My speakers are SRX 715's w/ a 2265H 15" woofer and a 2431H 3 inch voice-coil.
That 3rd simulation definitely looks the best...though I'm having trouble wrapping my head around that one, lol. Took a while for people to realize the world wasn't flat, though, so I don't feel too bad .
What would you suggest, moving all four to the south, so the pattern is the strongest in the center of the building, or add (2) more 715's? It doesn't kill me to have low volume at the ends of the building...not many folks hang out against the north and south walls anyway.
Thanks Dennis,
They are JBL SRX 715's with 2265H 15" and 2431H driver.
Looks as if those cabs are properly splayed and all, and still comb-ing like that? Hmmm what gives? I would have thought that when the cabs were splayed like that, that within the horn patterns output, that the 2K interaction (and most within the horns frequency response)would be minimal?
G
Thanks Dennis,
They are JBL SRX 715's with 2265H 15" and 2431H driver.
Looks as if those cabs are properly splayed and all, and still comb-ing like that? Hmmm what gives? I would have thought that when the cabs were splayed like that, that within the horn patterns output, that the 2K interaction (and most within the horns frequency response)would be minimal?
G
It could be that putting some distance between speakers will help and it could be that it looks worse than it sounds but in the end, my vote will be for everything aimed the same direction.
My speakers are SRX 715's w/ a 2265H 15" woofer and a 2431H 3 inch voice-coil.
That 3rd simulation definitely looks the best...though I'm having trouble wrapping my head around that one, lol. Took a while for people to realize the world wasn't flat, though, so I don't feel too bad .
What would you suggest, moving all four to the south, so the pattern is the strongest in the center of the building, or add (2) more 715's? It doesn't kill me to have low volume at the ends of the building...not many folks hang out against the north and south walls anyway.
Thanks again.
Rob
Hmmm...I posted a response to this yesterday and now I don't see it. Anyway, I didn't insert all of the architecture into the prediction because it is very time consuming. Two of the speakers are located roughly at two corners of the dance floor. The next two speakers are located about half way down the dance floor and would be considered delay speakers. By default, the north wall is washed in sound because all of the speakers are aimed that direction. A fill speaker could wash the south wall and it's direction of throw wouldn't be an issue because it would never cross paths with the other speakers' patterns.
Looks as if those cabs are properly splayed and all, and still comb-ing like that? Hmmm what gives? I would have thought that when the cabs were splayed like that, that within the horn patterns output, that the 2K interaction (and most within the horns frequency response)would be minimal?
G
When the "pros" design and predict configurations, I have often seen combing on speaker arrays like what is shown above. Keep in mind, in my case, I am usually working with a 20'+ trim but when I walk the room, all I will hear is a minor, narrow null between the two speakers. I will not hear the rest of what is shown in the prediction (of course it would be more noticeable closer to the speaker but has a chance to even out closer to the floor). While it would be ideal to have no nulls at all, the "pros" are often forced to work with limited, existing rigging points and don't have the option to fly speakers where ever they want.
I don't think this has been discussed, but would suspending the 4 speakers firing down (some angle probably needed) from a center cluster over the dance floor? Maybe the ceiling is not high enough.....
Would definitely keep the sound ON the people.
I don't think this has been discussed, but would suspending the 4 speakers firing down (some angle probably needed) from a center cluster over the dance floor? Maybe the ceiling is not high enough.....
Would definitely keep the sound ON the people.
What about a L/R pair flanking the DJ booth and on the other side just above that table? against the back wall...with the outside pair splayed to cover the far corners (shaded if possible) and the inside pair covering the dance floor...
(and yes.. I know I'm repeating myself but hey, I'm older then dirt, and doing sound for a bunch of old farts that make me look young.. with a house full of deer hunting widows...and the band is playing .. I'm much too young to feel this damn old :? )
Dennis, this is also a prediction of a few hundred hz around 2Khz only I see, Above and below should look significantly different.. depending on the frequency.. right?
What about a L/R pair flanking the DJ booth and on the other side just above that table? against the back wall...with the outside pair splayed to cover the far corners (shaded if possible) and the inside pair covering the dance floor...
(and yes.. I know I'm repeating myself but hey, I'm older then dirt, and doing sound for a bunch of old farts that make me look young.. with a house full of deer hunting widows...and the band is playing .. I'm much too young to feel this damn old :? )
Dennis, this is also a prediction of a few hundred hz around 2Khz only I see, Above and below should look significantly different.. depending on the frequency.. right?
G
I'm not sure I understand your design but I think it's a mirror image of the screen shot below. The screen shot below is my original thought on what might work except I had to separate the center cluster to eliminate the comb. What is left will be a narrow null in the center at 3 or 4 dB down which is something you can live with. I spent a bunch of time with different splay angles and this is about as even as this configuration is going to get. The dance floor speakers are 0dB and the outfill speakers are -3dB.
Yes, predictions at different frequencies are totally different. I will start off at 2kHz or 4kHz and develop a design that I like at that frequency before moving on to other frequencies.
Well that was retarded.
With backs to the ceiling...
^oo oo^ or oo^ ^00 ?
DRA
I have had difficulty understanding your configuration. I think you are aiming the speakers straight down at the floor? MAPP Online is a two dimensional program that will not predict that in the plan view (overhead). I can show it in sectional view (side) but you get no sense of how well it is covering the entire area.
First off, thanks you guys for taking the time to really dig into this .
Here is an update...
I moved the bass speakers close to the center of the building (as shown in the floorplan), stacked on top of each other (I broke out the (2) new JBL SRX718 subs), and WOW!!!!!!!
I now have bass 8) ...the club was boomin' last night!! It's a perfect match for the club (MA-5000VZ bridge-mono w/ the (2) 718's), any more and we'd probably get noise complaints (have neighbors about 1/4 away that sometimes gripe :roll: ).
The (4) JBL SRX715's, though still not optimally placed, not bi-amped yet, and still under powered, sounded 100% better than the way they were layed out before (pointing at each other :oops: :oops: :oops: ). I also replaced all of my cables, connections and speaker wire and got rid of the existing noise from the gaggle of crappy patch cables.
I also turned off all compression, as well as the Expander/Gate and am now just using the compressor as a limiter. I read all I could about my EQ, Crossover and Compressor, tweaked them the best I could (I knew nothing about these things a month ago :shock: ).
I think I'm ready to give the Driverack a whirl...well, as soon as the other XTi's get here 8) .
The screen shot below is my original thought on what might work except I had to separate the center cluster to eliminate the comb. What is left will be a narrow null in the center at 3 or 4 dB down which is something you can live with. I spent a bunch of time with different splay angles and this is about as even as this configuration is going to get. The dance floor speakers are 0dB and the outfill speakers are -3dB.
Thanks Dennis! I like this :twisted: :twisted: !
The (4) 715's are plenty loud enough (found that out last night - had to turn them down a bit to let the bass catch up), so I think it'll work w/ just the (4) of them.
YA and wait till you bi-amp them :shock: :shock: :shock: you will have SOOOO much more control (and power) and as Dennis said if you do the speaker layout the way he first proposed you will have , coverage, and clarity...win/win
G
I have overlooked one issue. With all of the screenshots I posted, I wanted to clearly demonstrate the relationship between the response of the four speakers without adding anything else to the mix that would make it confusing to look at. It is now time to add that stuff to the mix.
I didn't "engage" the walls of the club...what you were looking at would be the response of the speakers outdoors. So, time to add walls. I don't know if you discussed the interior construction of the club earlier in this thread but I am going to take a WAG and insert painted concrete block walls. It don't look too bad. Keep in mind that this plan view does not take into consideration the downtilt that you will be adding to each speaker which will improve the relationship between speaker and wall.
The walls are sheet metal on the outside, with 6" fiberglass batting, and plywood on the inside walls. The wall that the speakers will face actually have some good properties to point at (from what I've read anyway...there's a 5' airspace behind the wall that the speakers will face which encompasses the entry, cleaning closet, etc. w/ fiberglass batting in the wall that separates them).
And...I received the other (2) XTi's today .
So, now I have a question about setting the gain structure...
I am using a Numark NS7 to run all of my music. It has it's own preamp, volume control, gains, etc. How should I set it when conducting the gain structure? Everything a 12 o'clock, and then follow the instructions like normal with my mixer (both have visual output meters).
**(ON EDIT) Or...The Numark NS7 has (2) balanced XLR outputs...should I just bypass my mixer all together and run the NS7 straight to the Driverack?
Looks like quite a unit I bet the learning curve is a bit steep as well :shock:
With a max output of 26.3 dBu it should work fine with the 260...(note, the 260 has an input mixer, for the moment leave the controls at default till you have a problem... if you look at the mixer in the GUI you will see why I'm saying this...)
I guess 1/2 way is as good a starting point as any for the input control... unless you cannot get sufficient gain to get the mixer to the clip point I have to assume here that the meters indicate a clip point for the mixer outputs? The manual is vague on a few things...
The idea here is to find the point all the equipment clips, and make sure that when the mixer clips, the driverack doesn't, and the amps don't... :arrow: NOTE :arrow: the driverack must NEVER approach clipping! Digital clipping is :evil: BAD :evil: BAD juju :!: besides, it's processing is in the digital domain and doesn't NEED that fat analog signal to get a good signal to noise ratio!
Yes, then follow the gain structure...Are you planning to bi-amp right away?
G
Damn, Gadget you're fast, lol. I've been trying to find the max output of the NS7 myself...I should have just asked you 8) 8) .
And, yes, it took me a few months to get the NS7 dialed in (had an issue w/ USB droputs...but I finally got it worked out). I'm still riding the learning curve :oops: :oops: :oops:.
As far as not clipping the NS7, it has it's own limiter (which I've never hit yet), and Serato (the maker of the "Itch" software for the NS7) recommends setting the headroom on the NS7 gain at -6db (I haven't messed w/ mine yet...I just learned about this tonight - I'm not even sure how to do this just yet).
**(ON EDIT) I'm not sure about the clip indicators (I've seen (2) white bars on top of the usual red bars on the level indicator lights on the NS7, but I'll have to find out more). From what I've read the limiter is a separate indicator than the level indicators (I'm going to have to fire up Itch and the NS7 and play w/ it to see if I can hit the limiter).
And, yes, I am planning on bi-amping before hooking up the Driverack, but I'm still waiting on the 4 wire speaker cable and a few more NL4 connectors to arrive (I ran 12 AWG SJ cord to the SRX715's last week as a temp fix - the old wire had some splices that I was worried about).
My brain is seriously starting to ooze out of my head . If it wasn't for this site, I'd just be a puddle by now .
I guess I should have weighed in on the cable.. 13/14-4 is fine for tops.. when the run is under 50' ...
If you can't defeat the limiter...then you'll have to go just under that...
I simply went to the Numark site and downloaded the manual... I have some older Numark stuff (from before they went belly up)... and found the specs.
I started out as a DJ back when the earth was still cooling and we had vinyl and stylus arms and column speakers ( the first line arrays ) and we carried crates of albums and racks of 45's... and if the low end got too strong the arm on the turntable would bounce off the record :shock:
I actually worked at a Discotheque back when 'Saturday Night live" happened nightly, complete with the suits, and the dance offs and the whole 9 yards... I have to tell you, those pictures you posted brought back memories...The place was called "The Zoo", and the DJ booth was a cage, (made from EMT electrical tubing) the the booths were cages and there was stuffed animals (BIG ONES) hanging around... 2 stories, dance floor in the middle, ass kickin light show(36" mirror ball with 8 pin spots on it ...individually controllable)...GLI Disco monster speakers and Phase Linear amps...Technics SL1200 decks and the exact same 4 corners (of the dance floor) sound system you had... It was AWESOME! (30 some years ago...)
I have to tell you I would walk into places where young ladies were about, and some actually swooned when I would enter... What a rush!
Gadget...I had a Technics tuntable, too, back in 1986, haha .
I had already read some of your old posts about speaker wire...which is why I went with 13/4 AWG (my longest run is less than 60 ft).
And I have a little more info from Serato about the NS7:
The easiest way to understand the NS7 is this. All the mixing is done in the software, the individual channel meters indicate each channels volume, and these are summed to the master. If the master looks like it is clipping, then the internal Limiter will kick in. As you know the limiter is designed to reduce the output signal to a non clipping state.
So the output of the software will be fed out to the NS7 soundcard.
What is cool is the NS7 master volume knob is analog, so ITCH won't be clipping until this point, and as long as you aren't overloading the inputs of your processing/amplification chain, you should be sweet. Just make sure that the input signal isn't clipping on your DBX (I assume this will be the 'Input Headroom').
I'd assume a good sweetspot for the NS7 when running full scale audio and running into the DBX will be about 80% master volume, this will mean the circuitry has enough dynamics to cope with any headroom and probably be a good hot signal to the DBX without overloading the inputs.
I'm ordering new cables now to run the NS7 directly to the Driverack. I've already put the new XTi's in the rack, but obviously haven't hooked them up yet (though I'll probably run (2) of the SRX715's to each XTi6000's for now - not bi-amped yet, however).
Also, last night when I went to set up the Driverack, it listed the XTi family for amps, but didn't list the 6000, only the 1,2 and 4000. Should I set it to custom, or just use the 4000 setting?
And it's good to know that I'm not the only one who had my speakers set up wrong...even if it was 30 years ago, lol.
It was "Less wrong" back then because the speakers horns were crossed in like 3500hz so the sound didn't "throw very far" and so the sound kind of covered only the area it needed to... Oh what ever... what a crock...
Anyway, all XTi amps have the same 1.4 volt input sensitivity...so since that is the underlying factor .. any amp in the line is ok as a starting point for "stereo" operation.
We never talked about the way your going to run the tops.. your going to have 3 XTI 6000's?, and you have 2 other amps ... a 1400 and an 800... something? (other than the MAC5000)how do you intend to hook this stuff up?
G
We never talked about the way your going to run the tops.. your going to have 3 XTI 6000's?, and you have 2 other amps ... a 1400 and an 800... something? (other than the MAC5000)how do you intend to hook this stuff up?
I ditched the 1400 and the 800...they were both older than me, lol.
I now only have:
(2) XTi 6000's - for the (4) SRX715 mids, linked together (Output channels 3 & 4, left and right)
(1) XTi 2000 - for the (4) SRX715 highs (Output channels 1 & 2, left and right)
(1) MA5000VZ - for the (2) SRX718's - bridge-mono (Output channel 5)
I also ditched all the other speakers (EV's) that I was using as fill, since the JBL's are plenty for the club (I ran this last weekend w/ just the (4) of them).
you cannot power shade with only 3 amps...(at least not the low mids and hi's...) you will need 4 channels of horns, and 4 channels of low mids... the subs can be mono as we spoke of before... Sorry... I thought we were clear here....(if you wish to have stereo hi' and mid outputs like dennis showed)
AND you will need a patch panel...(4 NL4 female jacks for the tops feeds, (one per speaker) and 1/2 for the subs...)
Yikes, just when I thought I had a handle on this :oops: .
And I sincerely apologize for my ignorance, but I don't understand what you mean by power shading :shock: .
I guess it's going to be a long night, lol.
**(ON EDIT) - Okay, I think I may see a speckle of light :twisted: ...When Dennis said run the outside speakers at -3db...that's what you mean by power shading, right?
So, If this were my system, I think I would run the center two speakers that cover the dance floor in stereo but run the two outfill speakers in summed mono since they are covering somewhat isolated areas that are not seeing a stereo image. In addition to being run at -3dB, the outfills will be delayed 8.85ms to time align to the mains (this is based on the exact design in my screenshot). The actual installation will probably vary from the screenshot and delay time will have to be recalculated. You will have to use processing in the XTIs as well as the DR.
So yes, one more XTi 2000 to complete the package.
260:
channel 1/2 horns (dance floor)
channel 3/4 mids (dance floor)
channel 5 subs
channel 6 summed L/R to feed outside XTI6000/2000 pair (you can use the XTI's parallel input feature and "thru" feature to feed the signals to the amps and then process them internally in the amps. Use the same xover type and slope as used on the dance floor cabs.
So, If this were my system, I think I would run the center two speakers that cover the dance floor in stereo but run the two outfill speakers in summed mono since they are covering somewhat isolated areas that are not seeing a stereo image. In addition to being run at -3dB, the outfills will be delayed 8.85ms to time align to the mains (this is based on the exact design in my screenshot). The actual installation will probably vary from the screenshot and delay time will have to be recalculated. You will have to use processing in the XTIs as well as the DR.
Thanks, Dennis . I can actually follow the exact layout in your design..the speakers will mount easily where you have them. And I will follow your suggestion w/ stereo in the middle and mono on the outside speakers.
**(ON EDIT) - Gadget, you beat me to it, lol...I was writing this, but you already answered it before I could post it, haha.
Gadget, even running mono on the outside, I'll still need another XTi 2000, right? So, I'm guessing it will look something like this:
(1) XTi 6000 for the (2) stereo LF mids
(1) XTi 6000 for the (2) mono LF mids
(1) XTi 2000 for the (2) stereo highs
(1) XTi 2000 for the (2) mono highs
(1) MA5000VZ for the (2) subs
And now I see why I need a patch panel...I'll need at least 7 channels to accomplish this, yes? (ON EDIT -already answered by Gadget in previous post).
Comments
Thanks for running the simulations 8) .
My speakers are SRX 715's w/ a 2265H 15" woofer and a 2431H 3 inch voice-coil.
That 3rd simulation definitely looks the best...though I'm having trouble wrapping my head around that one, lol. Took a while for people to realize the world wasn't flat, though, so I don't feel too bad
What would you suggest, moving all four to the south, so the pattern is the strongest in the center of the building, or add (2) more 715's? It doesn't kill me to have low volume at the ends of the building...not many folks hang out against the north and south walls anyway.
Thanks again.
Rob
They are JBL SRX 715's with 2265H 15" and 2431H driver.
Looks as if those cabs are properly splayed and all, and still comb-ing like that? Hmmm what gives? I would have thought that when the cabs were splayed like that, that within the horn patterns output, that the 2K interaction (and most within the horns frequency response)would be minimal?
G
Dennis
Dennis
Dennis
Would definitely keep the sound ON the people.
DRA
DRA
Dennis
But those under would be kinda SOL...
What about a L/R pair flanking the DJ booth and on the other side just above that table? against the back wall...with the outside pair splayed to cover the far corners (shaded if possible) and the inside pair covering the dance floor...
Kind of like this pix:
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m62 ... osedII.jpg
but with the pairs side by side and splayed so that the outside speakers cover the outsides...and the inside cover the dance floor
(and yes.. I know I'm repeating myself
Dennis, this is also a prediction of a few hundred hz around 2Khz only I see, Above and below should look significantly different.. depending on the frequency.. right?
G
00 = woofer(s)
Ceiling
^00 00^
/ \ / / \ / / \/
Floor
===================================
Ceiling
00^ ^00
/ \ / / / \ / / \
Floor
With backs to the ceiling...
^oo oo^ or oo^ ^00 ?
DRA
Yes, predictions at different frequencies are totally different. I will start off at 2kHz or 4kHz and develop a design that I like at that frequency before moving on to other frequencies.
Dennis
Dennis
Here is an update...
I moved the bass speakers close to the center of the building (as shown in the floorplan), stacked on top of each other (I broke out the (2) new JBL SRX718 subs), and WOW!!!!!!!
I now have bass
The (4) JBL SRX715's, though still not optimally placed, not bi-amped yet, and still under powered, sounded 100% better than the way they were layed out before (pointing at each other :oops: :oops: :oops: ). I also replaced all of my cables, connections and speaker wire and got rid of the existing noise from the gaggle of crappy patch cables.
I also turned off all compression, as well as the Expander/Gate and am now just using the compressor as a limiter. I read all I could about my EQ, Crossover and Compressor, tweaked them the best I could (I knew nothing about these things a month ago :shock: ).
I think I'm ready to give the Driverack a whirl...well, as soon as the other XTi's get here 8) .
Thanks Dennis! I like this
The (4) 715's are plenty loud enough (found that out last night - had to turn them down a bit to let the bass catch up), so I think it'll work w/ just the (4) of them.
G
I didn't "engage" the walls of the club...what you were looking at would be the response of the speakers outdoors. So, time to add walls. I don't know if you discussed the interior construction of the club earlier in this thread but I am going to take a WAG and insert painted concrete block walls. It don't look too bad. Keep in mind that this plan view does not take into consideration the downtilt that you will be adding to each speaker which will improve the relationship between speaker and wall.
Dennis
And...I received the other (2) XTi's today
So, now I have a question about setting the gain structure...
I am using a Numark NS7 to run all of my music. It has it's own preamp, volume control, gains, etc. How should I set it when conducting the gain structure? Everything a 12 o'clock, and then follow the instructions like normal with my mixer (both have visual output meters).
**(ON EDIT) Or...The Numark NS7 has (2) balanced XLR outputs...should I just bypass my mixer all together and run the NS7 straight to the Driverack?
Thanks.
Rob
With a max output of 26.3 dBu it should work fine with the 260...(note, the 260 has an input mixer, for the moment leave the controls at default till you have a problem... if you look at the mixer in the GUI you will see why I'm saying this...)
I guess 1/2 way is as good a starting point as any for the input control... unless you cannot get sufficient gain to get the mixer to the clip point I have to assume here that the meters indicate a clip point for the mixer outputs? The manual is vague on a few things...
The idea here is to find the point all the equipment clips, and make sure that when the mixer clips, the driverack doesn't, and the amps don't... :arrow: NOTE :arrow: the driverack must NEVER approach clipping! Digital clipping is :evil: BAD :evil: BAD juju :!: besides, it's processing is in the digital domain and doesn't NEED that fat analog signal to get a good signal to noise ratio!
Yes, then follow the gain structure...Are you planning to bi-amp right away?
G
And, yes, it took me a few months to get the NS7 dialed in (had an issue w/ USB droputs...but I finally got it worked out). I'm still riding the learning curve :oops: :oops: :oops:.
As far as not clipping the NS7, it has it's own limiter (which I've never hit yet), and Serato (the maker of the "Itch" software for the NS7) recommends setting the headroom on the NS7 gain at -6db (I haven't messed w/ mine yet...I just learned about this tonight - I'm not even sure how to do this just yet).
**(ON EDIT) I'm not sure about the clip indicators (I've seen (2) white bars on top of the usual red bars on the level indicator lights on the NS7, but I'll have to find out more). From what I've read the limiter is a separate indicator than the level indicators (I'm going to have to fire up Itch and the NS7 and play w/ it to see if I can hit the limiter).
And, yes, I am planning on bi-amping before hooking up the Driverack, but I'm still waiting on the 4 wire speaker cable and a few more NL4 connectors to arrive (I ran 12 AWG SJ cord to the SRX715's last week as a temp fix - the old wire had some splices that I was worried about).
My brain is seriously starting to ooze out of my head
I guess I should have weighed in on the cable.. 13/14-4 is fine for tops.. when the run is under 50' ...
If you can't defeat the limiter...then you'll have to go just under that...
I simply went to the Numark site and downloaded the manual... I have some older Numark stuff (from before they went belly up)... and found the specs.
I started out as a DJ back when the earth was still cooling
I actually worked at a Discotheque back when 'Saturday Night live" happened nightly, complete with the suits, and the dance offs and the whole 9 yards...
I have to tell you I would walk into
Ah those were the days (GAWD we were clueless...
Sorry...
G
I had already read some of your old posts about speaker wire...which is why I went with 13/4 AWG (my longest run is less than 60 ft).
And I have a little more info from Serato about the NS7:
I'm ordering new cables now to run the NS7 directly to the Driverack. I've already put the new XTi's in the rack, but obviously haven't hooked them up yet (though I'll probably run (2) of the SRX715's to each XTi6000's for now - not bi-amped yet, however).
Also, last night when I went to set up the Driverack, it listed the XTi family for amps, but didn't list the 6000, only the 1,2 and 4000. Should I set it to custom, or just use the 4000 setting?
And it's good to know that I'm not the only one who had my speakers set up wrong...even if it was 30 years ago, lol.
Anyway, all XTi amps have the same 1.4 volt input sensitivity...so since that is the underlying factor .. any amp in the line is ok as a starting point for "stereo" operation.
We never talked about the way your going to run the tops.. your going to have 3 XTI 6000's?, and you have 2 other amps ... a 1400 and an 800... something? (other than the MAC5000)how do you intend to hook this stuff up?
G
I now only have:
(2) XTi 6000's - for the (4) SRX715 mids, linked together (Output channels 3 & 4, left and right)
(1) XTi 2000 - for the (4) SRX715 highs (Output channels 1 & 2, left and right)
(1) MA5000VZ - for the (2) SRX718's - bridge-mono (Output channel 5)
I also ditched all the other speakers (EV's) that I was using as fill, since the JBL's are plenty for the club (I ran this last weekend w/ just the (4) of them).
AND you will need a patch panel...(4 NL4 female jacks for the tops feeds, (one per speaker) and 1/2 for the subs...)
G
And I sincerely apologize for my ignorance, but I don't understand what you mean by power shading :shock: .
I guess it's going to be a long night, lol.
**(ON EDIT) - Okay, I think I may see a speckle of light :twisted: ...When Dennis said run the outside speakers at -3db...that's what you mean by power shading, right?
So, I just need another XTi2000, is that correct?
Thanks, Gadget 8) .
Dennis
260:
channel 1/2 horns (dance floor)
channel 3/4 mids (dance floor)
channel 5 subs
channel 6 summed L/R to feed outside XTI6000/2000 pair (you can use the XTI's parallel input feature and "thru" feature to feed the signals to the amps and then process them internally in the amps. Use the same xover type and slope as used on the dance floor cabs.
G
**(ON EDIT) - Gadget, you beat me to it, lol...I was writing this, but you already answered it before I could post it, haha.
Gadget, even running mono on the outside, I'll still need another XTi 2000, right? So, I'm guessing it will look something like this:
(1) XTi 6000 for the (2) stereo LF mids
(1) XTi 6000 for the (2) mono LF mids
(1) XTi 2000 for the (2) stereo highs
(1) XTi 2000 for the (2) mono highs
(1) MA5000VZ for the (2) subs
And now I see why I need a patch panel...I'll need at least 7 channels to accomplish this, yes? (ON EDIT -already answered by Gadget in previous post).
Thanks.
Rob