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Help setting up Drive Rack Px on Yamaha DSR Powered speakers

aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
edited September 2013 in DriveRack PX
I own a driverack px and I tried using it several times on my Yamaha dsr115 and dsr118 powered speakers and my subwoofers. It worked superb the first time I used it but when I tried using it again and again it didn't produce the results. Instead the kick and the bass were coming from the tops and not from the subwoofers. Please assist maybe I am missing something. I was very impressed with the results I heard the first time I used. My speakers and my subwoofers produced oustanding results that day. I also tried looking for solutions on the dbx forum but could not find anything relating to my product

Comments

  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Did you use a canned preset, or did you set one up using the wizard?

    DRA
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    I used a wizard setup
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    Did you save the preset (press Store 3 times)? What program # position did you use?
    What x-over settings did you use for the filters?
    DRA
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    Yes I did save the preset. I did not change any x-over settings. How do I do that? Do I do that first before I start using the wizard?
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    See page 28.
    Press the Set-up button.
    100hz LR24 would be a good start for the transition between highs and lows. You must set it on both filters.
    How are they set now?

    DRA
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    I will check and let you know. Do you think it will be worthwhile to get the driverack 260? Will it work on powered speakers or is the px made specifically for powered speakers?
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    The PX (PA, 260, etc) do not know (or care) what is connected. The 260 is worth every penny, and more. If it is in your budget.
    I have 3 DRPAs and a 260. After I bought my first DRPA, I knew I should have waited a bit and saved a few more dollars to get the 260. The DRPA is better than a PX, more features and more flexibility. The 260 is way more flexible than a DRPA. However, if the DRPX suits your needs...

    DRA
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    So I should get the 260?
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    It is currently on 100hz LR12 5.0dB (out) and 50Hz BW6 -5.0dB (sub)
  • aaronnkosiaaronnkosi Posts: 26
    also 35.5Hz BW6 -5.0dB (sub)
  • DraDra Posts: 3,777
    As written, that is very confusing.
    The filters should have this format.
    HPF (high pass filter (low cut)) - LPF (low pass filter (high cut)). Each filter has 2 pages that have to be set. One for HPF, and one for LPF. The upper left of the screen tells you which output filter is active. Use the Next and Previous buttons to move one to the other.
    Subs: 35hz BW18 - 100hz LR24
    Tops: 100hz LR24 - out
    When you push the set-up button, the first parameter will be the subs HPF. The "hz" should be high-lighted. If not, press the data wheel until it is. Turn the data wheel to set the "hz" to 100. Press the data wheel until the slope type (BW6, BW12, LR12, LR24, etc) is high-lighted, then turn the data wheel until LR24 is shown. Press the data wheel until the gain "db" is high-lighted. Turn data wheel until 0db (for now) is reached.
    Press the Next Page button.
    This is still the sub's filter, but now will adjust the LPF. Follow the above steps to set 35hz BW18.
    Press the next Page button.
    Use the same procedure to set 100hz LR24, and 0db.
    Done.

    As far as the 260 goes, download / watch the tutorial. Then, download the Driveware GUI and play around with it. If $750 is in your budget ($500, or so, if you buy used), it is money well spent.

    DRA
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