See Kevin, and you thought I was extreme :? I particularly liked the \"Unobtanium\" and the \":This amazing driver is capable of going as low as -500 antiherz!\" Looks like a perfect match to the Crown \"Belchfire\" amps...Speaking of that what's the news on the \"BOOM BOOM\" front?
Nightrider, I assume you were trying to get GONZO to read the FAQ..
Gonzo...I think you start trying to EQ a room and your brain is going to explode and kill every living thing in the building... :shock: It takes knowledge to use the Auto EQ ...It's NOT a slap up a mic and ta da! perfect sound... it just doesn't work that way. You need to know what your doing and why...
since you seem determined to use those dissimilar speakers even against all the negative advise.. put both similar speakers on one side, invert one speaker on top of the other on each side so that the horns are together. They will couple better that way...and try and not overlap left and right coverage patterns any more than necessary...
On the speakers again....finances are not suited for me to hop in my hoopty and pick up speakers other than what I have now. I must work with what I have.
The room I'll be DJing in this coming 29th will require that I throw more sound out as I'm playing in a larger than my normal room for venues. I'll be DJing upon the conclusion of good ole Gary Sinise and his band, Lt Dan Band and we are expecting a crowd of up to 1,200 Marines, Sailors, and Navy personnel.
I may pick up a second sub for this venue....but as it stands now...I'll be playing with what I've outlined.
For someone in your position (\"knucklehead\"), using the auto-EQ for room adjustments is going to create problems and bad sound. I'd leave it alone. Set your x-over up as we've recommended and let it fly.
For someone in your position ("knucklehead"), using the auto-EQ for room adjustments is going to create problems and bad sound. I'd leave it alone. Set your x-over up as we've recommended and let it fly.
DRA
Then it's on. Guess I'm just getting overworked on thinking about this. My current settings seem to be working just fine. Hell, atleast it sounds better than when I was using my Aphex 204 Aural Exciter and Optical Big Bottom.
put both similar speakers on one side, invert one speaker on top of the other on each side so that the horns are together. They will couple better that way...and try and not overlap left and right coverage patterns any more than necessary...
Gadget, I'm not grasping the visual on this one.... Please elaborate.
Put 153's on one side and 152's on the other .
Set 153-1 as you normally would, then set 153-2 upside down on top of the 153-1, so that the horns are together.
Same with the 152's.
Put the sub on one side with the 153's on top of it. Put the 152's on the other side up on something similar in height to the sub.
Put 153's on one side and 152's on the other .
Set 153-1 as you normally would, then set 153-2 upside down on top of the 153-1, so that the horns are together.
Same with the 152's.
Put the sub on one side with the 153's on top of it. Put the 152's on the other side up on something similar in height to the sub.
DRA
Okay....interesting.... Bit worried about my speakers falling from vibration. I'll be pumping up the music pretty loud. I've never done this before and am worried about them falling either hurting someone or damaging my speakers.
In addition to the drivers I have also purchased all of the hardware... I have contacted two companies (SSI Manufacturing and another) with CNC router capability, and now working on the construction drawings per suggestions of both companies... Drawings should be in AutoCAD 2000 .dfx format, two dimensional as much as possible, dimensions in decimal, and all lines to be single poly-lines so they can be easily interpreted to G-code... Every detail is being worked-out,...down to the T-Nut selection (Stafast press-fit hopper style for edge mounting), mounting hole diameters, etc., etc... Once these are completed then I will meet with both companies for review and to see if they offer any suggestions in regards to construction... I have also contacted Linearx (maker of LMS) and Goldline (maker of TEF25) in regards to response measurement... I'm moving forward as quick as my available resources will allow, but it's still taking some time (being a perfectionist)...:D
Here are the latest Hornresp and AJ Horn SPL response plots based on the current design... These plots are for one cab corner loaded (0.5Pi) or four cabs coupled together in open space (2.0Pi)... As you can see Hornresp and AJ Horn predict an identical response...:D I'm thinking HPF BW18@40Hz / LPF LR24@100Hz...
Hornresp
AJ Horn
The following is my first attempt (did this yesterday) to model it with Akabak... Right now I have far more confidence in Hornresp and AJ Horn... With Akabak you have to build networks using script...and I don't think I have it down very well yet... I also set the measuring distance to 40cm to get plot that's even similar to the 1 meter response of Hornresp and AJ Horn...:x
Okay guys....looking at tweaking the DriveRack to the best settings adviseable. I had received a few responses when I had initially started this thread a few months ago, but I want to rehash this.
Please do not forget that I'm not near as knowledgeable as many of you are when it comes to audio. I can keep a dancefloor packed, but when it comes to settings for sound....I'm on the low end of the spectrum.
The other week I picked up my 2nd Cerwin Vega JE-36 18\" Folded Sub-Woofer. I've not been using my main system for a few months, but I'm now getting ready to run it nearly every day for a two week period coming up in November, so I'm wanting to ensure I get with the brains of setting up the PA to assist.
Should I run my mixer in stereo or mono? I have been running in stereo for years, but I've heard around that there's no need to run in stereo. What would the advantages or disadvantages be either way?
I'd like to know what you all would recommend on the settings for these configs:
A lot of dance music has \"stereo for effect\". As a DJ, go stereo.
Didn't we hash this out already?
How are you running it now?
How do you think you should set them up?
What loads are each of these speakers? What are the wattages of the speakers (define as continuous or program)?
What are the outputs by load of the amps (stereo & bridged)?
Thanks Dra. We have discussed a couple setups in the past. I haven't used my speakers and DriveRack PA system in a few months and haven't changed any settings since.
I have the DriveRack PA set to the default DJ setting.
How do I think I should set them up? Not being a smart ass...but if I knew, then I wouldn't hound you all for assistance.
(2) Cerwin Vega V153 (3-way)
Frequency Response: 40 Hz - 30 kHz
Power Handling: Program: 400 Watts, Peak: 800 Watts
Sensitivity: (1 watt/1meter) 104 dB
Max. SPL @ rated input: (1 meter) 130 dB
Nominal Dispersion: (H x V) 60° x 40° @ 2 kHz
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Components: Low Frequency: 15\" woofer with an intense 1.6 tesla field. Diecast aluminum frame
Mid Frequency: 1\" compression driver with ferrofluid cooling and proprietary dual-flare horn.
High Frequency: High efficiency bi-morph driver.
Crossover: 3-way passive; 3.5 kHz and 10 kHz.
I do plan on times using my V-152 speakers with my V-153 speakers in parallel.
(2) Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers (2-way):
103 dB sensitivity @ 1 watt / 1 m
15\" woofer with diecast aluminum frame
Components LF: 15\" woofer with an intense 1.6 tesla field, die-cast aluminum frame, HF: High-efficiency bi-morph drive with proprietary spherical waveguide flare
Frequency Response: 40Hz - 30kHz
Power Handling, Program: 300 watts, Peak: 600 watts
Nominal Dispersion: 70 x 70 @ 4kHz
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Crossover: 2-way passive; 3.5 kHz
How do I think I should set them up? Not being a smart ass...but if I knew, then I wouldn't hound you all for assistance.
You missed the point. I didn't ask you to do it yourself, I asked you what you thought that you should do. To think a little. To play out the what ifs.
What are the outputs by load of the amps (stereo & bridged)?
What are the outputs by load of the amps (stereo & bridged)?
Dra, here's the info on the amps:
Yamaha P7000S(click on brand for hyperlink):
Output Power (1kHz THD+N=1%)
4 ohms per channel - 1,100w
8 ohms per channel - 750w
8 ohms / Bridge - 2,000w
Output Power (20Hz-20kHz THD+N=0.1%)
4 ohms per channel - 950w
8 ohms per channel - 700w / 650w (230v)
8 ohms / Bridge - 1,900w
Output Power (1kHz 20mS nonclip)
2 ohms per channel - 1,600w
4 ohms per channel - 3,200w
Crown Power-Tech 3.1(click on brand for hyperlink):
Output Power 60 Hz Units, Stereo Mode, Per Channel, Both Channels Driven (1 kHz with 0.1% THD)
4 ohms per channel - 760w
8 ohms per channel - 540w
4th Config:
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-153 Speakers
- (1) Crown Power Tech 3.1 Power Amplifier (For Tops)
Because you are under powered on your tops and nothing you can do about it with what you have we will not bridge the subs. I will also assume that you want to run stereo (source).
When you speak of under powering my tops, please elaborate, and if you don't mind, recommend the power of an amp I would want to invest in to better power my tops.
I don't want to put my speakers at too much risk of blowing them. I have heard of others who have blown their speakers not because of overpowering them, but underpowering them. I believe I have fallen victim to such an instance as well. Back in 1998 when I was running a QSC USA 900 Powered Amplifier (240w @ 8 ohms) on my Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers (300w @ Program), I had blown the tweeter. I'm more than positive it was due to my under powering the speakers. Luckily I didn't do more damage to the speakers as I had been running this setup for a few years....eeeesh.
Comments
Nightrider, I assume you were trying to get GONZO to read the FAQ..
Gonzo...I think you start trying to EQ a room and your brain is going to explode and kill every living thing in the building... :shock: It takes knowledge to use the Auto EQ ...It's NOT a slap up a mic and ta da! perfect sound... it just doesn't work that way. You need to know what your doing and why...
since you seem determined to use those dissimilar speakers even against all the negative advise.. put both similar speakers on one side, invert one speaker on top of the other on each side so that the horns are together. They will couple better that way...and try and not overlap left and right coverage patterns any more than necessary...
Gadget
On the speakers again....finances are not suited for me to hop in my hoopty and pick up speakers other than what I have now. I must work with what I have.
The room I'll be DJing in this coming 29th will require that I throw more sound out as I'm playing in a larger than my normal room for venues. I'll be DJing upon the conclusion of good ole Gary Sinise and his band, Lt Dan Band and we are expecting a crowd of up to 1,200 Marines, Sailors, and Navy personnel.
I may pick up a second sub for this venue....but as it stands now...I'll be playing with what I've outlined.
DRA
Then it's on.
DRA
Nah, it's actually a Sir Mix-A-Lot track.
DRA
Gadget, I'm not grasping the visual on this one.... Please elaborate.
Set 153-1 as you normally would, then set 153-2 upside down on top of the 153-1, so that the horns are together.
Same with the 152's.
Put the sub on one side with the 153's on top of it. Put the 152's on the other side up on something similar in height to the sub.
DRA
Okay....interesting.... Bit worried about my speakers falling from vibration. I'll be pumping up the music pretty loud. I've never done this before and am worried about them falling either hurting someone or damaging my speakers.
DRA
Thanks again.
G
In addition to the drivers I have also purchased all of the hardware... I have contacted two companies (SSI Manufacturing and another) with CNC router capability, and now working on the construction drawings per suggestions of both companies... Drawings should be in AutoCAD 2000 .dfx format, two dimensional as much as possible, dimensions in decimal, and all lines to be single poly-lines so they can be easily interpreted to G-code... Every detail is being worked-out,...down to the T-Nut selection (Stafast press-fit hopper style for edge mounting), mounting hole diameters, etc., etc... Once these are completed then I will meet with both companies for review and to see if they offer any suggestions in regards to construction... I have also contacted Linearx (maker of LMS) and Goldline (maker of TEF25) in regards to response measurement... I'm moving forward as quick as my available resources will allow, but it's still taking some time (being a perfectionist)...:D
Here are the latest Hornresp and AJ Horn SPL response plots based on the current design... These plots are for one cab corner loaded (0.5Pi) or four cabs coupled together in open space (2.0Pi)... As you can see Hornresp and AJ Horn predict an identical response...:D I'm thinking HPF BW18@40Hz / LPF LR24@100Hz...
Hornresp
AJ Horn
The following is my first attempt (did this yesterday) to model it with Akabak... Right now I have far more confidence in Hornresp and AJ Horn... With Akabak you have to build networks using script...and I don't think I have it down very well yet... I also set the measuring distance to 40cm to get plot that's even similar to the 1 meter response of Hornresp and AJ Horn...:x
Akabak
Cheers!
Kev
Please do not forget that I'm not near as knowledgeable as many of you are when it comes to audio. I can keep a dancefloor packed, but when it comes to settings for sound....I'm on the low end of the spectrum.
The other week I picked up my 2nd Cerwin Vega JE-36 18\" Folded Sub-Woofer. I've not been using my main system for a few months, but I'm now getting ready to run it nearly every day for a two week period coming up in November, so I'm wanting to ensure I get with the brains of setting up the PA to assist.
Should I run my mixer in stereo or mono? I have been running in stereo for years, but I've heard around that there's no need to run in stereo. What would the advantages or disadvantages be either way?
I'd like to know what you all would recommend on the settings for these configs:
1st Config:
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-153 Speakers
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers
- (2) Cerwin Vega JE-36 Folded Subwoofer
- (1) Crown Power Tech 3.1 Power Amplifier (For Tops)
- (1) Yamaha P7000S Power Amplifier (For Subs)
2nd Config:
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-153 Speakers
- (2) Cerwin Vega JE-36 Folded Subwoofer
- (1) Crown Power Tech 3.1 Power Amplifier (For Tops)
- (1) Yamaha P7000S Power Amplifier (For Subs)
3rd Config:
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-153 Speakers
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers
- (1) Crown Power Tech 3.1 Power Amplifier (For Tops)
4th Config:
- (2) Cerwin Vega V-153 Speakers
- (1) Crown Power Tech 3.1 Power Amplifier (For Tops)
Assistance on finalizing the settings for my DriveRack PA is greatly appreciated.
Didn't we hash this out already?
How are you running it now?
How do you think you should set them up?
What loads are each of these speakers? What are the wattages of the speakers (define as continuous or program)?
What are the outputs by load of the amps (stereo & bridged)?
DRA
I have the DriveRack PA set to the default DJ setting.
How do I think I should set them up? Not being a smart ass...but if I knew, then I wouldn't hound you all for assistance.
(2) Cerwin Vega V153 (3-way)
Frequency Response: 40 Hz - 30 kHz
Power Handling: Program: 400 Watts, Peak: 800 Watts
Sensitivity: (1 watt/1meter) 104 dB
Max. SPL @ rated input: (1 meter) 130 dB
Nominal Dispersion: (H x V) 60° x 40° @ 2 kHz
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Components: Low Frequency: 15\" woofer with an intense 1.6 tesla field. Diecast aluminum frame
Mid Frequency: 1\" compression driver with ferrofluid cooling and proprietary dual-flare horn.
High Frequency: High efficiency bi-morph driver.
Crossover: 3-way passive; 3.5 kHz and 10 kHz.
I do plan on times using my V-152 speakers with my V-153 speakers in parallel.
(2) Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers (2-way):
103 dB sensitivity @ 1 watt / 1 m
15\" woofer with diecast aluminum frame
Components LF: 15\" woofer with an intense 1.6 tesla field, die-cast aluminum frame, HF: High-efficiency bi-morph drive with proprietary spherical waveguide flare
Frequency Response: 40Hz - 30kHz
Power Handling, Program: 300 watts, Peak: 600 watts
Nominal Dispersion: 70 x 70 @ 4kHz
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Crossover: 2-way passive; 3.5 kHz
(2) Cerwin Vega JE36 18\" Folded Subwoofers
Frequency Response: 35 Hz - 300 Hz
Power Handling: Program: 500 Watts Peak: 1000 Watts
Sensitivity: (1watt/1meter) 106 dB @ 50hz (110dB @ 200Hz)
Nominal Impedance: 8 ohms
Components: Low Frequency: (1) 18\" woofer with 3\" voice coil. Diecast aluminum frame.
Aluminum heat sink with 371 in2 surface area.
Crossover: None
Connections: (2) Neutrik SpeakonTM 4-pin connector with pin selector option (2) 1/4\" phone jacks.
Enclosure: 3/4\" plywood cabinet
You missed the point. I didn't ask you to do it yourself, I asked you what you thought that you should do. To think a little. To play out the what ifs.
DRA
Dra, here's the info on the amps:
Yamaha P7000S (click on brand for hyperlink):
Output Power (1kHz THD+N=1%)
4 ohms per channel - 1,100w
8 ohms per channel - 750w
8 ohms / Bridge - 2,000w
Output Power (20Hz-20kHz THD+N=0.1%)
4 ohms per channel - 950w
8 ohms per channel - 700w / 650w (230v)
8 ohms / Bridge - 1,900w
Output Power (1kHz 20mS nonclip)
2 ohms per channel - 1,600w
4 ohms per channel - 3,200w
Crown Power-Tech 3.1 (click on brand for hyperlink):
Output Power 60 Hz Units, Stereo Mode, Per Channel, Both Channels Driven (1 kHz with 0.1% THD)
4 ohms per channel - 760w
8 ohms per channel - 540w
Output Power, 60 Hz Units, Bridge Mono Mode (1 kHz with 0.1% THD)
8 ohms - 1,525w
16 ohms - 1,090w
Output Power, 60 Hz Units, Parallel Mono Mode (1 kHz with 0.1% THD)
2 ohms - 1,530w
4 ohms - 1,080w
Thanks again Dra for your help in setting up optimal configurations for my DriveRack PA.
Because you are under powered on your tops and nothing you can do about it with what you have we will not bridge the subs. I will also assume that you want to run stereo (source).
#1
2 x 4 set-up
Subs: 45hz BW18 - 90hz LR24
Tops: 92hz LR24
#2
2 x 4 set-up
Subs: 45hz BW18 - 100hz LR24
Tops: 102hz LR24
#3
2 x 2 set-up
Tops: 50hz BW18
#4
2 x 2 set-up
Tops: 50hz BW18
When you speak of under powering my tops, please elaborate, and if you don't mind, recommend the power of an amp I would want to invest in to better power my tops.
I don't want to put my speakers at too much risk of blowing them. I have heard of others who have blown their speakers not because of overpowering them, but underpowering them. I believe I have fallen victim to such an instance as well. Back in 1998 when I was running a QSC USA 900 Powered Amplifier (240w @ 8 ohms) on my Cerwin Vega V-152 Speakers (300w @ Program), I had blown the tweeter. I'm more than positive it was due to my under powering the speakers. Luckily I didn't do more damage to the speakers as I had been running this setup for a few years....eeeesh.
Gadget