Criteria: Loads of tight thumping, chest pounding, earthmoving bass!...:)
Wow!...I really like the Fane 200 liter cabinet plan for Colossus 18B, 18XB, and 18B-600... I love the simplicity of it!... The 18B is 400w, and the 18XB and 18B-600 are 600w... I would like to build a dual cab with two 18\" cone drivers.. The Fane literatue mentions that the 18B-600 is intended for multi-way and the 18XB is for singly or multi-way... It's difficult for me \"being old school\" to accept horns for BASS... Do you think the EP2500 would drive two of the 18XBs efficiently and effectively or should I limit to the 18B (400w)?... Here are some calculations based on the speaker's \"continuous ratings\": 600w X 2 X 1.25 = 1500w or 400w X 2 X 1.25 = 1000w. The EP2500 is \"supposed\" to put-out 2400w at 4-ohms in bridge-mono but I have learned from you guys that this low-end stuff consumes a lot more POWER...
Oh ya.. any Dan will do... I also like Dread Zeppelin, Toto, Floyd...and some of my own recordings... they are much more dynamic...
As for the Fanes.. I think they blow the EV speakers off the planet! The cabs are small and easy to construct, and you can stack'em up like building blocks for some really impressive low end... Get the XB... that cab is also quite light weight.. bass you can pick up and carry at the end of the day...the box is driver friendly and I have used the less expensive (about half) Omega 18 by Eminence. These could easily be made into a dual 18 with the added bonus of one less panel to cut out...I have a group that uses a pair and have for years using the RMX 2450 as an amp.. in bridged mono of course..
I also have some plans for (I have built about 16 of these and they are proven workhorses...) an EV S181 knockoff using... again the Eminence Omega 18's.. also a forgiving design and a ~quasi~ horn speaker thats easy to build, and light weight.
I know you have heard this guys.. TOO MUCH POWER IS NEVER ENOUGH!
These could easily be made into a dual 18 with the added bonus of one less panel to cut out...
Gary,
If I built a dual driver unit I would basically stick with the plan,...but cut the side, front, and rear panels twice as long with only one panel inside for separating/isolating the two speaker compartments?... Or is it better to stack two cubes?...
As you already know we took an old network rack Wal-Mart left behind and converted it to an amp rack... We installed lexan doors with locks to keep curious hands out… We have four dedicated 120VAC/20AMP circuits for the equipment and two UPS (on bottom shelf) for processing... There's about an 1\" of space between the amps and they run cool as a cucumber... We also snatched a large receptionist booth that was donated to the church and converted it to a sound booth... We installed six floor boxes in the stage with five XLR receptacles, one speak-on, and one 120VAC receptacle in each... I've been waiting for Youth Area to be entirely completed before posting more pictures, but I now realize it will always be a work in progress... Here are some recent pics to date:
Kevin, Since your subs are "in" the corners, have you tried any of the "techniques" in one of those links? ie aiming the sub at the corner.
That install is super nice. I hate you.
Dra
Hello Dra,
Thank you!... It's funny that you mention aiming the sub at the corner... There was a guy that recommended something similar (to someone else) on another forum...and man he got blasted!!!
Recommending to fire subs into a wall with no caveat about wall construction is pretty lame.
The concept of firing subs into a wall *period* is not practiced by anyone I have ever run into across N America and elsewhere on the planet. In churches or in secular sound. The potential to load the drivers (in amanner that they are not intended to be) and result in damage (at higher SPL's) is but one reason why this is a silly idea.
If I try it...I'll keep it a secret and PM you the result...:)
Ironic that the source of the sub facing the corner and many other techniques is the same as the one build site Gadget sent you a couple of posts back, billfitzmaurice?
Very very nice.. As I have said many times if it works it's right.. to heck with the naysayers...Corner loading is a way to get free volume... Kevin I think that you should experience a folded horn sub before you actually build anything... they are so amazing sounding and they naturally amplify the sound for free power...
I would (if you were going to build the Fanes.. eliminate the double center...
I emailed Bill and asked him about the possibility of building a TUBA 36 with one Fane COL18XB... I like the power rating and usable frequency range of the Fane... Available power (1500w @ 8-ohms, 2400w @ 4-ohms) is going to be the deciding factor...
I just read here that a 18\" driver is not a good idea for a horn...:)
Ironic that the source of the sub facing the corner and many other techniques is the same as the one build site Gadget sent you a couple of posts back, billfitzmaurice?
In most cases you’ll have best results aiming the subs towards the wall or corner with the mouth about a foot away from the boundary, using the room corner as an extension of the horn
I wonder if the same would apply to a commercial loaded, direct radiator type?...
Actually nothing surprises me any more... did you sweep all the way through 180 degrees? And thats where it looked AND sounded best? REMEMBER THIS... the ears ALWAYS win! I don't give a darn what the machine says.. if it sounds wrong it's WRONG!... Gadget
Soooo...I guess what I'm hearing from you is that it doesn't sound kosher?... OK give me some idea (a starting point) of what YOU normally end up with?... Maybe I should try it again while listening to music and not doing the pink noise thing?...
Master Po,
Back to phase correction: If my mains and subs were "in phase" at the crossover point wouldn't it be the loudest?... In other words if I put up a tone at the crossover point and swept the phase on the sub...would the SUM of the two (sub and main) be loudest when the phase is correct?...
If this is true...here's the next question: Would it be better to get the phase correct between the two before the timing...or vise versa?...:)
Another question: While I was sweeping the delay I noticed two points 4-6ft and 12-14ft (I think) where I was getting similar results?... I used the 4-6ft values because I thought that maybe the 12-14ft values could have been from the reverberant surfaces?... Have you seen this before?...
Ah... but young grasshopper you forget... there are always tradeoffs...in the phase portion of our tuning we are looking for flattest response not loudest volume...Yes the time align will give the loudest, the pahes will smooth out the response so that you don't have those peaks and generally a flatter response.. A peak is not necessarily a good thing here...there are many different points that this could be... with your spread out setup it's going to be tough and even more tradeoffs... I would have(as I told you) put both subs under one of the 125's and simplified things considerably...corner loading is nice but then the tuning is difficult, with the subs together you get the 3db plus a boundary, and the simpler tuning plus single point omni directional bass...lo lo end phase cancellations, and comb filtering...
Yes he ( bill Fitz) also postulates that you should place the tops at 90 degrees like the subs..( IF AND ONLY IF YOU MUST! all speakers should be stacked vertically... I posed that question on the the Pro Sound Web and got FLAMED...by the speaker guru's there...ever wonder why EAW, NEXO, MARTIN, JBL, L Acoustic... to name a few DON\"T do this if it's the only way? He makes a good point but I have no where to test this...nor the time. This would pose some interesting rigging problems...and from what I gathered when my flame proof underwear quit smoking poses problems of their own...
We need to have the speakers in time before we correct the phase.
When the speakers are as far apart as yours are there could even be more points, and reflected energy and modes play a point in this... try a far corner, mic right in the corner where three boundaries meet... this is the only place in a room where it all comes together, and the modes and reflections have no distance to work with.
Bill has some interesting designs...We have built a few.. the Table tuba with the HL10a, and the auto tuba... they both rock like crazy... but the table tuba needs to be beefed up if your going to use the HL10a (baby labsub) the design is so forgiving it doesn't even have a plate over the speaker, and it can take an 8\" or 10\" speaker...
Oh BTW get your speakers here...
Loudspeakers Plus 847-963-0725 tell Jay I sent you...
Kevin I think your missing something here... 18's don't make the best subs... especially in horn loaded subs... Think of it this way...with the same motor structure(magnet and voice coil), an 18 is like having a Ferrari motor in a dump truck...a 10 \" like the HL10'a is like having a Ferrari motor in a ... Ferrari... how fast can you start and stop a dump truck? The bass will be tighter.. will go lower and be louder.. I know that sounds counter intuitive.. but consider this, Tom Danley uses absolutely NO 18's in anything! The 2 labsubs with 12\" drivers are equal to 4 dual 18\" drivers... thats 8, 18's... to even come close.. and the 12's go lower and sound way cleaner and have near zero distortion by comparison...I can't stand the sound of direct radiating subs... and the JBL 4719's are my least favorite out there...
gadget
When the speakers are as far apart as yours are there could even be more points, and reflected energy and modes play a point in this... try a far corner, mic right in the corner where three boundaries meet... this is the only place in a room where it all comes together, and the modes and reflections have no distance to work with.
We need to have the speakers in time before we correct the phase.
Gary,
I thank you for taking your time to explain timing and phase correction in more detail... It's much easier for me to achive a goal if I understand the reasoning behind it...:)
The 2 labsubs with 12" drivers are equal to 4 dual 18" drivers... thats 8, 18's... to even come close.. and the 12's go lower and sound way cleaner and have near zero distortion by comparison...I can't stand the sound of direct radiating subs...
I looked at the plans for the Lab Subwoofer and it looks like it would be allot fun and very challenging to build...
Believe me it's no easy task... the module is difficult at best.. has some really funky angles...but when completed...WOW they are BIG and HEAVY but the bass output is second to none... when finished these will run with the big dogs.. subwoofers like the EAW 949 super sub, it even surpassed the Bassmax B-0-, and B-1 were louder, cleaner ...and these are about $7000 per speaker... the LABsubs can be built for under $1000 per pair I'm not sure you know this but the LABsub was a project conceived on the Prosoundweb to let the little guy like you and I have access to a real pro level(touring) subwoofer...Tom Danley agreed to work with a team of design engineers on the PSW, Tom actually got Eminence to build the Lab12 just for this project..and the LABsub was born, and has created Quite a stir...As I have said with 6 labs we have realised 27 hz response and at a quarter of a mile away...outdoors...the IMPACT can be FELT...not just heard...indoors it will quiver your liver flap your pants, and blur your vision...it's bass like you never \"experienced\" before.
The Pi sub you provided a link to is esentially the LABsub with a cooling tube that runs to the plate that is the side cover...The thing here is to reduce the heat that is generated.. that heat actually reduces the magnets strength during the heating process.. the strength returns when the magnet cools.. it also reduces distortion...There is also a mod 4 which has some differences in the module and and there was talk of a driver with a shorting ring to decrease the distortion you can't hear further? I never could understand that....I built version 2 with the loped off top and bottom back corners for wheels, and handles...
Your entirely welcome Kevin, It's a pleasure helping out people who are obviously so thirsty for knowledge, and who listen, and learn, and then help pass this on to others. I have been a part of a Pro Audio community that has tried to foster education, and training in an effort to increase the quality of sound everywhere...There are selfish and hypocritical individuals in this industry like all others... but as a whole we, the Pro Audio people want to promote, and educate anyone who wishes to learn. If you haven't visited the PSW \"study hall\" do so... there's enough information there to keep you hungry minds going for some time...
I called Eminence today and spoke with one gentleman and he put through to another persons voice mail... Hopefully they will call me back... I'm going to ask him if I can visit their facility... I own a systems integration company so it would be pretty cool to check-out their process... They're located about 40 miles up the road in Eminence, KY...:)
You dog you... ... Oh BTW me too.. the blues! It's what I play...That band is awesome...the Guitar player was a session musician in Texas and played with the likes of Mississippi John Hurt, ZZ top, Muddy Waters...ya.. just him.. his guitar (70 Strat.. David Gilmore metallic blue even...) and a Fender Blues Deville 4X10...no floor NOTHING!
I have a few backline pieces too...32 guitars.. including Telecasters, Strats, Les Pauls, an ES 335 dot, an Emperor Joe Pass...Some Guild blond Acoustics (one thats at least 45 years old...) I also build them and repair them so...4 basses... one is a Fender American jazz deluxe... lots of amps including a Fender 1967 picture frame twin reverb with a 1x15 JBL and closed back ported.. ( a favorite of the blues players...) and a 1964 black faced bassman with the small piggyback cabinet (not the post CBS boat but the one with the Jensen alnico's...) the amp has the AB 763 chassis (same as the legendary 1959 fender black face bassman...) My main amp is a Johnson Millennium that is awesome!... and I have a Dean Markley signature series 60 all tube amp head... and the serial # is 001!
Of course I have the obligatory recording studio above my garage with a 7 piece Pearl kit on a riser and 16 track analog and digital recording setup to boot...Perhaps I'll send you a couple songs I helped co write and sing a fortnight ago...or so...
G
Hey have you ever seen a mosrite Acoustic \"black widow\" electric bass by Acoustic Control Corporation?... Semi Moseley supposedly made the last 200... That puppy is a big time collectors item today...
I have an Acoustic model 165 tube amp...the very same model that Frank Zappa played... It was a Mesa Boggie clone and came loaded with an EVM12L... I would like to restore the amp and put a EVM12L black label in it...
PS. I'm going to Eminence next week for a visit... They are closed on Fridays or I would have tried to go tomorrow...
For the past several weeks I have been doing lots of research on folded horn subs... I think I have checked-out every design on the web because all of my varient search strings started returning results of websites that I have already looked at... I had reached the end of the internet... I have read lots of articles including ones from the front runners like Dr. Bruce Edgar... I have studied numerous designs including the Klipsch Basshorn, the Adiare Tempest Basshorn, Tom Danely's LABsub, Wayne Parham's 12Pi basshorn sub, Bill Fitzmaurice's Tuba and Titan, stepped horns, bandpass horns, etc., etc... I learned a lot about horn loading techniques, the relevance of T/S parameters, cone structure, etc., etc... I learned the proper technique for calculating horn SPL and frequency response using the Hornresp software by David McBean (we've also corresponded a few times as well)...
I have poured countless hours into this research and I’ve still only scratched the surface… During my quest to learn all about basshorns I have stumbled on an awesome 40Hz folded horn design!... This horn is only about 1/3rd the size of the LABsub and it puts out some serious (about 145dB continuous SPL at 1 meter with 500W) SPLs!.. The only problem with this horn is there are only two LF transducers that can handle the front chamber compression and both drivers are made overseas (Italy and Thailand) and cost big $$$.$$ in the US…
I found my mission!... I've been working with another company on developing a new 12� driver for this horn and I expect to receive two samples for tryout within the next two weeks… I plan on building two units within the next four weeks and after some testing, modifications and tweaking I hope to market some flat packs, hardware, driver kits, and loaded bins…
Here is the predicted SPL response based on the preliminary parameters:
I love it! The student has become the teacher! Yes I did the same thing...researched and researched...dug and dug.. compared and tested listened and read...The Labsubs seem to be a very longthrow sub.. I wonder if those your building will be? I'm jealous of the fact you got to get the tour and all, but extremely proud of you my young padawan....
G
Yes,...I believe they will throw long and hard!... Once the first set has been completed and I have finished having a little fun with them I plan on shipping them up to you for \"a real endurance run\" and professional opinion...:)
Your not going to believe this!... Allen & Heath called today and told me that it was infact a bad power supply (had a low voltage on one buss) in the first Desk... They also emailed me a free 1-year extended warranty certificate!... This gives the replacement mixer a full 2-year warranty... Talk about a first class organization!!!
I highly recommend Allen & Heath!!!... RMC Audio is the place to get them!!!...
Thanks!
Kevin
PS. I'm not a share holder or affiliated with either company...:D
Most of the time and after painstaking thought at times...I "get" your humorus - brain teasing remarks...but today I'm totally at loss...unless your setting me up for a punch line?...:D
I still didn't get it so I asked for some expert advise (my wife)... She got it immediately of course (she's a lot more wittier than I)... An old asprin commercial?..:)
Soooo...here you go wise guy (and no cheating):
1) What was Freedman's profession?
2) What was Flagg’s occupation?
3) Who has a deformed hand?
4) Who said this \"Frank, it's after six, you can stop being snotty!\"
5) What was BJ's wife name?
6) What did Blake's and Potter's wives have in common?
1) Sidney was a shrink.
2) Was he the CID? guy that couldn't be put under without another one present?
3) Captain Hook? (No idea)
4) Henry Blake?
5) Peg?
6) Mildred?
Comments
Criteria: Loads of tight thumping, chest pounding, earthmoving bass!...:)
Wow!...I really like the Fane 200 liter cabinet plan for Colossus 18B, 18XB, and 18B-600... I love the simplicity of it!... The 18B is 400w, and the 18XB and 18B-600 are 600w... I would like to build a dual cab with two 18\" cone drivers.. The Fane literatue mentions that the 18B-600 is intended for multi-way and the 18XB is for singly or multi-way... It's difficult for me \"being old school\" to accept horns for BASS... Do you think the EP2500 would drive two of the 18XBs efficiently and effectively or should I limit to the 18B (400w)?... Here are some calculations based on the speaker's \"continuous ratings\": 600w X 2 X 1.25 = 1500w or 400w X 2 X 1.25 = 1000w. The EP2500 is \"supposed\" to put-out 2400w at 4-ohms in bridge-mono but I have learned from you guys that this low-end stuff consumes a lot more POWER...
Steely Dan?...:)
Kevin
As for the Fanes.. I think they blow the EV speakers off the planet! The cabs are small and easy to construct, and you can stack'em up like building blocks for some really impressive low end... Get the XB... that cab is also quite light weight.. bass you can pick up and carry at the end of the day...the box is driver friendly and I have used the less expensive (about half) Omega 18 by Eminence. These could easily be made into a dual 18 with the added bonus of one less panel to cut out...I have a group that uses a pair and have for years using the RMX 2450 as an amp.. in bridged mono of course..
I also have some plans for (I have built about 16 of these and they are proven workhorses...) an EV S181 knockoff using... again the Eminence Omega 18's.. also a forgiving design and a ~quasi~ horn speaker thats easy to build, and light weight.
I know you have heard this guys.. TOO MUCH POWER IS NEVER ENOUGH!
Rock on dudes!
G
If I built a dual driver unit I would basically stick with the plan,...but cut the side, front, and rear panels twice as long with only one panel inside for separating/isolating the two speaker compartments?... Or is it better to stack two cubes?...
Kevin
As you already know we took an old network rack Wal-Mart left behind and converted it to an amp rack... We installed lexan doors with locks to keep curious hands out… We have four dedicated 120VAC/20AMP circuits for the equipment and two UPS (on bottom shelf) for processing... There's about an 1\" of space between the amps and they run cool as a cucumber... We also snatched a large receptionist booth that was donated to the church and converted it to a sound booth... We installed six floor boxes in the stage with five XLR receptacles, one speak-on, and one 120VAC receptacle in each... I've been waiting for Youth Area to be entirely completed before posting more pictures, but I now realize it will always be a work in progress... Here are some recent pics to date:
Kevin
That install is super nice. I hate you.
Dra
Hello Dra,
Thank you!... It's funny that you mention aiming the sub at the corner... There was a guy that recommended something similar (to someone else) on another forum...and man he got blasted!!!
If I try it...I'll keep it a secret and PM you the result...:)
Kevin
I forgot to mention...after additional research I discovered the secrets to getting \"chest pounding\" \"earthmoving\" BASS!!!
Kevin
Ok, give, what's the secret.
Dra
Just for you...I will share this invaluable information:
For \"chest pounding\" bass: Catch bass...lay down quickly and place fish on chest...
For \"earthmoving\" bass: Take stringer of bass along while back-hoeing or bulldozing...
I would (if you were going to build the Fanes.. eliminate the double center...
well it's off to the races...
G
I emailed Bill and asked him about the possibility of building a TUBA 36 with one Fane COL18XB... I like the power rating and usable frequency range of the Fane... Available power (1500w @ 8-ohms, 2400w @ 4-ohms) is going to be the deciding factor...
I just read here that a 18\" driver is not a good idea for a horn...:)
Kevin
I found this info on Bill's site...:)
I wonder if the same would apply to a commercial loaded, direct radiator type?...
Kevin
Back to phase correction: If my mains and subs were "in phase" at the crossover point wouldn't it be the loudest?... In other words if I put up a tone at the crossover point and swept the phase on the sub...would the SUM of the two (sub and main) be loudest when the phase is correct?...
If this is true...here's the next question: Would it be better to get the phase correct between the two before the timing...or vise versa?...:)
Another question: While I was sweeping the delay I noticed two points 4-6ft and 12-14ft (I think) where I was getting similar results?... I used the 4-6ft values because I thought that maybe the 12-14ft values could have been from the reverberant surfaces?... Have you seen this before?...
Kevin
Yes he ( bill Fitz) also postulates that you should place the tops at 90 degrees like the subs..( IF AND ONLY IF YOU MUST! all speakers should be stacked vertically... I posed that question on the the Pro Sound Web and got FLAMED...by the speaker guru's there...ever wonder why EAW, NEXO, MARTIN, JBL, L Acoustic... to name a few DON\"T do this if it's the only way? He makes a good point but I have no where to test this...nor the time. This would pose some interesting rigging problems...and from what I gathered when my flame proof underwear quit smoking poses problems of their own...
We need to have the speakers in time before we correct the phase.
When the speakers are as far apart as yours are there could even be more points, and reflected energy and modes play a point in this... try a far corner, mic right in the corner where three boundaries meet... this is the only place in a room where it all comes together, and the modes and reflections have no distance to work with.
Bill has some interesting designs...We have built a few.. the Table tuba with the HL10a, and the auto tuba... they both rock like crazy... but the table tuba needs to be beefed up if your going to use the HL10a (baby labsub) the design is so forgiving it doesn't even have a plate over the speaker, and it can take an 8\" or 10\" speaker...
Oh BTW get your speakers here...
Loudspeakers Plus 847-963-0725 tell Jay I sent you...
Kevin I think your missing something here... 18's don't make the best subs... especially in horn loaded subs... Think of it this way...with the same motor structure(magnet and voice coil), an 18 is like having a Ferrari motor in a dump truck...a 10 \" like the HL10'a is like having a Ferrari motor in a ... Ferrari... how fast can you start and stop a dump truck? The bass will be tighter.. will go lower and be louder.. I know that sounds counter intuitive.. but consider this, Tom Danley uses absolutely NO 18's in anything! The 2 labsubs with 12\" drivers are equal to 4 dual 18\" drivers... thats 8, 18's... to even come close.. and the 12's go lower and sound way cleaner and have near zero distortion by comparison...I can't stand the sound of direct radiating subs... and the JBL 4719's are my least favorite out there...
gadget
If you want some interesting reading click here!...
Kevin
I thank you for taking your time to explain timing and phase correction in more detail... It's much easier for me to achive a goal if I understand the reasoning behind it...:)
I looked at the plans for the Lab Subwoofer and it looks like it would be allot fun and very challenging to build...
Kevin
The Pi sub you provided a link to is esentially the LABsub with a cooling tube that runs to the plate that is the side cover...The thing here is to reduce the heat that is generated.. that heat actually reduces the magnets strength during the heating process.. the strength returns when the magnet cools.. it also reduces distortion...There is also a mod 4 which has some differences in the module and and there was talk of a driver with a shorting ring to decrease the distortion you can't hear further? I never could understand that....I built version 2 with the loped off top and bottom back corners for wheels, and handles...
Your entirely welcome Kevin, It's a pleasure helping out people who are obviously so thirsty for knowledge, and who listen, and learn, and then help pass this on to others. I have been a part of a Pro Audio community that has tried to foster education, and training in an effort to increase the quality of sound everywhere...There are selfish and hypocritical individuals in this industry like all others... but as a whole we, the Pro Audio people want to promote, and educate anyone who wishes to learn. If you haven't visited the PSW \"study hall\" do so... there's enough information there to keep you hungry minds going for some time...
Be well all..
Big G [/i]
I called Eminence today and spoke with one gentleman and he put through to another persons voice mail... Hopefully they will call me back... I'm going to ask him if I can visit their facility... I own a systems integration company so it would be pretty cool to check-out their process... They're located about 40 miles up the road in Eminence, KY...:)
Kevin
I have a few backline pieces too...32 guitars.. including Telecasters, Strats, Les Pauls, an ES 335 dot, an Emperor Joe Pass...Some Guild blond Acoustics (one thats at least 45 years old...) I also build them and repair them so...4 basses... one is a Fender American jazz deluxe... lots of amps including a Fender 1967 picture frame twin reverb with a 1x15 JBL and closed back ported.. ( a favorite of the blues players...) and a 1964 black faced bassman with the small piggyback cabinet (not the post CBS boat but the one with the Jensen alnico's...) the amp has the AB 763 chassis (same as the legendary 1959 fender black face bassman...) My main amp is a Johnson Millennium that is awesome!... and I have a Dean Markley signature series 60 all tube amp head... and the serial # is 001!
Of course I have the obligatory recording studio above my garage with a 7 piece Pearl kit on a riser and 16 track analog and digital recording setup to boot...Perhaps I'll send you a couple songs I helped co write and sing a fortnight ago...or so...
G
Hey have you ever seen a mosrite Acoustic \"black widow\" electric bass by Acoustic Control Corporation?... Semi Moseley supposedly made the last 200... That puppy is a big time collectors item today...
I have an Acoustic model 165 tube amp...the very same model that Frank Zappa played... It was a Mesa Boggie clone and came loaded with an EVM12L... I would like to restore the amp and put a EVM12L black label in it...
PS. I'm going to Eminence next week for a visit... They are closed on Fridays or I would have tried to go tomorrow...
Kevin
For the past several weeks I have been doing lots of research on folded horn subs... I think I have checked-out every design on the web because all of my varient search strings started returning results of websites that I have already looked at... I had reached the end of the internet... I have read lots of articles including ones from the front runners like Dr. Bruce Edgar... I have studied numerous designs including the Klipsch Basshorn, the Adiare Tempest Basshorn, Tom Danely's LABsub, Wayne Parham's 12Pi basshorn sub, Bill Fitzmaurice's Tuba and Titan, stepped horns, bandpass horns, etc., etc... I learned a lot about horn loading techniques, the relevance of T/S parameters, cone structure, etc., etc... I learned the proper technique for calculating horn SPL and frequency response using the Hornresp software by David McBean (we've also corresponded a few times as well)...
I have poured countless hours into this research and I’ve still only scratched the surface… During my quest to learn all about basshorns I have stumbled on an awesome 40Hz folded horn design!... This horn is only about 1/3rd the size of the LABsub and it puts out some serious (about 145dB continuous SPL at 1 meter with 500W) SPLs!.. The only problem with this horn is there are only two LF transducers that can handle the front chamber compression and both drivers are made overseas (Italy and Thailand) and cost big $$$.$$ in the US…
I found my mission!... I've been working with another company on developing a new 12� driver for this horn and I expect to receive two samples for tryout within the next two weeks… I plan on building two units within the next four weeks and after some testing, modifications and tweaking I hope to market some flat packs, hardware, driver kits, and loaded bins…
Here is the predicted SPL response based on the preliminary parameters:
[img]http://www.teamaai.net\\kevin\\NewDriverY.gif[/img]
Anyways,…I thought I'd let you know what I’ve been up to…:D
Gadget,...see what you've done!... You have created a MONSTER!... :twisted:
Kevin
G
Yes,...I believe they will throw long and hard!... Once the first set has been completed and I have finished having a little fun with them I plan on shipping them up to you for \"a real endurance run\" and professional opinion...:)
Kevin
Your not going to believe this!... Allen & Heath called today and told me that it was infact a bad power supply (had a low voltage on one buss) in the first Desk... They also emailed me a free 1-year extended warranty certificate!... This gives the replacement mixer a full 2-year warranty... Talk about a first class organization!!!
I highly recommend Allen & Heath!!!... RMC Audio is the place to get them!!!...
Thanks!
Kevin
PS. I'm not a share holder or affiliated with either company...:D
DRA
Most of the time and after painstaking thought at times...I "get" your humorus - brain teasing remarks...but today I'm totally at loss...unless your setting me up for a punch line?...:D
Kevin
But you paly one on TV.
\"I'm not a doctor... but I play one on TV.\"
Sorry.
DRA
I still didn't get it so I asked for some expert advise (my wife)... She got it immediately of course (she's a lot more wittier than I)... An old asprin commercial?..:)
Soooo...here you go wise guy (and no cheating):
1) What was Freedman's profession?
2) What was Flagg’s occupation?
3) Who has a deformed hand?
4) Who said this \"Frank, it's after six, you can stop being snotty!\"
5) What was BJ's wife name?
6) What did Blake's and Potter's wives have in common?
Kevin
1) Sidney was a shrink.
2) Was he the CID? guy that couldn't be put under without another one present?
3) Captain Hook? (No idea)
4) Henry Blake?
5) Peg?
6) Mildred?
No cheating I promise. How'd I do?
DRA