PEQ question with EAW subs
Maxxarcade
Posts: 12
I'm a bit confused with the settings listed here:
http://www.eaw.com/info/EAW/Processor_S ... ttings.pdf
I'm using the SB180. There is no mention of Shelf settings, so I'm not sure how this would translate to actual config on the PEQ of the DRPA+. Do they just want a 5db boost at the center frequency of 30Hz?
On a side note, room cancellations are a pain! I have 6 of these subs in a 15x20 basement room, stacked on their sides 2 wide by 3 high, with the tops on either side. Standing 6 feet away, there isn't much bass, but in the next room, things are bouncing around like crazy. I really need to get some acoustic treatment if it ever becomes affordable.
http://www.eaw.com/info/EAW/Processor_S ... ttings.pdf
I'm using the SB180. There is no mention of Shelf settings, so I'm not sure how this would translate to actual config on the PEQ of the DRPA+. Do they just want a 5db boost at the center frequency of 30Hz?
On a side note, room cancellations are a pain! I have 6 of these subs in a 15x20 basement room, stacked on their sides 2 wide by 3 high, with the tops on either side. Standing 6 feet away, there isn't much bass, but in the next room, things are bouncing around like crazy. I really need to get some acoustic treatment if it ever becomes affordable.
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Comments
The HPF for the subs is 20 hz (LOL) BW 24...you better have MASSIVE power available.. and there ain't NO way those subs will do 20hz...
Personally I don't like setting the crossover point on top of the kick drum 1st harmonic...I'd raise it up, to 90-118hz BW18 and be done with it...We also find that the LR24 transition point between top and subs to be very symmetric and pleasing sonically.. the LR24 slope has a 360 degree phase differential that just sounds more musical...
The Shelf or Bell parametrics are selected.
Bell: All bell
Low shelf: Shelf on the low side and 2 bells on the high.
High shelf: Shelf on the high side and 2 bells on the low.
Hi-Lo shelf: Shelf on the high side, shelf on the low side, and a bell in the middle.
Press the DATA wheel until the "Type" is selected them turn the wheel to scroll through the 3 choices.
DRA
EAW spec'd bell for 30Hz and I think the OP wanted to confirm it was bell and not shelf
I am currently using 4 bridged Crown K2's on the subs, a Crown K1 on the mids, and a QSC RMX850 on the highs. I'll experiment with the PEQ this weekend and see how it goes. If I need more power on the mids I can swap in a Yamaha P5000S that I have laying around.
The subs use RCF L18P200-N drivers. I have them rolled off at 25Hz and 100Hz right now. They will play as low as 27Hz or so before they start to really drop off.
My tops are sealed 15" 2 way cabs with Eminence Delta Pro 15A for the mids and Selenium D220Ti on fairly large horns for the highs. I plan on building another pair eventually so I can double them up.
Correct, I was wondering if EAW just wanted a single bell at 30Hz. It confused me because they listed the "type" as parametric, without saying shelf or bell specifically.
At least that make me look smart after the fact.
DRA
Are you sure all of your subs are in polarity with each other? Plug in a mic and gently thump it into your palm....are all of the subs moving in the same direction? Lets assume they are and they are in normal polarity. What happens if you reverse the polarity of all 6 subs...what effect does it have on the bass response in your room and in the next room?
A 9Volt batter can also go a long way toward determining polarity problems... with all but some JBL drivers .. plus to + and Minus to - should elicit an outward cone motion...This could also be room modes, or boundary cancellation depending on if were talking kick drum or overall low end response...
The room is an acoustic nightmare. It's basically a 15x20 room that's L shaped, and has a 6.5 foot ceiling and a concrete floor. If I'm standing near the back wall or on either side of the subs, I have great bass. But it seems to cancel at certain frequencies right at my sitting position in the middle of the room. The speakers are on the longest wall, facing into the 15 foot wide half of the room. I really need to rearrange everything so that the speakers can be on the far end of the room.
I also got the PEQ set up and working fine, and I just need to tweak everything up again. I have a Dayton Omnimic V2 that will help out with some of the setup. The auto EQ on the DRPA+ tends to kill the bass and bring the mids up too high for my taste. Maybe I'm just a bass head LOL.
A nine volt battery is great for testing a speaker box.....at work, we have a bunch of 9V testers built up with switches that can test a 4 way box. The method I suggested will test everything from the mic to the speakers in one motion. Of course it won't tell you where the problem is but just knowing for sure there is a problem somewhere in the chain is half the battle.
you have tested only your speakers and speaker cables but not the rest of the system
Also, try moving the subs to the CENTER of the room...and see what happens...Next move them to the corner... in the position you have them that could WELL be the problem...
http://webphysics.davidson.edu/Applets/ ... fault.html
Move the red dots around and see what happens, without actually modeling the room in it's actuality you cannot even begin to figure out what is exactly happening..
Try the placement changes even if only using 1 sub... and report back...
Yep, moving them is definitely in the plans. I just need to get a couple people to help, and also need to make space. The room is currently used for storage at the moment and only has a couple narrow areas to walk.
I had some fun with the system last night though. Turned it up for about a minute, and the bass caused a light bulb in the ceiling above the subs to unscrew itself and shatter on the floor. I would love to move the room around and get that kind of output where I normally sit
Since the subs are pretty much omnidirectional, where they are facing is a tiny issue compared to where they are located.
True, I almost forgot about that. I guess I'm still used to dealing with regular 2 or 3 way home speakers, and how they need to be oriented just right for the best sound stage.