Played lastnight's gig. The music played from the mp3 player or CD....sounded great. Nice level of bass, nice lvel og highs, and it jammed. The Live music......well it wasn't there. The sound check we did earlier sounded fine. I reset the EQ thinking I had done something wrong with the adjustments and no improvements were made.
Heres the problems encountered:
Live sound substantially lower than the music we played between sets with both amps brought all the way up to there non clipping point.
Mixer gain procedure for each channel, Solo switch in PFL mode. Gain sweept to stay around 0db. The mixer main volume was @ unity and when the band was playing the LED on the mixer was hitting 10 db causing the clip light to come up every so often in the drive rack. I turned the main down at that point.
I ended up having tp turn the gain up in the drums cause I couldn't hear them at all. It seems that I have a lot more work to be done and especially with the Level Setting procedure. I followed the Mixer's recommended procedure and never seemed this problem before.
I figured after hearing the product when playing a CD (awesome!) that I'd be pretty much done.
I may have to breakdown and just hire someone. All I have is my guitarist saying \"it sounds like poop.\" I need a little more details than that.
Help me guys!!!
Well for one I noticed it looks like you didn't BRIDGE the amp on the subs... that would give you MUCH more low end... Pre recorded music is HEAVILY compressed...live music isn't... It's all a balancing game... you need to find someone with a good ear to sit and work with the board while you play, you can't do both...you can sit and mix the rest of the band, but not play and mix at the same time...until you get it set up and get really good at doing both... Once the system is set you only need to d o tweaks, but the various players need to control their own dynamics, in other words .. the guitar player needs to have a solo volume... the keys too... when setting up the various instruments make them so that they sound huge... then back them off, not the other way around. this should get you in the ballpark...Live sound take MORE POWER than recorded music, it's more dynamic...
Use the PFL on each channel to see where the level for that channel is actually at, if it's signal is low, use the gain nob at the top of the individual channel to get it pumping...Remember to start @ or about the Design center of the channel fader -0-...
Gadget
Live sound substantially lower than the music we played between sets with both amps brought all the way up to there non clipping point.
CD's will always sound better than live music in a small sound system
Don't forget that the band have had a week to record, weeks to mix and experts to compress.
Don’t be discouraged.
I always play CD's in breaks at a lower level and sometimes eq the CD so it doesn’t sound good.
Makes you and the band sound better.
Mark
I got a pro out to help me with some of my issues. I needed it. He tweaked the subgroups for me, and ran the effects through a channel (channel 14) and the mp3 through Channels 15 and 16 ( right and left)
He brought in a Spectrum anylizer and started messing with the settings on the EQ aspect of it. First thing that came to mind was \"you can't EQ a room.\" Once he finished that he added some overall compression and put in some subsynth @ 40%. He added the same delay that I had swept earlier for with Gadgets tips.
Bottom line it sounded better. A lot better. Not as muddy. Now I know why. I had GEQ'ed the overall mix to flavor the MP3 or CD that was playing. I had the source coming from the tape in versus the RCA coming into the mixer by R into 15 and L going into 16 and flavoring the mix there. Now I have a flatter response that can be EQed on the Mixer.
I have gone over the past entries I have made to see about getting biamped. I have the QW4's however @ ohms my XTI 4000 only puts out 650 watts to a 2600 watt speaker.....not even close. So our little 300 watt active PR 15's have been put up instead and the sound is WAY better.
I have heard that I may be able to set up one XTI 4000 to power the mids of the system ( 2 pairs 15\" drivers total) and use the other XTI 4000 to power the rest: Channel 1 for the pair of B-52 18\" subs, and Channel two for the Horns.
This makes for a mono system, however I was also told that for a live Rock band a Mono versus Stereo sound is not critical.
Gadget what do you think....I was gonna just splurge on another XTI 4000 and run it one amp for each QW4 bridged mono giving me 2400watts each side, and my same xti 4000 for the pair of lows.
Actually those speakers are 4 ohms, so you'd have 1200 watts. Bi amp you'll lose less power, have greater output and more control, but again, you'd need some help... it ain't easy to do...and get right.
Fanny, my friend my system sounds BETTER than that compressed music crap...
I have posted in Peavey, and Harmony as you previously instructed Gadget. We'll see what I get from it. Most responses say that the QW4's sound not as good as the PR15's, that there must be setting problems with the Xover, EQ, ect.
I guess its not that they sound bad, but they cost three times the money and don't sound like it.
Am I right to understand that the Active PR15's are \"Biamped\", which I used the wizard for there xover settings in the DRPA, are going to sound more accurate due to the efficeint signal routing?
Yes those are bi-amped with 150 watts on the lo and 50 watts on the hi's with DDT compression. I can't believe those QW's don't kick ass.. I had heard they were good sounding? I can get you close with the settings. Unfortunately the peavey manual search is DOWN AGAIN... but you should have the manuals right? what are the crossover points according to the manual? Those 44xt 2\" exit horns should really crank!
Yeah, the should be cranking......the manuals I need to check because my buddy (in the band) picked up the speakers. I'll have him check at the store where we picked them up at and see. I wonder if Kevin's was any good that he posted previously on page 2? You had asked him if he got those numbers from Peavey but he never responded.
The little PR 15's sound really good for a low $$ speaker. I can only imagine the QW4 with the right tuning...
Nominal Efficiency 30%
RMS Power Rating 80 Watts above 1.0 kHz
Program Power Rating 160 Watts
Peak Power Rating 320 Watts
Lowest Recommended Crossover 500 Hz @ 12dB/octave
Sensitivity (SPL) 111dB w/ 80° x 40° horn
Voice Coil Diameter 4\" / 101mm
Voice Coil Material Edgewound Aluminum Ribbon
Diaphragm Material Titanium
Suspension Material Kapton
Flux Density 1.9 Tesla
Net Weight 10.5 kg. / 23.1 lbs.
And this regarding the the horn it's attached to...
# Constant directivity, Quadratic Throat Waveguide(TM) technology horn
# Coverage pattern: 90 degree H x 40 degree V
# 1.6 inch throat diameter
# Low frequency limit: 800 Hz
Therefore, With the horns frequency @ an 800 hz minimum, and an 80 watt above 1000 hz and a 4 inch voice coil I'd probably suggest 1100hz +- hz as the horn crossover. An amp that can produce 200 watts should be sufficient. Since you are low on power for the lo mids I would recommend a 118 hz crossover for the lo mids (QW4 -15\" speakers) and 111.4 hz for the subs, use an LR 24 filter Concentrate on the QW4's first and then add the subs. Use the new indoor method, in the \"read me first section\" there is also a way to determine delay.
Unbelievable...well I saved the PDF if you give me an email I can send it. They have the diagram that shows the 3 different harmonics. I'm gonna go ahead then and purchase a crown amp.
Between these:
XTI 1000 = DSP functions, and 275 watts @ 8ohms for $499.00
Xs 700 = 450 watts @ 8 ohms for $439.00 **sale do to discontinued
XLS 202 = 200 watts @ 8 ohms for $299.00
Any recommendation you think might be a better buy for the future?
Well I believe that there is a definite benefit in MORE POWER! but there is also a benefit in light weight and especially less power consumption. Thats the biggie there. Some would say an amp has a definite sound, some sound better than others. That is most likely subjective...However, since your going to run mono anyway, the XTI 1000 would provide 750 watts per driver in bridged mono! I think you could get a far better price on that amp from NSL (northern sound and light) since I can get an XTI 4000 for about $650... There are some other amps you might want to consider.. the Yamaha 'P' series are light, efficient and probably less money, but hey you do what you want! If I were hauling gear I'd NEVER buy a conventional amp again!!! Since we play in places with suspect power, efficiency is a BIG factor...The XTI and P series are all very efficient.
So, there are the criteria as I see them, now it's up to you!
Gary
Thanks. The NSL site was sweet. Saved some loot. Went with the XTI 1000 for uniformity and $$$. I orderd the speakon connections and will be making my own cables....much more $cost$ effective.
As soon as I get it fired up I'll follow the instructions you gave me a few months back along with the new info.
I take it I'll have to reverse phases and sweep the delay between the horns and mids...get them dialed in, then do it together with the subs.
The crossover settings......I'll try them and let you know how it sounds.
It's almost sounds like I understand all of this.
Thanks a million!
You know.. it does... Feels good tho doesn't it? Kinda like a great accomplishment. Remember though the axiom here is that \"the more you learn the less you know\" and that holds true for a long learning curve but then it starts leveling off and the only thing thats necessary is keeping up with technology.
I took the info out the VSX preset and got the Triamp setting for the QW4.
Horn=1203HZ to 2000HZ Gain -6db LR24 Flat
Mids=120HZ to 1400 Gain 0 LR24 Bes18
Lows=40HZ to 140 HZ Gain 0 bes24 LR24 ---- these are for QW18 subs
These are almost the same as Kev posted earlier in the post on page two from the GUI.
I have B 52 18\" folded subs..can I just use the same settings as the QW18's or do you recommend a different setting?
They also have settings for the PEQ's but I figure I can adjust PEQ as you guys do after performing an autoEQ.
PEQ's - If you would like the experience then auto EQ away. But, it will take you a while. Personally I'd plug in the settings THEN Auto EQ to check and tweek as neccessary.
Subs - Without looking, I'd say that the 2 subs will have different sensitivity (loundness per watt), so there would be a x-over gain difference. They will definately have sonic differences that will need changing with the PEQ. The horn loaded sub will not likely go as high as a front loaded reflex, so a x-over change is likely in order. All can be checked with the auto EQ outdoors.
PEQ's - If you would like the experience then auto EQ away. But, it will take you a while. Personally I'd plug in the settings THEN Auto EQ to check and tweek as neccessary.
Subs - Without looking, I'd say that the 2 subs will have different sensitivity (loundness per watt), so there would be a x-over gain difference. They will definately have sonic differences that will need changing with the PEQ. The horn loaded sub will not likely go as high as a front loaded reflex, so a x-over change is likely in order. All can be checked with the auto EQ outdoors.
DRA
Okay I'm in the process now of gathering the PEQ's. Sort of tough since the VsX has three per 6 outputs. I'll just choose the peak setting from each output. the bell or shelf settings I'm still lost with the DRPA, but they have a diagram I can try to use to see which looks the closest.
I have a xover setting for the subs now that sounds fine that gadget gave me....I just add to the delay from my XTi amps to get the correct timing.
If I unsderstand right, you don't understand what bell and shelp means in the set-up type. Is that right? If so, then Bell has ramp up and ramp down /\\, or ramp down and rump up \\/. Low shelf has a ramp up or down on the high side ____/. High shelf has ramp up or down on the low side \\_____. Shelves ask for a frequency and everything above (or below) will be boosted (or cut) all the way out at a slope \"S\" that you pick.
If you pick...
Bell - 3 bell filters (hi) 2 bells each (mid & lo)
H shelf - 2 bells & a high shelf (hi), 2 bells (mid), 2 bells (lo)
L shelf - 3 bells (hi), 2 bells (mid), 1 bell & a lo shelf (lo)
H L shelf - 2 bells & a high shelf (hi), 2 bells (mid), 1 bell & a low shelf (lo)
It's odd that all three bands have 1Khz with no gain. Well the good news is that you have enough filters in the DRPA. Entering the data is pretty straight forward. Just follow the prompts.
Sorry for the confusion...I like brain wrestling Actually you are correct sir, I am lost with the shelf, bells ect. I will look at the info you posted while I mess with the PEQ and hopefully it'll get clearer. The info does help.
So to make things a bit clearer, I have enough filters in the DRPA to set the PEQ's I posted? I thought it only allowed three PEQ's?
You actually have left overs, because the 1K filter is never used on any band.
Hi out = 3 PEQ filters (of one kind or another as configured)
Mid out = 2 PEQ filters (bell only, but don't quote me)
Lo out = 2 PEQ filters (of one kind or another as configured)
full range = 3 max
Bi-amp = 5 max (3 + 2)
Tri-amp = 7 max (3 + 2 + 2)
What Dra is beating around the bush about is.. 0.0 db is equal to NO cut and NO boost, or a big fat -0- as far as the 1khz filters... OR they aren't needed or used if what you posted is correct...
G
Okay...that makes sense. I wrote what was there on the preset. Don't shoot me guys.....still learning. I also learned its important to switch from +1/-1 to +2/-2 when biamping. But now the QW 4's JAM!!! Don't stand in front of the speakers now....the horns crank....piercing highs. Sounds awesome. Some parts of the song I've never noticed before.
Biamping is the \"ONLY\" way as Gadget posted earlier.
I did even sweep the delay yet...I just through 20msec from what I had on the full range before to rough it in cause I ran out of time and needed to pack the trailer.
I had a problem with 100hz getting pegged at about +7db or so. I used the crossover setting listed above with the PEQ's listed. I used an open one in the mids for 100hz and narrowed the Q with a bell at 6db. It didn't help to much leading me to believe it may be a crossover issue.
Auto EQ indoors below 170 hz is mostly useless due to standing waves...They couple and add in amplitude at different points in the room. A corner would be the only place that would fall out of that standing wave potential. Read the Auto EQ primers in the 'Read me first' section for hints on the best way to do Auto EQ.
That 20 ms delay seems wayyy to long.. I would have thought a few ms between horn and mid, and both an additional few ms (5-8ms maybe) to the subs. Hey I just noticed you have a DRPA... you only have 10ms per output... did you mean 2ms or there abouts?
I came up with that setting from when we had talked earlier. I believe you came up with a 17 to 18 msec due to the folded sub. When I swept the delay with the old speakers. I heard the difference around 18msec or so although it was very minimal. I may have heard wrong or jotted down the wrong info. I got the 20 from the DSP's in the Xti's I got. They got quite of bit of delay on them....pretty nice!
I'm gonna start the delay procedure again.
I just read Peavey's preset info on the delay for QW4's and it recommends .08ms on the horns and.09ms on the mids = .01ms difference. I'll just sweep the delay between the mids and sub at 100hz, find the timing and subtract .01ms from my findings. Does this make any sense or should I go another route?
Auto EQ indoors below 170 hz is mostly useless due to standing waves...They couple and add in amplitude at different points in the room. A corner would be the only place that would fall out of that standing wave potential. Read the Auto EQ primers in the 'Read me first' section for hints on the best way to do Auto EQ.
I performed the outdoor method. The timing on the auto EQ was pretty short considering I did it on med precision. I can try it indoors next chance I get if you think it'll be more accurate. I use the instructions posted on the "read me" section along with the gain setting procedure when I go through the motions, but I'll go over it again and see if I missed something.
Since I got a 100hz tone for sweeping the mids and subs and I'm getting the peak in that frequency after the auto EQ is that going to mess up my delay results?
Again my low crossover setting is : Highpass 45hz BW 18db
LowPass 125hz LR 24db 6.0db gain
Yes my mids are under powered. There are two 15\" woofers per side and they are calling for 2400 watts. I am pushing 650 with the Xti 4000.
The mid xover settings are from Peavey's site.
My subs are mono bridged and pushing 3200 watts with the speakers parallel.
Comments
Heres the problems encountered:
Live sound substantially lower than the music we played between sets with both amps brought all the way up to there non clipping point.
Mixer gain procedure for each channel, Solo switch in PFL mode. Gain sweept to stay around 0db. The mixer main volume was @ unity and when the band was playing the LED on the mixer was hitting 10 db causing the clip light to come up every so often in the drive rack. I turned the main down at that point.
I ended up having tp turn the gain up in the drums cause I couldn't hear them at all. It seems that I have a lot more work to be done and especially with the Level Setting procedure. I followed the Mixer's recommended procedure and never seemed this problem before.
I figured after hearing the product when playing a CD (awesome!) that I'd be pretty much done.
I may have to breakdown and just hire someone. All I have is my guitarist saying \"it sounds like poop.\" I need a little more details than that.
Help me guys!!!
Use the PFL on each channel to see where the level for that channel is actually at, if it's signal is low, use the gain nob at the top of the individual channel to get it pumping...Remember to start @ or about the Design center of the channel fader -0-...
Gadget
CD's will always sound better than live music in a small sound system
Don't forget that the band have had a week to record, weeks to mix and experts to compress.
Don’t be discouraged.
I always play CD's in breaks at a lower level and sometimes eq the CD so it doesn’t sound good.
Makes you and the band sound better.
Mark
He brought in a Spectrum anylizer and started messing with the settings on the EQ aspect of it. First thing that came to mind was \"you can't EQ a room.\" Once he finished that he added some overall compression and put in some subsynth @ 40%. He added the same delay that I had swept earlier for with Gadgets tips.
Bottom line it sounded better. A lot better. Not as muddy. Now I know why. I had GEQ'ed the overall mix to flavor the MP3 or CD that was playing. I had the source coming from the tape in versus the RCA coming into the mixer by R into 15 and L going into 16 and flavoring the mix there. Now I have a flatter response that can be EQed on the Mixer.
I have gone over the past entries I have made to see about getting biamped. I have the QW4's however @ ohms my XTI 4000 only puts out 650 watts to a 2600 watt speaker.....not even close. So our little 300 watt active PR 15's have been put up instead and the sound is WAY better.
I have heard that I may be able to set up one XTI 4000 to power the mids of the system ( 2 pairs 15\" drivers total) and use the other XTI 4000 to power the rest: Channel 1 for the pair of B-52 18\" subs, and Channel two for the Horns.
This makes for a mono system, however I was also told that for a live Rock band a Mono versus Stereo sound is not critical.
Gadget what do you think....I was gonna just splurge on another XTI 4000 and run it one amp for each QW4 bridged mono giving me 2400watts each side, and my same xti 4000 for the pair of lows.
Fanny, my friend my system sounds BETTER than that compressed music crap...
Gadget
I guess its not that they sound bad, but they cost three times the money and don't sound like it.
Am I right to understand that the Active PR15's are \"Biamped\", which I used the wizard for there xover settings in the DRPA, are going to sound more accurate due to the efficeint signal routing?
You might try the PSW lounge as well...
Gadget
The little PR 15's sound really good for a low $$ speaker. I can only imagine the QW4 with the right tuning...
P.S. indoor method EQ Rocked!!!
Specifications
Horn Throat Exit Diameter 2\" / 50.8mm (which has been decreased to 1.6 \" using an adaptor)
Impedance 8 ohms
Minimum Impedance 7.1 ohms
DC Resistance 6.8 ohms
Frequency Response 500 Hz - 20kHz
Nominal Efficiency 30%
RMS Power Rating 80 Watts above 1.0 kHz
Program Power Rating 160 Watts
Peak Power Rating 320 Watts
Lowest Recommended Crossover 500 Hz @ 12dB/octave
Sensitivity (SPL) 111dB w/ 80° x 40° horn
Voice Coil Diameter 4\" / 101mm
Voice Coil Material Edgewound Aluminum Ribbon
Diaphragm Material Titanium
Suspension Material Kapton
Flux Density 1.9 Tesla
Net Weight 10.5 kg. / 23.1 lbs.
And this regarding the the horn it's attached to...
# Constant directivity, Quadratic Throat Waveguide(TM) technology horn
# Coverage pattern: 90 degree H x 40 degree V
# 1.6 inch throat diameter
# Low frequency limit: 800 Hz
Therefore, With the horns frequency @ an 800 hz minimum, and an 80 watt above 1000 hz and a 4 inch voice coil I'd probably suggest 1100hz +- hz as the horn crossover. An amp that can produce 200 watts should be sufficient. Since you are low on power for the lo mids I would recommend a 118 hz crossover for the lo mids (QW4 -15\" speakers) and 111.4 hz for the subs, use an LR 24 filter Concentrate on the QW4's first and then add the subs. Use the new indoor method, in the \"read me first section\" there is also a way to determine delay.
Gadget
Between these:
XTI 1000 = DSP functions, and 275 watts @ 8ohms for $499.00
Xs 700 = 450 watts @ 8 ohms for $439.00 **sale do to discontinued
XLS 202 = 200 watts @ 8 ohms for $299.00
Any recommendation you think might be a better buy for the future?
Well I believe that there is a definite benefit in MORE POWER! but there is also a benefit in light weight and especially less power consumption. Thats the biggie there. Some would say an amp has a definite sound, some sound better than others. That is most likely subjective...However, since your going to run mono anyway, the XTI 1000 would provide 750 watts per driver in bridged mono! I think you could get a far better price on that amp from NSL (northern sound and light) since I can get an XTI 4000 for about $650... There are some other amps you might want to consider.. the Yamaha 'P' series are light, efficient and probably less money, but hey you do what you want! If I were hauling gear I'd NEVER buy a conventional amp again!!! Since we play in places with suspect power, efficiency is a BIG factor...The XTI and P series are all very efficient.
So, there are the criteria as I see them, now it's up to you!
Gary
As soon as I get it fired up I'll follow the instructions you gave me a few months back along with the new info.
I take it I'll have to reverse phases and sweep the delay between the horns and mids...get them dialed in, then do it together with the subs.
The crossover settings......I'll try them and let you know how it sounds.
It's almost sounds like I understand all of this.
Thanks a million!
Rock on...
Gadget
Horn=1203HZ to 2000HZ Gain -6db LR24 Flat
Mids=120HZ to 1400 Gain 0 LR24 Bes18
Lows=40HZ to 140 HZ Gain 0 bes24 LR24 ---- these are for QW18 subs
These are almost the same as Kev posted earlier in the post on page two from the GUI.
I have B 52 18\" folded subs..can I just use the same settings as the QW18's or do you recommend a different setting?
They also have settings for the PEQ's but I figure I can adjust PEQ as you guys do after performing an autoEQ.
Tell me what you think!!!
Thanks Gary!!
Ryan
Subs - Without looking, I'd say that the 2 subs will have different sensitivity (loundness per watt), so there would be a x-over gain difference. They will definately have sonic differences that will need changing with the PEQ. The horn loaded sub will not likely go as high as a front loaded reflex, so a x-over change is likely in order. All can be checked with the auto EQ outdoors.
DRA
Okay I'm in the process now of gathering the PEQ's. Sort of tough since the VsX has three per 6 outputs. I'll just choose the peak setting from each output. the bell or shelf settings I'm still lost with the DRPA, but they have a diagram I can try to use to see which looks the closest.
I have a xover setting for the subs now that sounds fine that gadget gave me....I just add to the delay from my XTi amps to get the correct timing.
Output - Lows
1.3 Khz 6 db 1.000 bandwidth (Q setting)
2.6 Khz -2.5db 0.500 bandwidth
1.0 Khz 0.0db 1.000 bandwidth
Output- Mids
1.0 Khz 0.0db 1.000 bandwidth
500 hz -2.0 db 0.600 bandwidth
Output - Highs
50hz 2.0 db 0.400 bandwidth
100 hz 6.0 db 0.800 bandwidth
1.0 Khz 0.0db 1.000 bandwidth
Opinons on how I should plug in these PEQ's?
if you can put what shelf/bell ect that will apply, that will help tremendously. Thanks!!
If you pick...
Bell - 3 bell filters (hi) 2 bells each (mid & lo)
H shelf - 2 bells & a high shelf (hi), 2 bells (mid), 2 bells (lo)
L shelf - 3 bells (hi), 2 bells (mid), 1 bell & a lo shelf (lo)
H L shelf - 2 bells & a high shelf (hi), 2 bells (mid), 1 bell & a low shelf (lo)
Hope that helps (if that was your question).
DRA
DRA
Sorry for the confusion...I like brain wrestling
So to make things a bit clearer, I have enough filters in the DRPA to set the PEQ's I posted? I thought it only allowed three PEQ's?
Thanks for the quick responses!!
Hi out = 3 PEQ filters (of one kind or another as configured)
Mid out = 2 PEQ filters (bell only, but don't quote me)
Lo out = 2 PEQ filters (of one kind or another as configured)
full range = 3 max
Bi-amp = 5 max (3 + 2)
Tri-amp = 7 max (3 + 2 + 2)
Help?
DRA
G
Biamping is the \"ONLY\" way as Gadget posted earlier.
I did even sweep the delay yet...I just through 20msec from what I had on the full range before to rough it in cause I ran out of time and needed to pack the trailer.
I had a problem with 100hz getting pegged at about +7db or so. I used the crossover setting listed above with the PEQ's listed. I used an open one in the mids for 100hz and narrowed the Q with a bell at 6db. It didn't help to much leading me to believe it may be a crossover issue.
That 20 ms delay seems wayyy to long.. I would have thought a few ms between horn and mid, and both an additional few ms (5-8ms maybe) to the subs. Hey I just noticed you have a DRPA... you only have 10ms per output... did you mean 2ms or there abouts?
Gadget
I came up with that setting from when we had talked earlier. I believe you came up with a 17 to 18 msec due to the folded sub. When I swept the delay with the old speakers. I heard the difference around 18msec or so although it was very minimal. I may have heard wrong or jotted down the wrong info. I got the 20 from the DSP's in the Xti's I got. They got quite of bit of delay on them....pretty nice!
I'm gonna start the delay procedure again.
I just read Peavey's preset info on the delay for QW4's and it recommends .08ms on the horns and.09ms on the mids = .01ms difference. I'll just sweep the delay between the mids and sub at 100hz, find the timing and subtract .01ms from my findings. Does this make any sense or should I go another route?
I performed the outdoor method. The timing on the auto EQ was pretty short considering I did it on med precision. I can try it indoors next chance I get if you think it'll be more accurate. I use the instructions posted on the "read me" section along with the gain setting procedure when I go through the motions, but I'll go over it again and see if I missed something.
As for the delay part I assumed DRPA since this is in the DRPA section...DOH
\"had a problem with 100hz getting pegged at about +7db or so.\" that is probably a peak spl for the subs.. what model are they again?
And yes you have so much more control with Bi-Amp
Gadget
http://www.b-52pro.com/models/LX18V2.html
Since I got a 100hz tone for sweeping the mids and subs and I'm getting the peak in that frequency after the auto EQ is that going to mess up my delay results?
Again my low crossover setting is : Highpass 45hz BW 18db
LowPass 125hz LR 24db 6.0db gain
Mids=120HZ to 1400 Gain 0 LR24 Bes18
Thanks Gadget!
gadget
The mid xover settings are from Peavey's site.
My subs are mono bridged and pushing 3200 watts with the speakers parallel.