.
    A second question would be if the rectifier circuit is adequately rated to have DC voltage applied to the AC side of the rectifier (which should still pass through the circuit, but essentially the full load would be handled by only half the diodes). This would make for far simpler connections, as the wires to the P7 plug could be used.
    Now, I know that dbx will not be caught giving their blessing to such outrageous modifications, but if they'd be willing to talk in hypotheticals, or at least simply address the ratings of their components and give information to their loyal customers, they can still claim to be innocent of aiding and abetting...
  • Options
    FornaxFornax Posts: 4
    Thanks, Jdragon, for the partial schematic that applied to this issue.
Sign In or Register to comment.