Got my first DRPA in 03 I believe.. my first 260 shortly after they came out... the 260 had a checksum error that would wipe out all modified presets.. but you could (and should) back the unit up on a computer for just such an eventuality... Version 1.02 0f the software took care of that problem...In the following years I have had the primary 260 in a 5 night a week, perpetual gig ever since...5X52X5=1300+ gigs...NO problems. 2 DRPA's... weekly bar and weekend weddings... no failures other than having to solder the chip in on the first unit and ribbon cable re-seats... a couple times... the PX... 1+year and counting... bar Karaoke gigs, no glitches...4800... 2 + years 3 nights a week monitor duty MANY updates no glitches...
Now I have been the moderator and long time contributor here for ... well YEARS... I, DRa, Dennis, Kpippen, Mikey, Dr.J...NONE of us has ANY affiliation with DBX... were ALL volunteers...
I have seen some failures.. some units that needed hard resets, some that needed to be sent in. But as with any MFG you will have failures...The Crown your so proud of... the Itech amps have a TERRIBLE failure rate.. they have already been discontinued...in favor of the Itech HD. There were thousands and thousands of failures with them...JBL has had the TRX series DISCONTINUED in LESS than a YEAR! that's CRAZY...Digitech's TRS series was PLAGUED with failures...
Since I have had the Driverack in my systems I have drug around various Ashley, and Rane xovers as backups but have NEVER used any of them... :roll: nor would I want to...
The DriveRack PA+ navigates almost exactly like the DriveRack PA (it's kind of a hybrid between the PA and PX). You cannot just add and clear crossover points from the main programming screen.
Outputs (as well as available crossover points) are either pre-configured based upon the preset you have loaded or are activated based upon what is selected when you run through the System Setup Wizard. For example, just like the PA, PX and 260, when you go through the DriveRack PA+ and select a \"Passive\" main speaker along with \"None\" for your subs, the DriveRack will create a full range program because you told the DriveRack that this is what you are using. In this type of program only the high outputs would be active as full range. The mid and low outputs would not be active in such a program, therefore you will not have these additional crossover points available in this program.
If you wanted enough crossover points to configure a 3-Way system you would have to first select a preset which is pre-configured as 3-Way (meaning all outputs are active) or go through the System Setup Wizard and select a \"Bi-amped\" type main speakers along with subs. This would tell the DriveRack that you are running 3-Way and activate all outputs for you.
You must ensure to load these changes before you can do anything with this new program. Once the program has been loaded, if using a Custom program, you can skip the Auto Leveler by pressing the Preset button.
Now your program is loaded and you should be able to press the XOVER button and make changes to the crossover settings. None of these settings will be stored until you press the STORE button 3 times. You should then be able to come into this crossover and change the parameters at a later time (by pressing the XOVER button and navigating the crossover section) if needed.
Dennis, Everything works until I save the x over. Then, if I want to change I can add to the x over but can't remove a point. Lets say I want 150 low 800 mid and 1.6 high. I set and save the x over. then I want to try a 1.3 on the high ? I can't get rid of the 1.6 ? These are just numbers out of the air !! Can't just clear the program and start over. The x over is fixed. :?
you don't erase the setting, you would just sellect the 1.6 and move it to 1.3. I got confused with mine at first but it is real simple. pressing the next page button will scroll through the xover points (LHM) if you are in the xover section. where as the eq section requires you to press the eq button repeatably to scroll the LHM. the next page button on the EQ section flicks you through the different frequency points, for which ever of the LHM you may be currently on. this combined with the pressing and rotating of the jog wheel for even more functions and options can take a while to digest.
Not true....at least form my perspective...I received mine today, and it DOES navigate very much like the DRPA... you do the Wizard setup, then if you want to skip the functions after that (Auto level) simply press the \"preset\" button and then you can navigate the preset without saving it... you can then navigate with the front panel buttons and the rotary control and next> previous< buttons... you WILL need to save it after your done with the mods...in order to be able to recall the preset...however...Other than the rotary encoder, the buttons light up as you need to move through the sequence, guiding you through the process...
Questions?
Gadget
If I don't want stereo setup what lines out do I use ? Left ?
I see no need for stereo. Too many cables.
Does the leveling always take 3 or more minutes ? Can I bypass the leveling, do it myself and move on ?
Thanks Dra. That helps. I am getting the feel of it a bit. Got a couple weeks off so I plan on working with it without the club owners telling me to turn that noise off.
I think if I could by pass the leveling part things would go much faster. BUT it might not work as well. Will find out.
I have to add this !! 8) Gadget , in a early post said Crown amps gave a lot of trouble. I have been doing this, on small scale, for a long time. I am using a MA2400, a MI1200 and a Crest LA601 . I know they are 20 years old and could blow up tomorrow but they have served me well.
Kinda like Fords and Chevys. If you want to go fast, buy a Chevy. If you don't want to break down going to work tomorrow, buy a Ford !! SIMPLE.
No... I said Crown ITECH amps had a high failure rate...the CE 4000 also had a problematic star ground that caused problems... I have Mac 3600...2400...D series, they have served me extremely well...I was indicating every line has failures...
As for the rest...
By leveling are you talking about the auto level.. or the Auto eq? What procedure are you using... mic placement etc...
As for mono/stereo, I agree with one caveat... the effects sound MUCH better in stereo...well worth the xtra cablage...
G
I wanted to say so much abt this but thought better of it. no sarky comments from me.
Stereo sometimes isnt ideal for a venue but is a lot better if it can be used.
If you are reffering to which out puts to use if your just using the left/mono input. I imagine all the outputs are the same for what ever frequency part (low/mid/high) you are using. I'm not sure on this though, will check later.
Try plugging into the left and right input, check you have signal on the front meters, disconect the right input and see if it still displays activity on the right meters in the output section (says threshold above). if it does it's automaticly using the mono left input to feed the left & right outputs. I'm persuming you already have summed your sugnal from the mixer.
for the sake of a few extra cables I would use stereo though. as for the sake of a better sounding system you bought a drive rack.
With the DRPA if you set up a 2x2... ONLY the HI outs will have sound. If you select a 2X3 only the Hi outs and the left mono outs work...2X4 only the Hi outs and Lo outs will have sound...and if you select 2X6 all 6 outputs are hot...when you select a 2x2/2x3/2x4/2x5/2/6 ANY output can be set to handle some or all of the audio spectrum by simply dragging the HPF down to the frequency you want to set as a cutoff...
Some bands (many actually) put stereo as a requirement in their riders...many guitar and keyboard players insist on stereo...So if you plan to do hire work... plan on the xtra cables...
G
Sorry to be a pain. not that I would ever use it with just a mono input. if I feed just into the left input what output will have sound. thats what I think the other post asked. Could you do 1x6, 1x4, 1x2 etc. I relise the cross over points would still be in matching pairs, if the drive rack can do this.
I'm going to the club now to check. no need for reply, I will post the results.
Need more help !! In stereo mode I have lost 80% of my volume on the right side. Changed all patch cables. The mixer is fine.
The input LED is showing low signal coming to the Drive rack unit. The left is fine. Switching cables from the mixer does not change it.
Do I have another bad unit ?
I was just getting to like the stereo mix now I have screwed up something.
Did it all of a sudden drop? Are you using stereo GEQ? You said the right input meter is a lot less than the left? Do you have a pink noise source you can send to the DRPA?
Checked the GEQ . Everything is on. The right side has very little sound. I would guess 80 % lower than the left. Mono, using only the left side it works perfect.
Another question ! It I store a X over setting , say on program 1.
When I recall program 1 later should my X over setting be there ? Or, do you have to set the X over everytime you change programs ? :evil:
Once you have set up a program and STORED it, it should come back each and every time exactly as stored...IF you change the program parameters for that setup the STORE button will light and turn RED indicating that if you don't store it, you will LOOSE it!
Now, store all parameters, make sure you have the settings and do a soft reset... if that fails do a HARD reset... you WILL loose ALL user preset changes you have made so be ready to re-input them once finished... IF that solves your problem... you have POWER quality issues...a UPS is a good idea in these cases because it will keep the power up when it drops below a specific voltage.
I was speaking of corruption of the program...A hard reset restores that. Low power does funny things to systems...this can cause further disruption to digital devices...something is causing disruption of twintens Driveracks, I am simply trying to determine what things could be at fault here, I simply cannot believe that he got 2 bad units...SOMETHING is afoot here!
I had a chance to set up a low end system with my older DRPA... a very low budget setup, and I had preconceived notions about it's potential... the system...
2 Peavey PV 215 tops
2 Madison 118 subs and
2 Madison 115 monitors
2 Behringer 2450 amps
1 Tappco amp (monitors) (woefully underpowered...)
The Madison monitors sounded like ASS the subs were actually ok... output wise but VERY inefficient... the PV115's were decent after setup.
I set the system up mono 2 way with the left channel, and mono monitor on the right... I set up a custom system in the Wizard, and it went like this:
stereo/mono = stereo
stereo/dual mono= dual mono
tops=bi-amp (Peavey's...hi ous... and Madison subs... mid out)(Stereo amp)
subs = mono (Madison monitors... lo out) (bridged mono amp)
all amps= custom
load program
set HPF subs BW18 45hz
LPF 118hz BW24 (Hi out left input /output) +3.0db
HPF 112hz BW24 -LPF out BW6 (mid out left input /output ) -0-db (unity)
amps cranked...
HPF 67hz LPF 15khz bw6 (monitor out right input/output)
Ran Auto eq...
mic on a stand, PV 115 on top of Madison subs about 6 feet out aimed between the top 15\" and the horn on axis...
Took maybe 30 seconds... 2 lowest bands maxed (not produced) and some real Eq on the rest, I found a band or 2 I suspected of being reflected and adjusted by ear later...
The DRPA defaults right back to a \"set level\" in the Auto EQ sequence and the upper left corner of the display indicates the 'R' right channel will be done... COOL! Separate Auto EQ for the mains and monitors...
Ran the sequence with again -0- (flat response) medium accuracy...mic head high aimed @ the monitor, set the level as high as it would let me... (TURN SYSTEM DOWN) ran the sequence...The interesting thing here is that the DRPA momentarily displays the response of the speaker under test...the Madison monitors sounded REALLY tinny and harsh and I could see they would be a real feedback nightmare...The display indicated a HUGE bump from 1K to a peak of nearly 8 db @ 5k and so on ... which covered about 1k-10k... and a corresponding DIP in the mids from 200 to 600 hz...were dipped...they ( the monitors) sounded like... well ASS...no other way to describe it.... The DRPA took what seemed like and eternity... maybe 4 MINUTES to complete! and I fully expected a \"Not Done\"... but alas it did finish and it didn't say ... not done...The monitor sounded ... well... acceptable, but had MAJOR EQ manipulation....
I didn't transfer the EQ's to the PEQ's didn't have time... the system went out and the \"DJ\" that would be doing sound for a live band for the first time...went away with my DRPA, and a pretty fair sounding system (a bit underpowered) and the gig went well, but the DJ, and the band were BLOWN AWAY by the DRPA...(they were looking for a recommendation on which ANALOG crossover to buy)
:roll: pretty funny actually...well, they will be buying a DRPA, (I tried to talk them into a 260... but... well you know...$$$$$ rules... )
BTW the DRPA is on closeout now, and for less than $300 you can get one too... The PA+ is $150 more...
Could the Auto Level cut my right side down ? I have tested everything but that. As far as not being able to save the x over , I can live with that.
At least until my dealer gets another unit.
Has anyone noticed more system headroom with the PA+ ? I don't need to run my board near as hard, or hot, with the DR.
Hmmm IF your running dual mono....then yes, but stereo linked...no, I don't think so. But why not try and make another preset that is like the one you have now and see if that one is different... or the same? It's easy, and fast, and it would answer a lot of questions...
As I look over the thread weren't we talking MONO all the way though? If that is the case and you set up that way then ...Hmmm it would be difficult... but still, try setting up a new preset and see what happens...
Ok, I ran a stereo program. 3 way and did not run the auto level program. I went straight to the rta. Worked perfectly for about 10 min.
Then the right side lost most of the volumn. I had not changed programs .
So I guess I'm not completely crazy after all. Something inside the unit is killing the right side in stereo mode.
It's hard to beleive I got two bad units. Everyone else can buy now without worry. I have weeded out the bad ones !!
Gadget, I do prefer mono. I even ask the question \" Can I run mono and if so what output \" . I got a reply that mono can be run from right or left. Not so ! If you setup mono only the left side works. Trial and error. Having said that, I did buy a stereo unit and I wanted to try to see if that might have some quality that mono does not have. I will have to wait on my replacement to find out but I think the keyboard and my steel guitar will work better. We both run stereo on stage.
I'm not going to give up on this thing. When I make it work I will be able to cut down on my equipment load. I will, however, carry a x over and 31 band eq. as backup.
Thanks guys. I will keep you posted !
Dra, When stereo worked the input on both sides was between 10 and 20.
The output, low and mid, about the same. The high 20 or below.
When the right goes out the left stayed at 10 to 20 and the out puts ,on the left were the same. The right , in and out, showed nothing.
I know what you are thinking. Yes I tried other patch cables.
Comments
Now I have been the moderator and long time contributor here for ... well YEARS... I, DRa, Dennis, Kpippen, Mikey, Dr.J...NONE of us has ANY affiliation with DBX... were ALL volunteers...
I have seen some failures.. some units that needed hard resets, some that needed to be sent in. But as with any MFG you will have failures...The Crown your so proud of... the Itech amps have a TERRIBLE failure rate.. they have already been discontinued...in favor of the Itech HD. There were thousands and thousands of failures with them...JBL has had the TRX series DISCONTINUED in LESS than a YEAR! that's CRAZY...Digitech's TRS series was PLAGUED with failures...
Since I have had the Driverack in my systems I have drug around various Ashley, and Rane xovers as backups but have NEVER used any of them... :roll: nor would I want to...
Gadget
The DriveRack PA+ navigates almost exactly like the DriveRack PA (it's kind of a hybrid between the PA and PX). You cannot just add and clear crossover points from the main programming screen.
Outputs (as well as available crossover points) are either pre-configured based upon the preset you have loaded or are activated based upon what is selected when you run through the System Setup Wizard. For example, just like the PA, PX and 260, when you go through the DriveRack PA+ and select a \"Passive\" main speaker along with \"None\" for your subs, the DriveRack will create a full range program because you told the DriveRack that this is what you are using. In this type of program only the high outputs would be active as full range. The mid and low outputs would not be active in such a program, therefore you will not have these additional crossover points available in this program.
If you wanted enough crossover points to configure a 3-Way system you would have to first select a preset which is pre-configured as 3-Way (meaning all outputs are active) or go through the System Setup Wizard and select a \"Bi-amped\" type main speakers along with subs. This would tell the DriveRack that you are running 3-Way and activate all outputs for you.
You must ensure to load these changes before you can do anything with this new program. Once the program has been loaded, if using a Custom program, you can skip the Auto Leveler by pressing the Preset button.
Now your program is loaded and you should be able to press the XOVER button and make changes to the crossover settings. None of these settings will be stored until you press the STORE button 3 times. You should then be able to come into this crossover and change the parameters at a later time (by pressing the XOVER button and navigating the crossover section) if needed.
Hope this helps.
you don't erase the setting, you would just sellect the 1.6 and move it to 1.3. I got confused with mine at first but it is real simple. pressing the next page button will scroll through the xover points (LHM) if you are in the xover section. where as the eq section requires you to press the eq button repeatably to scroll the LHM. the next page button on the EQ section flicks you through the different frequency points, for which ever of the LHM you may be currently on. this combined with the pressing and rotating of the jog wheel for even more functions and options can take a while to digest.
oops missed the second page...
Questions?
Gadget
I see no need for stereo. Too many cables.
Does the leveling always take 3 or more minutes ? Can I bypass the leveling, do it myself and move on ?
Right in, right out.
It does not matter.
Thge other stuff I don't know.
DRA
I think if I could by pass the leveling part things would go much faster. BUT it might not work as well. Will find out.
Kinda like Fords and Chevys. If you want to go fast, buy a Chevy. If you don't want to break down going to work tomorrow, buy a Ford !! SIMPLE.
Just my opinion. I like Crown, Crest and Carver.
As for the rest...
By leveling are you talking about the auto level.. or the Auto eq? What procedure are you using... mic placement etc...
As for mono/stereo, I agree with one caveat... the effects sound MUCH better in stereo...well worth the xtra cablage...
G
Dennis
I wanted to say so much abt this but thought better of it. no sarky comments from me.
Stereo sometimes isnt ideal for a venue but is a lot better if it can be used.
If you are reffering to which out puts to use if your just using the left/mono input. I imagine all the outputs are the same for what ever frequency part (low/mid/high) you are using. I'm not sure on this though, will check later.
Try plugging into the left and right input, check you have signal on the front meters, disconect the right input and see if it still displays activity on the right meters in the output section (says threshold above). if it does it's automaticly using the mono left input to feed the left & right outputs. I'm persuming you already have summed your sugnal from the mixer.
for the sake of a few extra cables I would use stereo though. as for the sake of a better sounding system you bought a drive rack.
Some bands (many actually) put stereo as a requirement in their riders...many guitar and keyboard players insist on stereo...So if you plan to do hire work... plan on the xtra cables...
G
Sorry to be a pain. not that I would ever use it with just a mono input. if I feed just into the left input what output will have sound. thats what I think the other post asked. Could you do 1x6, 1x4, 1x2 etc. I relise the cross over points would still be in matching pairs, if the drive rack can do this.
I'm going to the club now to check. no need for reply, I will post the results.
This is great for me, now the centre 2 dual 15's I have are both been sent a mono signal rather than left & right. woohoo.
The input LED is showing low signal coming to the Drive rack unit. The left is fine. Switching cables from the mixer does not change it.
Do I have another bad unit ?
I was just getting to like the stereo mix now I have screwed up something.
DRA
Another question !
When I recall program 1 later should my X over setting be there ? Or, do you have to set the X over everytime you change programs ? :evil:
Now, store all parameters, make sure you have the settings and do a soft reset... if that fails do a HARD reset... you WILL loose ALL user preset changes you have made so be ready to re-input them once finished... IF that solves your problem... you have POWER quality issues...a UPS is a good idea in these cases because it will keep the power up when it drops below a specific voltage.
G
DRA
I had a chance to set up a low end system with my older DRPA... a very low budget setup, and I had preconceived notions about it's potential... the system...
2 Peavey PV 215 tops
2 Madison 118 subs and
2 Madison 115 monitors
2 Behringer 2450 amps
1 Tappco amp (monitors) (woefully underpowered...)
The Madison monitors sounded like ASS the subs were actually ok... output wise but VERY inefficient... the PV115's were decent after setup.
I set the system up mono 2 way with the left channel, and mono monitor on the right... I set up a custom system in the Wizard, and it went like this:
stereo/mono = stereo
stereo/dual mono= dual mono
tops=bi-amp (Peavey's...hi ous... and Madison subs... mid out)(Stereo amp)
subs = mono (Madison monitors... lo out) (bridged mono amp)
all amps= custom
load program
set HPF subs BW18 45hz
LPF 118hz BW24 (Hi out left input /output) +3.0db
HPF 112hz BW24 -LPF out BW6 (mid out left input /output ) -0-db (unity)
amps cranked...
HPF 67hz LPF 15khz bw6 (monitor out right input/output)
Ran Auto eq...
mic on a stand, PV 115 on top of Madison subs about 6 feet out aimed between the top 15\" and the horn on axis...
Took maybe 30 seconds... 2 lowest bands maxed (not produced) and some real Eq on the rest, I found a band or 2 I suspected of being reflected and adjusted by ear later...
The DRPA defaults right back to a \"set level\" in the Auto EQ sequence and the upper left corner of the display indicates the 'R' right channel will be done... COOL! Separate Auto EQ for the mains and monitors...
Ran the sequence with again -0- (flat response) medium accuracy...mic head high aimed @ the monitor, set the level as high as it would let me... (TURN SYSTEM DOWN) ran the sequence...The interesting thing here is that the DRPA momentarily displays the response of the speaker under test...the Madison monitors sounded REALLY tinny and harsh and I could see they would be a real feedback nightmare...The display indicated a HUGE bump from 1K to a peak of nearly 8 db @ 5k and so on ... which covered about 1k-10k... and a corresponding DIP in the mids from 200 to 600 hz...were dipped...they ( the monitors) sounded like... well ASS...no other way to describe it.... The DRPA took what seemed like and eternity... maybe 4 MINUTES to complete! and I fully expected a \"Not Done\"... but alas it did finish and it didn't say ... not done...The monitor sounded ... well... acceptable, but had MAJOR EQ manipulation....
I didn't transfer the EQ's to the PEQ's didn't have time... the system went out and the \"DJ\" that would be doing sound for a live band for the first time...went away with my DRPA, and a pretty fair sounding system (a bit underpowered) and the gig went well, but the DJ, and the band were BLOWN AWAY by the DRPA...(they were looking for a recommendation on which ANALOG crossover to buy)
:roll: pretty funny actually...well, they will be buying a DRPA, (I tried to talk them into a 260... but... well you know...$$$$$ rules... )
BTW the DRPA is on closeout now, and for less than $300 you can get one too... The PA+ is $150 more...
At least until my dealer gets another unit.
Has anyone noticed more system headroom with the PA+ ? I don't need to run my board near as hard, or hot, with the DR.
As I look over the thread weren't we talking MONO all the way though? If that is the case and you set up that way then ...Hmmm it would be difficult... but still, try setting up a new preset and see what happens...
g
Then the right side lost most of the volumn. I had not changed programs .
So I guess I'm not completely crazy after all. Something inside the unit is killing the right side in stereo mode.
It's hard to beleive I got two bad units. Everyone else can buy now without worry. I have weeded out the bad ones !!
DRA
I'm not going to give up on this thing. When I make it work I will be able to cut down on my equipment load. I will, however, carry a x over and 31 band eq. as backup.
Thanks guys. I will keep you posted !
The output, low and mid, about the same. The high 20 or below.
When the right goes out the left stayed at 10 to 20 and the out puts ,on the left were the same. The right , in and out, showed nothing.
I know what you are thinking. Yes I tried other patch cables.